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22-250 brass has issues chambering

I've always just (on a 550) pulled handle until it's cammed over and screw the die down until it touches then tighten the die. I do it the same on all rifle brass (AR's and BA's). Just what's always works for me and the dies I use (mostly Redding).
 
I've always just (on a 550) pulled handle until it's cammed over and screw the die down until it touches then tighten the die. I do it the same on all rifle brass (AR's and BA's). Just what's always works for me and the dies I use (mostly Redding).
Following this as, That all works well for me Until I get to the 22-250 I have turret heads and am not always setting up to load. I run them through a cartridge chamber gauge, some still chamber hard and some go easy. One round I still have not totally figured out. I also use Redding dies.
 
I have actually had some that I had run through the die several times trying to get it to flush out correctly in my case gauge and they never would, not exactly sure why but I want to believe that I need a thinner shellholder so that my die goes further down.
It's either that or maybe the brass is springing back.
I have been putting those in a separate pile for a run through the annealer to see if that changes things
 
Cases with large taper profiles elongate from base to shoulder long before the die even touches the shoulder, it's just how it is. Although I still have a standard 22-250, I often use my AI instead on nights when I know I'll be shooting quite a few rounds, it's just easier to size.

Cheers.
 
Getting an accurate measurement to see how much you're bumping the shoulder is step one. Your looking for 2-3 thousandths of bump.

If your not getting that with the press cammed over then you can file down the top of a shell holder.

You could also be over sizing and creating a bulge somewhere so once again measure to be sure this isn't the case.

Could also be the expander ball (not sure if you're using one or not) dragging hard and pulling up on the neck as it goes thru. You can set bump with the expander ball pulled to make sure this isn't happening or lube the inside of the necks a little bit.
 
Following this as, That all works well for me Until I get to the 22-250 I have turret heads and am not always setting up to load. I run them through a cartridge chamber gauge, some still chamber hard and some go easy. One round I still have not totally figured out. I also use Redding dies.
I wonder if the 220swift is as bad due to case taper?
 
I had some cases that were not being sufficiently resized, even if I cam over on the press. I tried to file the shell holder, but the file didn't cut the shell holder steel. I took it to a sanding disc with emery paper, and managed to take off a very little bit. That did the trick.

DON"T take off much -- that shell holder takes a lot of pressure on the up stroke.

Let us know how this turns out.
 
I have a Remington 300 RUM that a Hornady die 90% of the time and a RCBS die 40% of the time wouldn't sufficiently resize the brass so it chambered effortlessly. I ended up with a LEE 300 RUM die and my clambering problems disappeared.. YMMV...
 
I have a Remington 300 RUM that a Hornady die 90% of the time and a RCBS die 40% of the time wouldn't sufficiently resize the brass so it chambered effortlessly. I ended up with a LEE 300 RUM die and my clambering problems disappeared.. YMMV...
I have definitely noticed over the years that different brand dies are different.
I have a set of old Texan 243 dies that resize my brass better than my rcbs,lee, and Hornady do
 
Need some opinions on what to do. In my grandpa's 22-250, which is a Christensen arms ridgeline, when I go to chamber one of the brass it takes a lot of pressure to get the bolt to close and also hard once I fire. I've been full sizing with a hornady die which I know isn't everyone's favorite but it's worked good for me, what should I do next? Do I need to bump the shoulder back and if so how exactly do I do that? Haven't really run into this exact on this 22-250. Thanks.
Try using a neck sizer on it and see if it helps.
 
Need some opinions on what to do. In my grandpa's 22-250, which is a Christensen arms ridgeline, when I go to chamber one of the brass it takes a lot of pressure to get the bolt to close and also hard once I fire. I've been full sizing with a hornady die which I know isn't everyone's favorite but it's worked good for me, what should I do next? Do I need to bump the shoulder back and if so how exactly do I do that? Haven't really run into this exact on this 22-250. Thanks.
If you can find a machinist Square and a un ground tool steel bit say 3/8" X 3/8". Put the tool steel bit on the bolt face 3/8" side and slide the square to the tool steel along the bolt body to check if the bolt face is out of square. This happened to me on a rifle that I build for my brother.
You should have seen the face of the gun shop owners face drop when I showed them how out of square the bolt face was cut. roughly 1/16" in 2.5 inches. I was told just before doing that that bolt faces never get cut off.
 
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