Elk hunt sleeping bag...what would you do?

50 years ago, in a good close tent, on a good pad, and a -20 bag. Slept in my underwear with the bag unzipped many times, outside 0. In a huge tent, no stove, set my 6 pound tent inside, away from the wind and snow outside.
 
Ive got a $750 budget to get a really warm sleeping bag say late season Colorado -20f bag. It would mainly be used in base camp but being able to pack it to the high country would be a bonus.

What would you get?
James
I've got a couple of Northface, Camp 7, and Gerry -20, -30 bags that are almost too much bag if it's above 0.

The biggest concern is just having a dry place and a good insulated pad between you and the ground or your back is still going to get really cold.
 
Arkansasdad,
The Army did NOT use goose downing its old winter bags, it used duck down mixed about 50/50 with chicken feathers! Those old bags are warm but actually heavier than the newest synthetic bags rated for the same temps.
in fact the Army mow uses full synthetic bags of various weights made with a version of PolarGuard.
 
YES to most of those things....HA Ive hunted 6 seasons and taken at least one elk out of the woods on all of them but 1. I typically DIY around Pagosa or Creede at elevations from 7-11K,. In basecamp I sleep on a cot and love coming in from a long cold day and crawling into a warm sleeping bag! I mainly pack in by foot but have also taken a 4whlr and could do horse, goats or llama in the future for extended stay in the high country. So I want to be prepared for ant of those scenarios mentioned.

I already have very light, small, 10deg bag for spike camping by foot.
Great Questions
James
Given all of those scenarios it'd be wise to tailor systems to certain scenarios. Personally, when it comes to really cold stuff there's not much that's going to keep me from coming back to camp. I know it's possible, maybe with a pack string, but if it's that cold I'm probably not carrying all of that on my back. If I'm backpacking in, it's gotta be warm enough that I'm not considering a 5+lb bag and a 4-season tent. Some snow is fine and teens or even single digits would be fine, but -20° is way lower than I'd want to go with gear solely on my back. I guess there's some gear that would make it feasible but it's gonna be expensive. Cold nights on the mountain are the worst.

Personally, my coldest weather setup I could carry is a Sea to Summit Spark 5°, 40° quilt in the Sea to Summit Traveler and a Sea to Summit liner. I think that'll come in around 3.5 lbs and might get me down to about -10° to -15°, add puffies that I'll probably have with me if it's that cold and it'll get me even lower. Plus I have 4-6 different configurations that can be used from summer to some pretty cold winter nights.
 
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In my experience a -20 bag means you won't freeze to death at the specific temperature rating. I'm all about bomb proof gear. I have a wiggys -20 Ultima Thule. It's a bit heavy and big but I love my sleep and I feel toasty down to 0. They have several on sale right now for $150 with options on size, foot box and zipper options.
That is correct. They'll keep you alive at those temps but there's a big difference between alive and comfortable.
 
That is correct. They'll keep you alive at those temps but there's a big difference between alive and comfortable.
One big thing to look at when it comes to temperature ratings is loft ratings (600, 700, 850, 950 etc.) and then the weight of the fill, some companies will say 10° or 15° but then you look some other companies with the same loft and fill that are rated for higher temps. I know I had a Big Agnes bag rated for 20° with 850 down, but the weight of that down was LOW, compared to a 15° bag from Stone Glacier it was waaay lower. This Big Agnes bag was obviously not a true 20° or even close. I froze my *** off in 25° while sleeping in the back of an SUV, I had to add a liner and another bag to keep warm. I tried all sorts of combinations on that trip before I got it right.

Not as a reply for this post but for the OP, keep in mind that, especially when backpacking, nutrition is huge, if you don't get enough calories during the day you're going to be really cold at night. That's something I discovered when I was freezing, my calorie intake was way too low for the temps and my activity level.

Just things to keep in mind when selecting a bag, or when actually on the hunt. All bags aren't created equal even when it comes to ratings.
 
