OK, we know that some of the problem was in the scope mount group because you could move the mounts after you removed the scope.
Now that we have that corrected and all mechanical connections are sound (action bedded and torqued, barrel free float verified, etc., let's look at what you have.
Next thing I'd like to know is how large those little red targets are and how far away you were when taking those shots. Are you setting the rifle up on the bench, sand bags, rest (what type), butt bag, sled, etc.. Next, are you relying on free recoil or do you have some shoulder pressure in the hold - if so, how much. Where is your free hand (the one not on the trigger) when you fire each round.
Is your purchase at the shoulder the same with each shot or are you holding it higher/lower in your shoulder. What's the pull weight on the trigger and is a single or two stage trigger. Assuming you're using a proven reload that you are absolutely certain has printed on target with consistent accuracy in the past, we can stay away from possible reload inconsistencies. If not, we'll need to look at load variations, seating depth, neck tension, and stuff like that
What I see in your targets is very often attributable to rear bag influences or, in the absence of a rear bag (butt bag) shoulder hold inconsistencies. It could also be breath control.
Incidentally, when used properly the JB Weld applied in bedding the rail (when done correctly) remains with the rail. It can be chipped away - with some difficult - if you ever need to do that - but the idea is to fit the rail properly to the action and leave it there. It is not to take it off and put it on some other rifle. I don't use lok-tite. Had some bad experiences with it where removal of screws at a later date became a problem. If I use it at all I usually just put a drop just under the head of the screw (using a stick pin) before it seats. I don't use it on threads.
