22-250 build help

gun) Try fast twist with 40 gr V-Max or 52 A-Max bullets. I have used my 1-9 twist in 22-243 A.I. with 40's up to 4800 fps and they rip the heck out of a PD. I would go 1-10 with short throat and have some fun.
Years ago SSS Fred Moore told me at that time he didn't think you could over rotate a bullet. Well you can these new bullets, the 40 V-Max. Because now my same rifle with the 1-9 will spin bullets at 4800 and they don't stay together anymore. Also the 30 V-Max always blew up at 5200 fps......Now I can on spin them around 4400 fps otherwise they split into 2 impact points or just leave a silver grey cloud.

I cranked up the 36 gr Barnes Varmint Grenades in the 220 Wilson Arrow to a tad over 4700 fps using ADI's AR2206H powder (I think the USA equivalent is Hodgdon H4895) and they held together and still shot a tidy group. That is with a 1 -14 twist though.
 
I cranked up the 36 gr Barnes Varmint Grenades in the 220 Wilson Arrow to a tad over 4700 fps using ADI's AR2206H powder (I think the USA equivalent is Hodgdon H4895) and they held together and still shot a tidy group. That is with a 1 -14 twist though.


We gave up on the 36 gr Barnes Grenade bullets. At 200-250 yds they would hit aim point one time and then drift to the right or left next time, our kill ratio went down so far we quit shooting them. Both in 1-12 Savage 22-250 Howa 22-250 also 1-12 and my 1-14 twist.
 
If there is one thing I have learned about the 22-250 after owning 5 different rifles in this caliber is that you can't go wrong they almost all shoot especially if you reload. I shoot 55 gr bullets most the time but wether its my Kimberly, Remmington, weatherby or savage. It is the one caliber that always shoots tight groups
 
i second what vulpes vulpes said.. once my stock barrel gives out i would rebarrel it with a 1:9 or 1:8 so i can shoot those 70-90 grs...better for those longer distances. contour wise i like the wight my gun has right now so a rem varmint contour would do, and length wise 26" not too long nor too short.
 
Ok well iv been busy with work and what not I couldn't reply but iv also been doing research I have found that I can get a 26" Douglas barrel for $283 that's a heavy barrel with what ever twist I want which is gonna be 1 in 12" twist and its the factory remington contour witch is nice on fitting into my stock but I ain't going with the ackley improved just yet but I will eventually now should I flute the barrel and put a muzzle brake on it just for looks and to let my buddies know the gun went off lol

Paredneck Go with the AI it takes time to fireform those cases but after you do all you will need to do is bump the shoulder and neck size them. If your not set up for reloading yet you can purchase factory 22-250 ammo and shoot it in your Ackley. Surprisingly during the fireforming you will probably get some of the best accuracy out of your barrel. This has been the case with 3 of my 4 Ackley guns.
 
Several comments were made of shooting deer.
here in michigan I've killed over 30 deer with my old remy 788 22-250 using standard psp bullets at 150 yrds or less.

To make a better deer gun I would either try 60 gr nosler partitions or the 50 gr barnes ttsx. Unless you go fast twist then try the 75 gr berger vlds.

Range is hard to say without trigger time.
 
One of the reasons I bought my 22-250 Ruger American was its 1in 9 inch twist, allowing me to shoot heavier bullets.

That rifle just has everything it needs and nothing it doesn't.
 
I've got nothing useful to add but it seems spring has (kind of) sprung and I was thinking about this project this AM before I saw the thread.

I'm in the process of building a switch barrel 700, but in sporter weight. We need an easily portable .22-250 or equiv. to keep in the truck or tractor and carry when checking crops, fence, etc. The VLS is too heavy for our needs as we are probably carrying tools and such as well. Time for it to go. We really don't need the .270/.280/'06's for this work either. Getting more than a couple shots at a time is rare, we generally arn't there to hunt but want a rifle handy if a shot presents itself. I have an older production Douglas 1-12 twist #3 contour blank that I'll likely use, because I have it. Our shots are generally limited to 400 yds and we have some wind, but not like you folks in the open ground out west where it never stops. I'll likely go with standard vs. Ackley configuration but will order a PPG reamer with minimum SAAMI body and a no-turn or at least minimum neck. I have an older Clymer solid pilot reamer but I think I'll spring for the PPG for this barrel. The other barrel will be a #3 in 7MM-08 for use during deer season as we can't use a .22 cal. in our state for deer. I don't think I need the full thickness so I'm thinking, for better appearance on a sporter, I'll slim down a Tubb lug a bit on the surface grinder and pin it. For some years, I've stiffened Tupperware stocks with an aluminum rail bedded from forearm to recoil lug. It's not a McMillian, but better than it was and will do until I know I like the rig and can afford a better stock. Guess I ought to get started, just looked out the window and there are a couple ground hogs in the fence row that need attention.
 
The reamer is ALL-important. A perfectly aligned (centered) reamer is the absolute key to accuracy, assuming that the barrrel is a good one. Get the best reamer you can afford and the best gunsmith to do it. I don't care if you're a good machinist, a great reamer job is paramount and an experienced 'smith is worth it. A 'smith who does a lot of benchrest rifles is what you want.

Absolute minimum SAMMI specs, as you stated, is the goal for the reamer & chamber. This still permits shooting factory ammo if you want to but will not let it slop around in a loose chamber. Then the fired brass that is neck re-sized will be your most accurate ammo.

As for bullets, I'd say that sorting them by weight is far more important than sorting by bullet runout. Use the odd bullets that don't fall within your weight spec for practice.

Case prep should be meticulous, beginning with de-burring the inside of the flash hole.

With all that and a good scope you'll be shooting flies on the targets.
 
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