Question about annealing

[Bullhunter20]

I have recently bought a Remington 700 sps chambered in 300 RUM that I would like to mainly use for hunting. Along with the rifle, I got 100 rounds of new R&P brass and about 50 rounds of several times fired R&P brass. On initial inspection I found several of the fired brass had split necks. I believe this brass to be fired 3-4 times, but do not know for sure. I usually tumble and sonic clean the brass after sizing to get sizing case lube residue off the cases and to have a nice clean and polished case before reloading, which upon further close inspection, I found more hairline splits in several more of the fired cases, that I could not see on initial inspection. My question: Is it okay to anneal this brass "after" sizing? I know I should have annealed right away after finding initial split necks, but I'm no expert and I never thought of it until doing some research.....after I resized. I would like to extend the life of the brass, knowing it is very work hardened, although the consensus on LRH is to anneal "before" sizing, not after. I have never annealed before, and plan on using the drill socket, torch, towel cool method. I know neck tension could be an issue, but I believe brass life is more of an issue considering availability and price of such brass. Thoughts? All input is welcome, and thanks in advance!

 

[Rick Richard]

You want to anneal before resizing because you want the material to be softer when attempting to reconfigure. If not, you run the risk of not adequately resizing and fatigue cracks to the neck. My opinion anyway.

And, welcome to the forum.

 

[Varmint Hunter]

I've annealed after sizing. It's no big deal. Annealing before sizing is preferrable for getting a more consistent bullet seating force from case-to-case.

 

[Varmint Hunter]

Your intended "socket" method has been used by many in the past, but I just don't see how you can get consistent results with an unregulated method like that. I guess if you perfect the method, it would be better than not annealing.

I'd look for some better brass too, because you seem to be having too many case failures with the brass that you have. I've shot plenty of 300RUM and 338RUM long before I started annealing and never had many case neck cracks.

 

[Phil Rizzo]

Annealing correctly is worth every penny to me.
Find a couple local guys and split the cost of a good machine, you won't regret the gain.

 

[Bullhunter20]

You want to anneal before resizing because you want the material to be softer when attempting to reconfigure. If not, you run the risk of not adequately resizing and fatigue cracks to the neck. My opinion anyway.

And, welcome to the forum.

Thank you. I believe the cracks I discovered were likely from the resizing, not necessarily from the previous firing given I didnt notice any cracks before resizing.... which is what set me on this path. I am beyond that now, and just want to make dang sure it's okay to anneal after sizing. I would like to soften the brass "before" further work hardening during the next firing. Any annealing I do in the future will definitely be "before" sizing!

 

[Phil Rizzo]

People have their own procedures but I anneal every firing. May be unnecessary.
Dont know. It's too easy to skip for me thankfully.

 

[Bullhunter20]

Your intended "socket" method has been used by many in the past, but I just don't see how you can get consistent results with an unregulated method like that. I guess if you perfect the method, it would be better than not annealing.

I'd look for some better brass too, because you seem to be having too many case failures with the brass that you have. I've shot plenty of 300RUM and 338RUM long before I started annealing and never had many case neck cracks.

I Agree. Thats the problem, I suppose, with buying someone else's "used" brass. I'm sure it didn't get just a shoulder bump and it is showing the reasons why it should have. The only brass I have found available is ADG brass, which has good reviews. I may go that route, but I do have 100 rounds of new R&P brass, to get me started. If annealing after sizing is a definite "no go", I will just plan to shoot what I have for fired cases and figure it may fail with one more firing, before I can get it annealed. I also have a 338 RUM that I love and have had no issues with either! Thanks for the reply.

 

[Varmint Hunter]

People have their own procedures but I anneal every firing. May be unnecessary.
Dont know. It's too easy to skip for me thankfully.

I'm way too lazy for that. On new high end brass, I'll anneal after the 3rd firing. After that, every other firing is all I can tolerate.

To be honest - I went the first 40 years reloading w/o annealing at all. It presented no problems, and my case life was always acceptable. More important than annealing (for me) was to recognize donuts and to deal with them.

 

[Turpentine21]

People have their own procedures but I anneal every firing. May be unnecessary.
Dont know. It's too easy to skip for me thankfully.

I also anneal after firing every time. I use my fingers and a propane torch. Count of 4-6 depending on brass and brand. I've just done it enough I know what I'm looking for and have a good feel for it. I trim on a Forster 3 in 1 and you can actually see and feel when brass hardens and needs annealing.

 

[Turpentine21]

I actually got a box of Hornady 7mm08 ammo that every cartridge in the box had a split opposite each other. Two splits on each neck. These were their reduced recoil loads. I emailed and sent them the box. Which they replaced.

 

[RockyRandy]

I actually got a box of Hornady 7mm08 ammo that every cartridge in the box had a split opposite each other. Two splits on each neck. These were their reduced recoil loads. I emailed and sent them the box. Which they replaced.

Wow, brand new brass!

 

[Turpentine21]

Wow, brand new brass!

Brand spanking new 7mm-08 light recoil ammunition!

 

[mdmiller]

Welcome from Illinois.
You will find you answers here!!