270 Win Found My Recipe

SecretSquirrel38 said:

My 270 has a synthetic stock that I modified. There are a lot of voids in the stock. I added 8 oz of bb's spread through the fore-end and another 8 oz to the stock. Then I covered them with black self leveling driveway caulk that turns to rubber when cured. The gun now weighs about 11 pounds which reduced recoil and improves accuracy. I also put a Limbsaver recoil pad on it like my other rifles. My 270 kicks like a 22 now. I put a Limbsaver on my 300 Win Mag and what a difference it made.

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can you share the brand and details for the driveway caulk? Could you remove it if needed? I can tolerate the recoil for the most part in my CVA Cascade 270 but I get muzzle rise and believe the harmonics are hurting accuracy/consistency. I had a muzzle brake and took it off due to poor grouping. My best groups seem to be when I have my Magnetospeed bayonet attached.

Did you account for the weight of the caulk or just use what you needed plus a lb of bbs?

I have used IMR 4350 with nosler AB (130gr) and swift scirocco II bullets(130 gr) 54.5 and 55gr(my favorite) 3070ish fps pretty much the same one hole groups from both and both bullets… also tried Barnes 130 gr same results different POI, they all break bones and punch through with great effect. I have shoot hundreds of rounds through 4 different 270s, Remington, Winchester, HS … with 1/2 moa or better, max book length win brass, win LRP.

sjt18 said:

can you share the brand and details for the driveway caulk? Could you remove it if needed? I can tolerate the recoil for the most part in my CVA Cascade 270 but I get muzzle rise and believe the harmonics are hurting accuracy/consistency. I had a muzzle brake and took it off due to poor grouping. My best groups seem to be when I have my Magnetospeed bayonet attached.

Did you account for the weight of the caulk or just use what you needed plus a lb of bbs?

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Is there a pressure point in the fore end of the stock?

sjt18 said:

can you share the brand and details for the driveway caulk? Could you remove it if needed? I can tolerate the recoil for the most part in my CVA Cascade 270 but I get muzzle rise and believe the harmonics are hurting accuracy/consistency. I had a muzzle brake and took it off due to poor grouping. My best groups seem to be when I have my Magnetospeed bayonet attached.

Did you account for the weight of the caulk or just use what you needed plus a lb of bbs?

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I didn't account for the weight of the caulk. I did my uncle's 270 with caulk only and it helped. I put a piece of PVC pipe that was taped at both ends so I didn't overdo it on the stock. It turns to rubber when it cures so it can be cut out.

I bought a 270 Model 70 in 1973 as a gift to myself for graduating college. I used that rifle with 90 grain bullets for ground squirrels and the 130 grain Sierra for deer for many years and my guess is that the barrel has at least 3000 rounds through it. As you can imagine, accuracy is no longer as good as it was and I have long since switched over to single shot rifles but a few years ago I brought it out of retirement for a mule deer hunt. I used H4350 and the 110 grain Sierra and the accuracy was close to 1 moa. I took a 25" buck with two shots. The first was through the lungs and as he stopped I put a finishing round through the neck. Great bullet performance at 175 yards with very little meat loss. I have since been experimenting with copper bullets as where I live lead is outlawed, even for shotgun pellets. I tried several brands and man did I find the right combination with a Hammer brand 117 grain bullet and worked up to 62.0 grains of H4350 for 3348 fps and 3 shot groups less than an inch. A load of 62.0 grains of StaBal 6.5 was even more accurate and resulted in 3305 fps. Those copper bullets are long so that might be why the accuracy came back as most of my loads with 130 grain conventional bullets are 1.5-2 moa. That old rifle has served me well for 51 years! Tom

Cubbear said:

My dad gave me his pre 64 win 270 and I will be doing load development in the near future. I'm curious, what was your col?

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Thanks for sharing your information. I suspected this would be my rough starting point.

Rflshootr said:

Is there a pressure point in the fore end of the stock?

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Not sure I understand but the barrel is free floating with plenty of room.

SecretSquirrel38 said:

I didn't account for the weight of the caulk. I did my uncle's 270 with caulk only and it helped. I put a piece of PVC pipe that was taped at both ends so I didn't overdo it on the stock. It turns to rubber when it cures so it can be cut out.

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I have a 20 year old 7mm WSM that I want to start with. It was a "budget" purchase Winchester Model 70 but it shoots good for a gun without a free floated barrel. Light weight though and kicks like a Missouri MULE. I'd guess it is as flat shooting as you'll find in a cheap gun.

Shumba1 said:

Sorry for the photo above, but that was the 165 Game Changer to the shoulder of a young deer from a 30-06. Just over 100 yards. Didn't penetrate to the chest cavity.

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Shumba,

I see the massive wound to the shoulder of that deer. If that bullet did not penetrate into the chest cavity, then what killed the deer? Bone fragments acting as shrapnel?

WyoWind

Shumba1 said:

Sorry for the photo above, but that was the 165 Game Changer to the shoulder of a young deer from a 30-06. Just over 100 yards. Didn't penetrate to the chest cavity.

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Sure? That looks like a hole.

sjt18 said:

can you share the brand and details for the driveway caulk? Could you remove it if needed? I can tolerate the recoil for the most part in my CVA Cascade 270 but I get muzzle rise and believe the harmonics are hurting accuracy/consistency. I had a muzzle brake and took it off due to poor grouping. My best groups seem to be when I have my Magnetospeed bayonet attached.

Did you account for the weight of the caulk or just use what you needed plus a lb of bbs?

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Factory ammo or hand loads?

SecretSquirrel38 said:

Shot my 270 Remington 700 ADL with 24 inch barrel at the range today and found my recipe. I am going to run 20 and make sure it's repeatable and make scope adjustments.

130 gr Sierra SBT Gameking
55 gr IMR4350 (max load)
Federal 210 primer
Remington brass

That's a three shot group at 100 yards! The others grains below and above where nowhere as tight.

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I'd have to check, but that looks about what I've been loading since '86? Need to check my #5 Sierra manual.

lancetkenyon said:

You had the inside scoop on the 130 TGKs (Gamechangers) for 46 years and never shared? I thought we were all bros here.

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Guess i don't play very nice eh...

On the real, I was talking about the powder charge, just add any 130 and you'll be Golden

Rflshootr said:

Factory ammo or hand loads?

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Handloads but I just started doing it this year so I'm learning by my own mistakes. I saw a youtube video today talking about the relationship between harmonics and seating depth. I'm going to work with that some after gun season. I have one load that I'm fairly comfortable with especially 200 yds and in. The way I've laid my blind and farm out... I could have some 400 yd shots.