One big thing to look at when it comes to temperature ratings is loft ratings (600, 700, 850, 950 etc.) and then the weight of the fill, some companies will say 10° or 15° but then you look some other companies with the same loft and fill that are rated for higher temps. I know I had a Big Agnes bag rated for 20° with 850 down, but the weight of that down was LOW, compared to a 15° bag from Stone Glacier it was waaay lower. This Big Agnes bag was obviously not a true 20° or even close. I froze my *** off in 25° while sleeping in the back of an SUV, I had to add a liner and another bag to keep warm. I tried all sorts of combinations on that trip before I got it right.

Not as a reply for this post but for the OP, keep in mind that, especially when backpacking, nutrition is huge, if you don't get enough calories during the day you're going to be really cold at night. That's something I discovered when I was freezing, my calorie intake was way too low for the temps and my activity level.

Just things to keep in mind when selecting a bag, or when actually on the hunt. All bags aren't created equal even when it comes to ratings.
All very true. We used to make "Ranger Cookies" during cold weather deployments by mixing C Ration and MRE peanut butter, cocoa, and instant coffee.

Add just enough water to it to get it to stick together and roll it up into little balls. The other thing was we'd always pack along as much Hershey's chocolate, semi sweet baker's chocolate, or even M&M's.

If you're working hard in the cold all day it's almost impossible to eat enough to keep from going negative and something like that an hour before bed time could really be the difference in a comfortable night and misery.
 
I have a 10 degree quilt from Enlightened Equipment. It weighs about 28 oz. I love it. I used to turtle under the quilt to keep my face warm. It is hard to breathe that way. I bought a 3.5 oz. down hoodie that covers my head and neck. It makes a huge difference. I use a lightweight (8 Oz) bivy. It adds a few degrees of comfort and helps keep you from slipping off the pad. The new treated down is less susceptible to moisture. But I've woken up with ice all around the hood of my mummy bag and that would build up after a while.

I've been sleeping in mummy bags since I was 9, so I'm used to them. If you're not, it may take some getting used to. You just have to move both legs together.

X2 on something warm under you. In a pinch. pine boughs at least get you off the frozen ground. I have a $20 yard sale synthetic bag that kept me almost warm at -20. I was sleeping on 5" foam. But it would fill a backpack all by itself. Down packs much smaller and is lighter for the warmth.

When I was a Boy Scout, they told us to sleep in our underwear. Because we wore cotton, which gets wet from sweat and takes forever to dry. Now I sleep in fleece long johns and top. They breathe. I can't stand to wear socks to bed. But, when it is cold you need to. I bought some socks for diabetics that fit loosely and wear them comfortably.

Take a lesson from the Army. Get two bags that fit together. That gives you way more flexibility, may be warmer, and is probably less expensive.

Check the girth of the bags you're looking at. The smaller, the warmer. I've always liked North Face bags because they fit tight and warm.

With all this said, if it is that cold, you want a wood stove in your tent. Being able to warm up after a hard day hunting is important. If you're cold and miserable, it is hard to maintain a positive hunting attitude. Kifaru sells a tarp tent with a wood stove. I have their tipi tent and it is great on a wet or snowy day. My tent and stove weighs about 11 lbs., but spilt between two people isn't bad. Tarps are lighter, and warmer when not heated, but not as comfortable.
 
If you take a wood stove (lots of light folding style stoves,) you'll probably want a light weight. saw to cut up wood. Go for standing dead aspen -- they burn hot, but fast.
 
I switched to a Western Mountaineering bag about 5 years ago. The only regret I have is that I didn't do it sooner.
 
Really good advice in thread;
Separate bag for packing and one for base camp. Buy the biggest one you can with best rating for base camp. Enjoy the "luxury" at base camp!
Separate pad for packing versus nice foam mattress for base camp.
Consider liner for packing for added warmth. I add a fleece liner for base camp. Crazy how much warmth a fleece liner provides. You can hang it up outside to air it out.
Bag length is critical for good stretch in packing or base camp.
Buy the biggest cot in length, width and height for base camp. You will appreciate the extra room especially the extra height for putting clothes on or even boots. Plus put gear under the cot easily.
Watch Camofire.com for bag deals, cots, pack tents, etc.
 

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