6.8 western from 7 SAUM brass

codyadams

codyadams

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Did a search but didn't find anything.

Since 6.8 western brass is limited and pretty much only winchester, has anyone ran some ADG 7 SAUM brass through a 6.8 western die, maybe trimmed, then shot it? Would it work? I would much rather use ADG brass than Winchester. Or at least know 7 SAUM brass is an option, even if the 6.8 does fade away, 7 saum is here to stay.
 
codyadams said:
Did a search but didn't find anything.

Since 6.8 western brass is limited and pretty much only winchester, has anyone ran some ADG 7 SAUM brass through a 6.8 western die, maybe trimmed, then shot it? Would it work? I would much rather use ADG brass than Winchester. Or at least know 7 SAUM brass is an option, even if the 6.8 does fade away, 7 saum is here to stay.
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Cody,

I was looking at the SAAMI specs for both dimensions, and it seems like it might work. Hopefully, others with hands-on experience will chime in. This might be something @Swamplord would experiment with.

Ed
 
I have a 6.5 and 30 cal. on the 6.8 case and use saum brass in both. not really any different than other very popular wildcats that use saum brass. I have multiple firings after fireforming and absolutely no issues, using Bartram in 30 and Remington in the 6.5 and have ADG here but have not used it, but don't expect any issues with it.
 
can1010 said:
I have a 6.5 and 30 cal. on the 6.8 case and use saum brass in both. not really any different than other very popular wildcats that use saum brass. I have multiple firings after fireforming and absolutely no issues, using Bartram in 30 and Remington in the 6.5 and have ADG here but have not used it, but don't expect any issues with it.
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I have been thinking about trying to do a 7mm on the 6.8 case. I was hoping the 7PRC would be this but they went long action with it.
 
Blase84 said:
I have been thinking about trying to do a 7mm on the 6.8 case. I was hoping the 7PRC would be this but they went long action with it.
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It's so close, it would make more sense to just do a 7 saum, headstamped brass from good manufacturers, everyone will have reamers, dies are easy to get. If you want the improved 35° shoulder angle of the 6.8, do a 7 Sherman max, it just has less body taper and a 40° shoulder. And again, you can get headstamped brass, dies are easy to get, and a lot of options for pre fits or smith's with reamers.
 
Blase84 said:
I have been thinking about trying to do a 7mm on the 6.8 case. I was hoping the 7PRC would be this but they went long action with it.
Click to expand...
you won't see a big difference between the 6.8 and 7 both have quality options in the 160-175gr range with 180 being max. the heavy 7s really have no advantage, there is just not enough case capacity to take advantage of the extra weight and BC.

just pick which ever one floats your boat and enjoy.
there is one advantage to the 6.8 design is that it is just a short WSM and your smith can make one by just running a WSM reamer in short and trimming the WSM sizing die. No custom reamers or dies and the cost and 3-6 month wait times for them and if your using 6.8 or the SAUM brass it don't really matter what your headstamp is it is a wildcat just like the thousands of other wildcats that have a parent case with a different headstamp.
 
can1010 said:
you won't see a big difference between the 6.8 and 7 both have quality options in the 160-175gr range with 180 being max. the heavy 7s really have no advantage, there is just not enough case capacity to take advantage of the extra weight and BC.

just pick which ever one floats your boat and enjoy.
there is one advantage to the 6.8 design is that it is just a short WSM and your smith can make one by just running a WSM reamer in short and trimming the WSM sizing die. No custom reamers or dies and the cost and 3-6 month wait times for them and if your using 6.8 or the SAUM brass it don't really matter what your headstamp is it is a wildcat just like the thousands of other wildcats that have a parent case with a different headstamp.
Click to expand...
I really like this 6.8W I built with a carbon fiber stick and barrel. It's light weight and not much recoil with a suppressor on it. It's a hunting rifle it has a great 3 shot group after that it opens up but again it's a hunting rifle don't need more than 3 shots normally.
 
