Reloading Newb

Welcome from Tennessee. It hasn't been too long since I jumped into the reloading pool head first. I started with the Rock Chucker based on doing research and listening to experienced reloaders. I bought the supreme kit to start with, and it has served me well. To be honest, the only things I continue to use from the original kit are the press, reloading trays, and the trickler (although the trickler is soon to be upgraded). I started loading 308win, 223, 500SW, and 7RM. I bought cheap dies at first (RCBS and Lee). I still use these cheaper dies for handgun and 223 where I am not trying to optimize precision. Redding is now my go to die.

I read manuals and followed their basic instructions at first and was able to produce safe and accurate ammo. Like anything I seem to get involved in, I am always interested in improving my game. This is a hobby where the law of diminishing returns for the $$$ spent really comes into play. Scales were my weakest link for a long time. I just solved the problem, but it cost me.

Enjoy the process and learn. Great bunch of experienced people here.
 
MoLaird16 said:
Gents, new to the forum (so go gentle). I want to get into handloading, but am having a little paralysis by analysis. I saw BackFire TV has a good list to start out with. I don't want to go cheap initially and then upgrade and pay more in the end. But I'm also not going to pretend to know what I'm doing and buy the most gucci gear. So any tender hearts that care to toss a list of really good, not the best reloading kit/combos - fire away!
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I have a few suggestions with friendly respect ! I found it very simple to select a brand of cases that was readily available to me ! Example would be. Winchester / Remington / Federal /Lapua! For me they all require the same case prep ! So step one is re size the new brass , measure everything, trim if needed , deburr the inside of the primer hole and storage by weight !! You only ever do that once. If you are neat enough to keep your seperated cases in their little blue boxes ,or baggies with case weight noted on the box ! Ex: 270 Win in Win cases . 185.0 to 185.4 in one box and 185.5 to 185.9 in another box Then186.0 to 186.4 in another box or baggie and 186.5 to 186.9 in another box or baggie ! I have had good luck with. RCBS dies fir all my hunting cartridges! But I use Forester Micrometer seating dies for every load in every caliber ! Very pleased with them for many many years ! De Burr and chamfer and clean ,clean ,clean all the inside of the necks ! Now your ready to prime ! If what I am saying makes sense to you please reach out to me and I'll be happy to help ! Try not to pick some Unicorn powder that you can only find once a year ! Good luck buddy ! Reloading is great fun and very rewarding !!!
 
MoLaird16 said:
Gents, new to the forum (so go gentle). I want to get into handloading, but am having a little paralysis by analysis. I saw BackFire TV has a good list to start out with. I don't want to go cheap initially and then upgrade and pay more in the end. But I'm also not going to pretend to know what I'm doing and buy the most gucci gear. So any tender hearts that care to toss a list of really good, not the best reloading kit/combos - fire away!
Click to expand...
You have a good mindset to start off with most people myself included, start out cheap and end up not having anything They started with therefore wasting money, but on the other hand, you don't need the Gucci crap either.
 
memtb said:
First…..a Welcome from North Central Wyoming!

Then, don't over complicate it! Or, better yet……don't let the unbelievable amount of internet gurus and information overwhelm you.

First think basic……read! Get an old fashion Lyman Metallic Cartridge Reloading manual. Learn the terminology, and the reloading basics.

This is as basic as it gets……you reuse the case, replacing the components that were used, primer, powder, and bullet.

The case will swell to the chamber dimensions when fired. You must first reduce the case size in the sizing die. During this step, the spent primer is expelled. Next step……replace burned powder. The amount and type will given for your particular cartridge in the aforementioned manual. Next step…..seat a bullet into the case. The manual will also give the recommended cartridge/bullet overall length. You have just reloaded a cartridge!

Yes, that's a bit simplistic……but, those are the fundamentals which can provide you with a shootable cartridge. You can punch paper, shoot cans, or even hunt with that. How deeply you want to get involved solely depends upon, your ultimate desires, your time and money you can put into hand loading!

Some of us started before the internet, on a "shoestring" budget, I started with a $9.99 Lee Loader ( look it up on the Lee website for a .308 Win., a plastic mallet, bullets/primers/powder. I shot a lot of rounds through my little .308 using my Lee Loader.

