In my .270 AI, I found an accuracy load for .270 Win and .270 AI.
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Ackley Improved Education
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Shane Lindsey
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Mine were not too long, but I found quite a few that they were uneven to had to trim them to clean up.
338 Sherman.
Nimrod
Well-Known Member
It's been my experience that Starline makes pretty good brass but I have never actually sectioned a case to see if there is a difference.
I don't push pressures in anything I shoot, if I think I need more performance I simply go to a larger case, it's easier on the gun and the brass both.
I'm with you 100%! I shoot hundreds of shots at paper/steel for every one I shoot at game as I expect most of the folks on this forum do. I have never viewed fireforming as a chore but simply good practice. I like to shoot my guns and try to do so as much as possible whether fireforming or working up loads for a hunt.
Leaf Litter
Well-Known Member
I run a 35 Whelen AI for deer in Iowa. That gun has turned out to be an absolute beast. I get 4k ft-lb energy out of it and the recoil isn't too bad (when managed).
35 whelen factory ammo goes in, fully formed cases come out. No sweat. I do wish there was better 35 Whelen brass on the market, but I knew it would be that way when I built it.
Redding dies were definitely more costly than I wanted, but they are a great company to work with so I'm not complaining. I destroyed a decapping/expander ball stud and they replaced it for free, despite telling them it was 100% my own fault.
I can't compare the standard 35 Whelen to the AI version, I've never shot or reloaded for the standard, but the AI definitely has some huevos.
35 whelen factory ammo goes in, fully formed cases come out. No sweat. I do wish there was better 35 Whelen brass on the market, but I knew it would be that way when I built it.
Redding dies were definitely more costly than I wanted, but they are a great company to work with so I'm not complaining. I destroyed a decapping/expander ball stud and they replaced it for free, despite telling them it was 100% my own fault.
I can't compare the standard 35 Whelen to the AI version, I've never shot or reloaded for the standard, but the AI definitely has some huevos.
quandary
Well-Known Member
I am in the process of building a 35 Whelen and thinking about standard versus AI. Is it possible to buy 35 Whelen brass and run it through the Redding 35 Whelen Improved sizing die to create the AI brass? Or is the better route to buy the brass load it and fire it to get the formed brass?
No. You have to shoot the brass and push the shoulder out.
memtb
Well-Known Member
I'm pretty sure the case must be fired in the larger AI chamber for the conversion! Buuuut, I've been wrong before! memtb
Fire forming is a great way to break in your new barrel, so it's not wasted effort.
No, buy your factory ammo and fire form it to the AI dimensions. Good shooting practice! Actually, most standard cartridges shoot well from an AI chambering. I used to hunt with the 280 Rem factory cartridges - they shot MOA from my 280AI. My velocity improvement was less than expected due to my short 21" bbl. Doing somewhat better with the newer powders. Always consider barrel length. You can shorten them but not lengthen them!
Leaf Litter
Well-Known Member
You'll 100% need to fire form brass to get full AI capacity and profile. As mentioned by others, your first 100-200 rounds down the new barrel are your break-in period, so fire forming during this time is a great option. I load regular 35W brass and it shoots well enough during fire forming in my 35WAI to hunt with, so you're fine doing that as well.
Ultimately you're only going to see 25-50 fps gain in velocity going to AI, but the AI geometry will decrease the amount of neck trimming required after shooting. This may or may not ever matter, however, due to the lack of quality 35 Whelen brass on the market right now. Most of my Winchester and Hornady cases (trash brass) are getting loose primer pockets by the 3rd or 4th firing, which is when you'd expect to start needing to trim a standard 35W case anyway.
If you were to neck a quality 30-06 brass like Lapua or Peterson up to 35W, you might see the AI chamberings save you time/effort trimming l, but I've yet to try it so I can't say for 100% sure.
memtb
Well-Known Member
Yes it is!
When I form cases for my .373 AI, I use BMG powder……I have a lot of it!
It's waaaay too slow for the available case capacity, so I fill the case to the neck/shoulder and seat a 270 grain Hornady. Groups @ 100 yards are a large ragged hole! Velocities are running around 1800 mv., with very low velocity deviation!
I keep thinking that it would be good for cast bullet loading/shooting….but, I'm concerned about the amount of "unburned" powder in the bore. I'm concerned about bore erosion caused by the unburned powder!
Oh and, my first 60 rounds through my AI was with my .375 H&H hand-loads for my "just retired" H&H in one sitting at the bench. Those were some pretty darn good groups also. memtb
quandary
Well-Known Member
Thanks for the advice! So I can buy 35 W brass, load it, shoot it in a 35 WAI no problem. Then reload it with Redding 35W Improved dies. Sounds pretty straight forward. Seems like there is reason not to go 35WAI?