Blase84 said:
I really like this 6.8W I built with a carbon fiber stick and barrel. It's light weight and not much recoil with a suppressor on it. It's a hunting rifle it has a great 3 shot group after that it opens up but again it's a hunting rifle don't need more than 3 shots normally.
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I like the .277 caliber and it is a good choice for a hunting gun. if you reload you might look into some of the lightweight mono bullets their extra velocity really shines in the 270. personal choice in the past has been the 128 badlands.
 
I have always been a 7mm person never cared die the .277 caliber but I do like this 6.8W and I may reload some of the 145gr ELDX up and see what it will do with those. But I'll probably just stick with the 165ABLR bullets most likely.
can1010 said:
I like the .277 caliber and it is a good choice for a hunting gun. if you reload you might look into some of the lightweight mono bullets their extra velocity really shines in the 270. personal choice in the past has been the 128 badlands.
Click to expand...
 
Found this thread about a month ago and decided to try converting 7mm SAUM to 6.8 Western. It worked beautifully. I sized ADG 7mm SAUM brass with a Redding 6.8 Western FL die with the expander in it. Loaded it with the .277 170gr Berger and 51.5gr of IMR 4350. Shot about an inch 5 shot group at 100 yards. Once fired brass has a 35 degree shoulder but I might need to trim the neck a little before I load it again. Thanks for the advice!

I have a relatively inexpensive setup: Browning X-Bolt Hunter with a 24 inch 7.5 twist barrel, and a Trijicion Huron 3x12 scope. Didn't want to spend too much on messing around with a new cartridge. It'll work fine for target shooting and hunting Southeastern hogs/whitetails.
 
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ShortRangeShooter said:
Found this thread about a month ago and decided to try converting 7mm SAUM to 6.8 Western. It worked beautifully. I sized ADG 7mm SAUM brass with a Redding 6.8 Western FL die with the expander in it. Loaded it with the .277 170gr Berger and 51.5gr of IMR 4350. Shot about an inch 5 shot group at 100 yards. Once fired brass has a 35 degree shoulder but I might need to trim the neck a little before I load it again. Thanks for the advice!

I have a relatively inexpensive setup: Browning X-Bolt Hunter with a 24 inch 7.5 twist barrel, and a Trijicion Huron 3x12 scope. Didn't want to spend too much on messing around with a new cartridge. It'll work fine for target shooting and hunting Southeastern hogs/whitetails.
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I'm trying the same thing, can't get most round to fire even after removing extractor pin and seating bullets long so they are shoved into the lands. The one I got to fire crushed the shoulder of the case?? Any ideas?
20240406_114121.png
 
jjh1 said:
I'm trying the same thing, can't get most round to fire even after removing extractor pin and seating bullets long so they are shoved into the lands. The one I got to fire crushed the shoulder of the case?? Any ideas?View attachment 561492
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Wouldn't expect our rifle chambers to vary that much. I used new brass and loaded it at the 2.940" COAL from the 2024 Hodgdon manual.

Going to shoot 15 more pieces of new 7mm SAUM brass with three different bullets tomorrow: Speer GS 130gr, Hornady ELDx 145gr, and the Nosler Accubond LR 165gr. All loaded with medium charges of Win 6.5 StaBall and COALs from the 2024 Hodgdon manual and the Lyman 51 manual. If I have time, I'm going to clean/anneal/load the once fired cases with the 170 Berger and a slower burning powder and measure velocity. I'd like to find out if lighter bullets form the brass as well as heavier ones. I'll let you know how it goes.
 
jjh1 said:
I'm trying the same thing, can't get most round to fire even after removing extractor pin and seating bullets long so they are shoved into the lands. The one I got to fire crushed the shoulder of the case?? Any ideas?View attachment 561492
Click to expand...
the only time I seen that when fireforming is if the powder charge is too low, the gas gets pest the neck before it fully seals the neck. what powder charge and powder are you using.
 
can1010 said:
the only time I seen that when fireforming is if the powder charge is too low, the gas gets pest the neck before it fully seals the neck. what powder charge and powder are you using.
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I used 52 gr of IMR4350 with 150 gr bullet. It's the very low end of the load data. I had the same thought you did, so I loaded one at 53 and one at 54 but I can't get them to fire even with the extractor pin removed and the bullet getting jammed into the lands when closing the bolt
 

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