Obviously, you're going to need a bit more specialized equipment for your 280 AI. This was my attempt to suggest that it can be kept very simple ……yet very functional! memtb

Heres a photo of a LeeLoader for a 30-30 Winchester

View attachment 595628
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This is awesome! Thanks for the warm welcome and sage advice!
 
I've had the reds and the greens. Kept the Redding Big Boss II. If you go O type press look into the In-line fabrication mount. My favorite overall is the Forster co-ax for almost everything reloading. It's a little pricey, but well worth it. No shell holders, no wasted time changing out dies. Super smooth. Turret press? Redding with the Creedmoor Sports upgrade.
 
CNY Yote Hunter said:
Welcome from NY!! For a starter kit I would look at rcbs or Hornady press kits. You can buy one fairly cheap and they come with everything included to get started. So they usually have the press, powder trickler, case holder, micrometer, reloading manual, bullet extractor etc. literally everything you will need to start out. What you will need, cartridge holder- depending on what you're reloading the sizes change. Powder, primers, projectiles and if definitely get a comparator right out of the gate. That should get you a great start and there are plenty of good videos online to watch. Once you get going, there's tons of little tips and tricks to dial in your loads, the guys on here will have a ton of info on that for ya! Best of luck and welcome
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Thanks! Yea, I've read a lot of the back and forth on here for years about reloading tips/tricks. Gotta learn the language!
 
The kits available from the major brands are more than adequate to get you started. A good kit will have the press, powder throw, powder trickler, scale, and a length measuring device (I prefer to use a precision tool manufacturer, personally. Fowler, Sarrett, Mititoyo, etc 6" Caliper, dial or digital is a personal preference, but it needs to read thousandths of an inch 0.001 fairly accurately and consistently). Dies and shell holders will be what the kits do not include. Nor will a case trimmer be in the kit, typically.

But data is, by far, the most important piece of the safety puzzle. The reloading manuals published by each bullet manufacturer provide the most comprehensive data for any given SAMI cartridge with all powders suitable for every bullet that manufacturer produces for that caliber. Many manuals have preamble sections outlining terminology, techniques, and safety. I find the Berger manual goes further into depth explaining techniques than "just the basics" as well as explaining the "why" of advanced technique which will allow you to decide how far down this rabbit hole you truly wish to explore.

The latest editions will include data for new powders as well as updated information for the "classics" who's formulas have been tweaked here and there over the decades. If you have powder that was made in the 1960/70/80's, you need a manual from those eras to be accurate with pressures, for instance. Bullet construction has also significantly improved, especially recently, as long range has become more and more popular. The hardness of the bullets outer jacket, or bearing surface, will be different manufacturer to manufacturer, decade to decade and this difference, minute as it seems, can have devastating impact on chamber pressures produced. My point here is: don't buy that old box of bullets or can of powder at your local show if you don't have the data from the time period they were originally made. Things have changed. 1960 IMR4350 is not the same as 1990's which in turn is not 2020's. Be aware. It is not the "screaming deal" it seems to be.
 
Lenny Foffa said:
I have a few suggestions with friendly respect ! I found it very simple to select a brand of cases that was readily available to me ! Example would be. Winchester / Remington / Federal /Lapua! For me they all require the same case prep ! So step one is re size the new brass , measure everything, trim if needed , deburr the inside of the primer hole and storage by weight !! You only ever do that once. If you are neat enough to keep your seperated cases in their little blue boxes ,or baggies with case weight noted on the box ! Ex: 270 Win in Win cases . 185.0 to 185.4 in one box and 185.5 to 185.9 in another box Then186.0 to 186.4 in another box or baggie and 186.5 to 186.9 in another box or baggie ! I have had good luck with. RCBS dies for all my hunting cartridges! But I use Forester Micrometer seating dies for every load in every caliber ! Very pleased with them for many many years ! De Burr and chamfer and clean ,clean ,clean all the inside of the necks ! Now you're ready to prime ! If what I am saying makes sense to you please reach out to me and I'll be happy to help ! Try not to pick some Unicorn powder that you can only find once a year ! Good luck buddy ! Reloading is great fun and very rewarding !!!
Click to expand...
Thanks boss! Appreciate the advice!
 
MoLaird16 said:
I haven't set a budget really. Wanted to see what are the "right" things to buy first.
Click to expand...
The scale is another rabbit hole. At one time I was using two scales for verification, lol. I finally ended up with the A&D. You have many decisions ahead of you. It really depends on how accurate, convenient, fast you want to go...
 

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