To "Brake or not to "Brake"

kcebcj

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I'm in the process of having a 300 RUM built and really…..really don't want to put a brake on it. Would like to hear from any who shoot the 300 a lot both with and without a brake. It will end up somewhere between 9 and 11 lbs depending. Having to use ear protection while hunting especially with a carry rifle just doesn't set well with me.

Thanks for your responses in advance it is appreciated.
 
Well, I don't shoot a RUM. But, I have wrestled with the same question in my rifles. I don't like the idea of having to put ear protection on before I shoot either and none of my rifles currently have a break.

However, the rifle that I'm having built currently will be my first venture into the world of muzzle breaks. The reason I'm doing it is when you are shooting truly long range shots, it is nearly impossible to watch your impacts without one. And I figure for long range stuff, I have time to put on some ears. It is certainly a tradeoff, but there are also some pretty nifty electronic hearing protection rigs out there that allow you to hear or amplify normal range sounds and block out muzzle blast. For a long range ambush type situation (glassing and shooting from a set position), I don't really think wearing hearing protection is much of a hinderance. But if you want to stillhunt or even spot and stalk I think wearing ears will be somewhat of a bother. Just my .02.
 
A .300 RUM in 9-11 lbs. rifle with no brake is a little brutal on the shoulder but is manageable. If your going to be shooting long range mostly you usually have time to set up for the shot so a rifle with a muzzle brake and ear protection is no big thing. If this is going to be mostly a carry rifle I can see why you wouldn't want a brake. I would go without the brake, at least for now. If you find the recoil is too much to handle it's easy to install a brake later on. You could also have a brake installed and have a thread protector made so you can remove the brake and hunt with no brake and still have the threads for the brake protected.
 
I'm in the process of having a 300 RUM built and really…..really don't want to put a brake on it. Would like to hear from any who shoot the 300 a lot both with and without a brake. It will end up somewhere between 9 and 11 lbs depending. Having to use ear protection while hunting especially with a carry rifle just doesn't set well with me.

Thanks for your responses in advance it is appreciated.

It is mostly a question you will have to answer because everyone has a different level
of tolerance to recoil.

Just because you have a high level does not make you tough ,it is just your tolerance
and a low level does not make you a wuss. just a more active nervous system.

Mine is about 85 to 90 ft/lbs (My 416 has no break but it is not fun after about 30 to
40 shots).Because it weighs 12 lbs I can shoot it without a break.

I personally don't like breaks but if the rifle is light and recoil is heavy then one should
install a break to help with accuracy and fun because if you have to think about how
hard it's going to kick then it will effect your accuracy.

And to answer your quertion from my perspective a 300 RUM that weighs 9 to 11lbs
does not need a break. If it weighed 6lbs it probably would .

It is not something that can't be added later so try it without one first and add it later
if nessary.

J E CUSTOM
 
Well, I dumped several animals with my new braked .300RUM last season. No ear protection for any of them. The coolest thing ever was when I actually saw a deer go rolling head over heels through my scope! Never had a gun that would sit still enough for that. I did carry ear plugs but every shot that I had required pretty snap decision making so I never had time to put them in. I have not noticed any hearing loss but your mileage may vary...

I really don't think it's that much louder than a regular old rifle. My buddy has one that is magna-ported and that sucker will deafen you. The big blocks seem to channel the noise outward more than back at you. No one will sit near me at the public range, another bonus.

I will probably get some kind of walkers game ear or something for when I'm still hunting next season.
 
You could also have a brake installed and have a thread protector made so you can remove the brake and hunt with no brake and still have the threads for the brake protected.

That is what I do. A rifle will shoot to a different POI with a brake but once you know the difference, you just dial it in when you change over. I think on my 257 Wby it is about 0.5 MOA up and about 0.75 MOA left.
 
First-off --- hearing is a very important sense, no reason to try and damage it on purpose. If possible, you should always try to use hearing protection while pulling the trigger or spoting for someone. LRH allows the ear gear to be put on and that is the #1 reason my 338 has a break.

I have shot a 300RUM w/out a brake, 26 in barrel and it was not fun, but only weighed about 7 lbs, with a break ---same rifle, felt like a .243. The other 300RUM was abou 11.5lbs, no break, 30inch barrel, and was ok --- just had a gentle pushback ----- I think it had to do with a good stock,pad system and the longer barrel burning the powder more thoroughly.

