Remington 700 cam timing

dfanonymous

dfanonymous

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Jul 16, 2016
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I'm afraid to ask this on here. I'm not sure how many actual gunsmith's are on this forum anymore.

I have a few 700 actions in the safe that i stripped and retired because the cam timing was so badly off.

I'm thinking about finally getting around to fixing them. Is it better to add metal to action where the bolt cams and the file it down, or is it better to remove the handle on the bolt and reweld it? I've seen it done both ways.

Which would lead me to the follow up question…if I remember right, the handles are brazed on. Would it be better to tig braze it (silicon bronze) or just hit it with a regular weld and thin filler?
 
quigley257 said:
Chad Dixon at LRI is a master in R700 timing. Bolt handle is removed, timed, and TIG welded in the proper position.
Click to expand...
I use Chad for most of my custom rifles for competition.

It doesn't help me learn to do it sending it to Chad though. I'm not looking to send it to a gunsmith.
 
You can skin this cat multiple ways, you can just remove the handle and retime then solder or tig it back on, this works but you need to watch your bolt lift to scope clearance and cocking cam positions.
You can also get a handle with corrected geometry and solder or tig it on. I've done it every way and each works, a good solder job hold beyond what you need but I did tig some on as well since I needed an excuse to by a tig.
 
dfanonymous said:
I use Chad for most of my custom rifles for competition.

It doesn't help me learn to do it sending it to Chad though. I'm not looking to send it to a gunsmith.
Click to expand...
No doubt about that. His timing page has some good info on it either way, whether you're going to add to the cam or move the bolt.
www.longriflesinc.com

GUNSMITHING SERVICES: Time/TIG and Time advance/Tig Handle attachement for M700

Our Bolt handle fitting process for the M700 restores the Primary Extraction feature after the action has been blueprinted. Careful TIG (Tungsten Inert Gas) welding aids in joint reliability by creating a stronger union at the shear point between the bolt handle and bolt body. The process we...
www.longriflesinc.com
 
bigngreen said:
You can skin this cat multiple ways, you can just remove the handle and retime then solder or tig it back on, this works but you need to watch your bolt lift to scope clearance and cocking cam positions.
You can also get a handle with corrected geometry and solder or tig it on. I've done it every way and each works, a good solder job hold beyond what you need but I did tig some on as well since I needed an excuse to by a tig.
Click to expand...

I've considered solder. I've done metal (working) silver bearing acid core solder on a few occasions. So I'm not opposed to it, especially when trying to keep heat down below 500f.

You have a brand (link to one) that you recommend with corrected geometry?
 
I identify with doing things yourself, the satisfaction from learning and adding is worth it. I wanted to improve primary extraction on a couple later production 700's but didn't think the man hours making the jig was worth it for a few actions. The last ones I trued for myself I didn't even send the bolt out. Another gunsmith had asked me when the last time primary extraction caused me an issue…….after thinking about it I had a couple 788's that didn't like hot loads but never really had an issue with a 700. If I wanted to hunt Cape Buffalo I'd use a pre-64 model 70.

If I were going to do one I would build a jig and tig on a custom handle.

Dan40x in Alaska likely has more experience than anyone. Be a great resource for setting up a jig.
 
Cam timing is often wrong due to poor handle fitment.
I measure them with feeler gauges, most that are correct run a measured gap between handle and cam/bolt of between .040"-.050", beyond this the cam timing is very poor to non-existent.
Some bolts are less than .040", then what you have is cock on closing issues as well as difficult cam abutment engagement. Also saw cocking pieces way out of spec.
Have seen the worst on RR # serial numbered rifles, but it was also seen on some custom shop KS rifles from the 2000's.
My 416 RM would stick cases, fixed the issue but sold it as the performance was lower than expected.

Cheers.
 
IMG_2019.png
IMG_2017.png
 
Looks like a market for replacement bolts having adjustable fit bolt handles, like grind to fit might/should evolve. This should not be such an involved process.
 

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