300 RUM barrel life

I shot that group with some custom Nosler loads, so I have no idea what powder they are using, but it was loaded with their 180 gr Ballistic Tips - their 165 gr Ballistic Tips shoot almost as well in my rifle. I let my barrel cool down after every round to shoot that group and I never shoot more than 3 rounds before letting it cool enough that I can hold the barrel without being burned. Plus, I clean religiously and often - and as often as practical if I'm out on a hunt.

If I can ever find components to reload again, my favorite recipe is straight out of the Nosler Manual and it delivers 3250 fps w/180 gr Speer Ballistic Tips.
 
I shot that group with some custom Nosler loads, so I have no idea what powder they are using, but it was loaded with their 180 gr Ballistic Tips - their 165 gr Ballistic Tips shoot almost as well in my rifle. I let my barrel cool down after every round to shoot that group and I never shoot more than 3 rounds before letting it cool enough that I can hold the barrel without being burned. Plus, I clean religiously and often - and as often as practical if I'm out on a hunt.

If I can ever find components to reload again, my favorite recipe is straight out of the Nosler Manual and it delivers 3250 fps w/180 gr Speer Ballistic Tips.

3250 for 180 gr bullets would be what I call a mild load. That will definitely extend your barrel life. I was shooting 180's @ 3400 plus. I'm fairly sure the Nosler custom loads would have been mild also.
 
I wasn't even aware that Speer made ballistic tips? 3250fps is mild by most RUM Standards & may prove the reason behind the rifle in question getting better than a 50% gain in throat/bbl life. 1000rnds has pretty much been the bench mark for a WELL taken care of 300 RUM & far less if shot like a 308 :rolleyes:

BTW- I think we set a record for resurrected threads :D 7 yrs old before the recent posts, not bad. But, the info is still relevent & the conversation intriguing, march on! :cool:


t
 
That is a smoking good price. Have you read anything about cleaning the bore after that process takes place? Several people are stating that you have to clean the snot out of them before shooting them.


t
 
Yup, I've heard and read that the process will leave some "fuzz" in the bore. My smith said I should scrub it good with JB when I get it back.


That's exactly what I've read also, basically scrub it until your arms goes numb & repeat :D

Now hurry up & get those rifles done would ya? :rolleyes:


t
 
H&M

H&M Metal Processing: What is Black Nitride?

I called the other day and found out they have a $200 minimum but they will do up to 2-3 barrels and actions for that. And I have 3 barreled actions to send them soon. Great deal!


This is interesting! What components would one have 'treated?' Would that be just the barrel, lug, receiver, and the bolt body? Or would one also treat the smaller parts too? ie; bolt stop lever and the remaining bolt parts?
 
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This is interesting! What components would one have 'treated?' Would that be just the barrel, lug, receiver, and the bolt body? Or would one also treat the smaller parts too? ie; bolt stop lever and the remaining bolt parts?

Any steel parts including trigger. No springs, everything must be disassembled including bolts and bolt stops. I will get everything done except the triggers.
 
This is interesting! What components would one have 'treated?' Would that be just the barrel, lug, receiver, and the bolt body? Or would one also treat the smaller parts too? ie; bolt stop lever and the remaining bolt parts?


For me personally, it would be nothing but the barrel. I don't see any reason to do other parts. That's not to say that doing the barreled action isn't beneficial, what I am saying is that altering specifically engineered parts of the action scares the crap out of me :)

Those parts were designed that way for a reason & I don't know if the increased hardness will negatively affect them. Some action manufacturers will void your warranty if you treat their equipment, some don't care.


t
 
For me personally, it would be nothing but the barrel. I don't see any reason to do other parts. That's not to say that doing the barreled action isn't beneficial, what I am saying is that altering specifically engineered parts of the action scares the crap out of me :)

Those parts were designed that way for a reason & I don't know if the increased hardness will negatively affect them. Some action manufacturers will void your warranty if you treat their equipment, some don't care.


t

Good points and here's my answers. My smith has had a few of these done and hasn't had any issues with actions, bolts, etc. MMI Trutec uses a higher temp process than H&M and will not do some actions. H&M will do any steel guns parts and has been doing them for quite awhile. The reasons I'm doing the other parts is to match the finish which is very nice and about bullet proof. It will not ever wear off and you are not likely to ever scratch or scuff it. And it is extremely corrosion resistant. It also makes for a silky smooth bolt.

I'm not concerned about the warranties on my Rem and Vanguard actions and they probably went out the window when my smiths put them on the lathe. Snowy Mountian didn't seemed to be concerned when I talked with them about a full custom build and nitriding it.
 
Thanks MontanaRifleman & Outlaw6.0

I'm going to read into this Blacknitride finishing a little bit more but I think I woud have the external parts done except the triggers.

Do you know if this is this an opaque finish such as black parkerizing or is it more transparent ... like some color anodizing I've seen. I ask this because this might just be a way out of a problem I created last Fall. The short story is I dramatically changed the cosmetic appearance of my wife's rifle. And the metal finish is the last thing in need of repair.


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