Several years ago I developed a terrible flinch problem by shooting 3 1/2 inch 12 gauge turkey loads in a mossberg pump --- likely due to bad stock design and, light gun and heavy recoil, ---- I corrected it by shooting a lot of rounds with less recoil, but speaking from experience, don't put yourself in that situation if you can avoid it.

I would suspect that a 300RUM at 11lbs with a long barrel and good stock design would be fine w/out a brake.
 
I agree with troutslayer about the ear protection . I have a 300 rum with a 26'' broughton heavy sporter contour barell with no flutes so it prabably weighs a little more than the sendaro barell. It's topped with a 6.5-20-50 lupy I tossed the factory recoil pad and went with a softer one. I am trying to find a good load for the 210 bergers shooting a few three shot groups at the bench with a t- shirt on is not to bad ,what annoys me the most is it jumps out of the sand bags everytime I pull the trigger so i'm going with a break once I get the $$$ in my opinion anyone that shoots the 300rum after 25 or 30 rounds that holds it lightly enough to hit what their aiming at or to shoot itty bitty groups would want a brake. I'm going with the threaded option that was mentioned already ...
 
I had a 300 RUM built a couple years ago (28" Donnely barrel, McMillian stock, 700 Rem Action) and it was the best thig I ever did. Started shooting and it was almost unpleasant and I am a larger guy. About 10 rounds was all I could do before my shoulder felt like it would fall off. By the way the gun weighs in at around 13 pounds. I first had a Kick-eze recoil pad put on and what a difference that made. I would recommend them to anyone. The only dissadvantage I have found is that to help the pad last and reap the full benefits you don't want to store your gun upright on the butt end end as you would in a safe. The pad greatly reduced recoil to the point that myself or anyone else could shoot the gun without any discomfort. I also then had a brake installed. I will say it reduced some of the recoil but the reason I put it on was to reduce the barrel jump. This gun now shoots like a dream. I have even had my fiance shoot it off the bench and she is pretty small. She said her 270 Weatherby kicks harder than my 300 RUM. Of course it is nice having earplugs in when I shoot. The muzzle blast is signaficantly worse, but overall the benefits in the end outweigh anything lost. I wouls suggest this to anyone shooting a Rum or larger hot magnum at longer ranges than normal.
 
I have an unbraked Rem 700 300 RUM in a McMillan Remington sporter stock with its Pachmayr Decelerator recoil pad. It is topped with a Leupold 3.5-10 and feels fairly light. Probably less than 9 pounds. That particular stock has very little drop to the comb and subsequently it recoils basically straight back at me instead of jumping up off the bench. I shoot it from the bench with a shoulder pad and a firm grip on the stock and don't find it objectionable at all. I'm 5'9" and about 165 lbs. I think the stock design plays a large part in perceived recoil. This rifle is more pleasant for me to shoot than a 300 Win mag with more drop to the buttstock. This is with a 200 gr Accubond at 3200 fps.

I also have a Rem 700 7mm RUM that I put a SSG brake on. It went from a very sharp hard recoil to maybe a 243. It is quite loud however. I'm happy with both rifles.
 
Have an Edwards Magnum Recoil Reducer (spring and weight design), and a Pachmayr Decel Pad (or a similar "soft" type pad) installed and that will tame the recoil of a lightweight, heavy hitting rifle. I also use a muzzle brake (Vias) on my 300 and 338 RUM rifles, and the recoil is equivalent to a 243 Winchester, and this is from a 6.5 lb rifle. My girlfriend shot my MK100 338 Lapua Magnum rifle Saturday for the first time and flinched for the first couple of rounds until she figured out that the rifle wasn't going to punish her for shooting it. That rifle weighs 10.6 lbs.

The spring and weight design recoil reducer slows down the kinetic energy and transform the "kick" into a push instead. My face and shoulder can be pushed all day long, and all I have to concentrate on is the mechanics of making a good shot, and not bracing myself to be knocked into the next time zone.
 
I want to thank everyone for their comments. Have decided from the info you guys have given me to go ahead and have Nate install a brake but have it easily removable for hunting. Best of both worlds right……….thanks again.
 
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