Remington 700 cam timing

[dfanonymous]

I'm afraid to ask this on here. I'm not sure how many actual gunsmith's are on this forum anymore.

I have a few 700 actions in the safe that i stripped and retired because the cam timing was so badly off.

I'm thinking about finally getting around to fixing them. Is it better to add metal to action where the bolt cams and the file it down, or is it better to remove the handle on the bolt and reweld it? I've seen it done both ways.

Which would lead me to the follow up question…if I remember right, the handles are brazed on. Would it be better to tig braze it (silicon bronze) or just hit it with a regular weld and thin filler?

 

[quigley257]

Chad Dixon at LRI is a master in R700 timing. Bolt handle is removed, timed, and TIG welded in the proper position.

 

[dfanonymous]

Chad Dixon at LRI is a master in R700 timing. Bolt handle is removed, timed, and TIG welded in the proper position.

I use Chad for most of my custom rifles for competition.

It doesn't help me learn to do it sending it to Chad though. I'm not looking to send it to a gunsmith.

 

[bigngreen]

You can skin this cat multiple ways, you can just remove the handle and retime then solder or tig it back on, this works but you need to watch your bolt lift to scope clearance and cocking cam positions.
You can also get a handle with corrected geometry and solder or tig it on. I've done it every way and each works, a good solder job hold beyond what you need but I did tig some on as well since I needed an excuse to by a tig.

 

[quigley257]

I use Chad for most of my custom rifles for competition.

It doesn't help me learn to do it sending it to Chad though. I'm not looking to send it to a gunsmith.

No doubt about that. His timing page has some good info on it either way, whether you're going to add to the cam or move the bolt.

GUNSMITHING SERVICES: Time/TIG and Time advance/Tig Handle attachement for M700

Our Bolt handle fitting process for the M700 restores the Primary Extraction feature after the action has been blueprinted. Careful TIG (Tungsten Inert Gas) welding aids in joint reliability by creating a stronger union at the shear point between the bolt handle and bolt body. The process we...

www.longriflesinc.com

 

[dfanonymous]

You can skin this cat multiple ways, you can just remove the handle and retime then solder or tig it back on, this works but you need to watch your bolt lift to scope clearance and cocking cam positions.
You can also get a handle with corrected geometry and solder or tig it on. I've done it every way and each works, a good solder job hold beyond what you need but I did tig some on as well since I needed an excuse to by a tig.

I've considered solder. I've done metal (working) silver bearing acid core solder on a few occasions. So I'm not opposed to it, especially when trying to keep heat down below 500f.

You have a brand (link to one) that you recommend with corrected geometry?