200 Gr. Eld-x 300WM Reloading

[Steves1911]

Mine shot the factory loaded 200gr eldx into 3/4" groups at 100yds. Will be rolling my own after hunting season is over with h1000 and rl26.

 

[Jpron]

One more question. Which win primer were you using

Not sure of the number but it's the magnum

 

[Deleted member 112929]

Not sure of the number but it's the magnum

Okay that's good because as you can see here the powder can says one thing and the hodgdon web sight says another not only on the primer used but the powder charge. Scary to see these differences and makes you wonder what you should believe. You can get a better read of the powder label here - https://www.runnings.com/hodgdon-h1000-extreme-rifle-powder-1-lb-10001.html?v=2020.10.07

 

[Steves1911]

Data on 300 win varies a large bit depending where you look. I'm running 77.5gr h1000 with the 200gr gameking 77.8 with the 200gr accubond and 77.8gr with the 208eldm. This is all in fireformed brass that was bump sized seated long coal 3.56 or there about. I didn't see pressure signs with the 208gr untill 78.3 gr.

 

[Deleted member 112929]

Data on 300 win varies a large bit depending where you look. I'm running 77.5gr h1000 with the 200gr gameking 77.8 with the 200gr accubond and 77.8gr with the 208eldm. This is all in fireformed brass that was bump sized seated long coal 3.56 or there about. I didn't see pressure signs with the 208gr untill 78.3 gr.

Yes, I will be using a COL of 3.340 and a Hornady 200 gr ELD-X to replicate factory off the shelf ammo. By doing so I can get the gun to shoot as good as it can without doing what many of the PRS shooters do in prep for a match. All I really want to do is replicate factory velocity and performance and concentrate on my skill levels. It's no problem for me to stick five in a nickel are 100 yards but I need to stick five in a dime or better year a 3/8" cluster at 100 yards using my own reloads which again I need to ensure are at least factory match ammo quality. Once I do that then we will move onto 200, 300, 400, 500 and 1000 yards and see how we can do. Take a look at this. Run your cursor over the data printed on this label and note the powder charge and primer used. This makes me again wonder who and what to believe. Are they stating this to be factory load - https://www.runnings.com/hodgdon-h1000-extreme-rifle-powder-1-lb-10001.html?v=2020.10.07

 

[codyadams]

Yes, I will be using a COL of 3.340 and a Hornady 200 gr ELD-X to replicate factory off the shelf ammo. By doing so I can get the gun to shoot as good as it can without doing what many of the PRS shooters do in prep for a match. All I really want to do is replicate factory velocity and performance and concentrate on my skill levels. It's no problem for me to stick five in a nickel are 100 yards but I need to stick five in a dime or better year a 3/8" cluster at 100 yards using my own reloads which again I need to ensure are at least factory match ammo quality. Once I do that then we will move onto 200, 300, 400, 500 and 1000 yards and see how we can do. Take a look at this. Run your cursor over the data printed on this label and note the powder charge and primer used. This makes me again wonder who and what to believe. Are they stating this to be factory load - https://www.runnings.com/hodgdon-h1000-extreme-rifle-powder-1-lb-10001.html?v=2020.10.07

If your reloading it's important to understand how to read your own pressure signs. Data is going to vary from different manufacturers, I have seen data in reloading books many times that would lock up certain guns and is well under max pressure in others. So don't get all wrapped around the axle on reloading data varying, it is going to. Learn to read pressure signs and always start low. DO NOT just load up what some random guy on this or any other site tells you and go shoot it, that is a good way to mess up your rifle or worse. Learn how to read pressure, and always work up starting low, and if you can, make sure you have a device to tell you your velocity, as velocity can be a pretty good indicator of pressure when combined with pressure signs and knowledge of your components.

And to your final question there, no, those are not factory loads. If you look just below, you will see it says "maximum loads, do not exceed."

 

[Deleted member 112929]

If your reloading it's important to understand how to read your own pressure signs. Data is going to vary from different manufacturers, I have seen data in reloading books many times that would lock up certain guns and is well under max pressure in others. So don't get all wrapped around the axle on reloading data varying, it is going to. Learn to read pressure signs and always start low. DO NOT just load up what some random guy on this or any other site tells you and go shoot it, that is a good way to mess up your rifle or worse. Learn how to read pressure, and always work up starting low, and if you can, make sure you have a device to tell you your velocity, as velocity can be a pretty good indicator of pressure when combined with pressure signs and knowledge of your components.

And to your final question there, no, those are not factory loads. If you look just below, you will see it says "maximum loads, do not exceed."

Yes I did see that and then I saw the h1000 low end charge of 74 gr to yield ~2,725 FPS. Then I looked up what factory velocity was and that's ~ 2,850. I then looked at the h1000 max load of ~ 2,883. So to me the 2,850 FPS falls somewhere between 74 gr and 79 gr taking a wild guess of ~ 76 gr of h1000 being the factory speed. Then I looked back into earlier post and saw this ( see picture below ) and noticed he was shooting the very same bullet I want to in the same length bbl weapons and got great results. What's your take on a starting load of 76 gr of h1000 as a starting point

 

[Wallrat]

I am trying to believe all the hype that is going on with the new Hornady Eld-X line. I recently bought a box of 200 gr. ELD-X (Precision Hunter) for my Remington 700P and shot a 2" group at 100 yards. Not acceptable. I am going to reload my own ammunition now with the same bullet. Has anybody had any luck with this bullet and what kind of groups are you getting? How is the performance down range?

With a Howa 1500, at 100 yds, I'm putting them in the same hole, if I do my part. That's the 200 gn., in a 300 WM. Not every group does that, but often enough to be really happy with the round.

 

[Overkill338]

Data on 300 win varies a large bit depending where you look. I'm running 77.5gr h1000 with the 200gr gameking 77.8 with the 200gr accubond and 77.8gr with the 208eldm. This is all in fireformed brass that was bump sized seated long coal 3.56 or there about. I didn't see pressure signs with the 208gr untill 78.3 gr.

Sierra says 78.3 is max for H1000 with a 200 Gameking. According to the App, your speed is around 2930 for the 77.5 charge.

 

[sierracharlie338]

OP I know this doesn't make you feel better since you can't control it but I shot that PH ammo out of my 300 with just over half MOA accuracy out to 950. I have no doubt you will be able to tune that bullet to your liking with handloads. Your chamber just didn't agree with the factory ammo for some reason.

 

[Deleted member 112929]

Factory Savage Long Range 300 WM w/24" barrel, 200 gr ELD-X over 73.5 grs of H1000 gave us 2890 fps and sub moa groups out to 800 yds.

What primer were you using. I have Federal 210 large rifle match ( not magnum) GM210M

 

[WAMBO]

Used WLRM primers, Winchester Large Rifle Magnum.

 

[Deleted member 112929]

Used WLRM primers, Winchester Large Rifle Magnum.

Thank you very much

 

[GauleyRidge]

Love those bullets in a .300 wm...I have a cheap, stock Savage 110 that shoots them into a quarter MOA over H4831. Haven't had a chance to stretch them out much yet but good groups at 100 and 200.