270 zero?

Montanasloth

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I just recently rescoped my 270 win and I will be getting the scoped sighted in this weekend. I was wondering if anyone had a good idea for what I should zero at... I usually go 1' at 100 yards giving me close to a 200 yard zero? The rifle is a ruger m77 mark II now topped with a leupold vx-2 3-9X40 with a duplex. I've thought about a 300 zero but i'm not sure.. any help would be appreciated.
 
Develop a dope sheet with a zero at 100, 200, and 300 yards. See where your .270 registers at each intermediate range. That'll tell you where to fix your zero aim point for a kill shot without a lot of unnecessary vertical adjustment while in the field.
It is possible with a duplex reticla to employ Mil or MOA factors if you work out the relative distances between the center cross hairs and the edge of the enlarged outer portion of the reticle at a fixed power setting and you can use that, along with your dope, to calculate site adjustments on target quickly when that perfect profile shot presents itself.
Good Luck with your hunt ...............
 
I just recently rescoped my 270 win and I will be getting the scoped sighted in this weekend. I was wondering if anyone had a good idea for what I should zero at... I usually go 1' at 100 yards giving me close to a 200 yard zero? The rifle is a ruger m77 mark II now topped with a leupold vx-2 3-9X40 with a duplex. I've thought about a 300 zero but i'm not sure.. any help would be appreciated.

Take your pick, as long as you know your drops at varying distances. I personally just sight in exactly zero at 100 yards and dial as required to develop my drop chart.
 
A drop chart will be in the works after this hunting season. My plan is to start reloading this winter/spring. I dropped the ball on that this summer.
 
2-2.5 inches high at 100 yards. You can still shoot thru holes in timber or head shoot out to 200 yards. 4-6 inches low at 300 yards for a no brain power 300 yard chest shot, and a 16"ish hold over at 400 yards.
Shoot and validate your drops and enjoy hunting season! The drop chart takes no time to create in a shooting session and is most valuable during hunting season not afterwards.
 
Personally, all of my deer rifles, and I have several, all get sighted in with an 8" MPBR (Maximum Point Blank Range). The idea is that the trajectory will not rise or fall more than 4" throughout it's travel. Point Blank ballistics program is free, but you need the velocity for it to be accurate.
With the 270 and a 130gr bullet, a good zero is 2" high at 100yrds, 150gr bullet is 2.5" high at 100yrds.
I prefer a MPBR of more than 300yrds, but I know my trajectories by heart and follow this to the letter, low holds are required inside of 100yrds on smaller game, which I have been caught out on in the past. It's just a matter of learning to trust and test the trajectory.

Cheers.
gun)
 
Personally, all of my deer rifles, and I have several, all get sighted in with an 8" MPBR (Maximum Point Blank Range). The idea is that the trajectory will not rise or fall more than 4" throughout it's travel. Point Blank ballistics program is free, but you need the velocity for it to be accurate.
With the 270 and a 130gr bullet, a good zero is 2" high at 100yrds, 150gr bullet is 2.5" high at 100yrds.
I prefer a MPBR of more than 300yrds, but I know my trajectories by heart and follow this to the letter, low holds are required inside of 100yrds on smaller game, which I have been caught out on in the past. It's just a matter of learning to trust and test the trajectory.

Cheers.
gun)

+100

the only thing I do differently is use a 6" killzone since I hunt mainly deer... You can always pull up or dial a few clicks, but when you skim over the back often you don't get a second chance at a good kill shot... they are close enough to hear the shot and sense your presence.
 
Thanks for all the replies guys. Some things to definitely consider. Didn't make it out last weekend as it was to windy, going out on Sunday and hopefully I can use the information you have shared.
 
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