How to boil a skull for a euro mount???

[FireFlyFishing]

Hello all!

I wasn't sure where to post this, but boiling in a pot is involved so I stuck it in the Cook's Corner.

I'm looking to boil my whitetail skull I harvested this year. This will be my first attempt using this method and I'm looking for the cheat code that accomplishes this in the easiest fashion leaving the nose bones in tact and is the overall easiest process.

I found this video on YouTube that seems like a good process:


I did notice in the comments section many others mentioning using a pressure washer (I do have a pressure washer) rather than a garden hose.

Any tips would be greatly appreciated and thanks in advance!

 

[Termite I]

I've only boiled one skull, it was my sons Buck Antelope. I wish I would have thought to use a pressure washer in hindsight. Not sure if Whitetail skulls are the same as Antelope but I think they'd be very similar. I had a pair of really long tweezers that helped get the stuff out of the nasal cavity but pressure washing would have probably worked as well or better. My son went to ARC or Goodwill and found a large stainless steel pot for a reasonable price.
Good Luck!

 

[FireFlyFishing]

I've only boiled one skull, it was my sons Buck Antelope. I wish I would have thought to use a pressure washer in hindsight. Not sure if Whitetail skulls are the same as Antelope but I think they'd be very similar. I had a pair of really long tweezers that helped get the stuff out of the nasal cavity but pressure washing would have probably worked as well or better. My son went to ARC or Goodwill and found a large stainless steel pot for a reasonable price.
Good Luck!

I have a two burner stove and big pots my wife and I use for canning. So we have that covered. As i mentioned, I also have the pressure washer. My only issue right now is it's 11 degrees outside right now….

 

[Termite I]

I used a Coleman 2 burner but was able to do it in my heated shop. We bent the pot into an oval so more of the skull would be submerged. I wish I'd have done it outside after boiling the horns to pop them off. There is something in the horns that gave off a really bad smell.

 

[Ol' Red]

You might want to wait for a little warmer weather. I have "boiled" several skulls over the years. Don't really boil, but just simmer. I use Dawn dishwashing soap, because it seems to degrease very well. If you use a pressure washer make sure to wear goggles and rainwear, since it tends to put a lot brain and meat on you. If the heat gets too high the skull gets brittle. Make sure the breeze is blowing toward the neighbor you like the least.

 

[FireFlyFishing]

I used a Coleman 2 burner but was able to do it in my heated shop. We bent the pot into an oval so more of the skull would be submerged. I wish I'd have done it outside after boiling the horns to pop them off. There is something in the horns that gave off a really bad smell.

Probably like burnt hair? The horns on an antelope come off in the boiling process as opposed to the antlered species….that's what I was told anyways.

 

[crashlanding]

You might want to wait for a little warmer weather. I have "boiled" several skulls over the years. Don't really boil, but just simmer. I use Dawn dishwashing soap, because it seems to degrease very well. If you use a pressure washer make sure to wear goggles and rainwear, since it tends to put a lot brain and meat on you. If the heat gets too high the skull gets brittle. Make sure the breeze is blowing toward the neighbor you like the least.

Good advice here, I use this process as well. Buy some metal picks from harbor freight to get into the cracks and crevices

 

[Backwoods towny]

Only question I have is.......
How long do you leave it in the bleach boiling?

Seems easier than finding the buck. lol

 

[Ol' Red]

Only question I have is.......
How long do you leave it in the bleach boiling?

Seems easier than finding the buck. lol

Don't use actual bleach as that softens the skull also, and the bones will fall apart. Use Dawn or another degreasing agent. Low simmer until all of the meat and fat are scraped off the skull and inside the skull. That is usually about four to five hours for me. When that is done I use 40 percent or higher hydrogen peroxide that you get at beauty supply store. Use gloves when handling this stuff with a paint brush. Brush it on and let it sit until it dries. it usually take about three applications on the peroxide for the whiteness that I want.

 

[FireFlyFishing]

Don't use actual bleach as that softens the skull also, and the bones will fall apart. Use Dawn or another degreasing agent. Low simmer until all of the meat and fat are scraped off the skull and inside the skull. That is usually about four to five hours for me. When that is done I use 40 percent or higher hydrogen peroxide that you get at beauty supply store. Use gloves when handling this stuff with a paint brush. Brush it on and let it sit until it dries. it usually take about three applications on the peroxide for the whiteness that I want

Not sure if you watched the vid, but they added the peroxide to the simmer water at the end for about an hour. Looks like it came out well on the vid.

I have a question about the pressure washer method. Do you stand back always from the skull to prevent damage?

 

[Reelamin]

I euro a few every year. I have done Bear, Deer, Elk, Antelope, etc. with mostly Deer/Elk. I use a similar method and just found some things to make it faster and save more bone detail. Key is don't keep it in a rolling boil (heavy simmer) as it will cause the bones to separate and spread apart along all the natural junctions.

Flesh Removal:
I use different sized pots on a turkey cooker, use a ladder over the top, and suspend the head so the antlers are as flat as possible against the water line. Avoids boiling color out and hardness white onto them. No need to fake color them back up.
I add Oxi Clean laundry soap in my water.
I cut a roll of saran wrap about 4" long and use that to wrap all the horn. This will fit under the bur nice and snug.
Secure the saran wrap with electrical tape as this also stretches under the bur. If you boil this too hot and in the water the electrical tape starts to loosen.
I clean a lot more of the fat and meat off before boiling.
Then I power wash it. This is what I use and it has been going for about five years. I used my big 5HP Honda.....yeah strongly urge you not to have more than 15-1600psi and less than 2gal min. Volume is important just leave the industrial in the shop.

1500 PSI 1.2 GPM Cold Water Electric Pressure Washer

1500-PSI 13 Amp 1.2 GPM Pressure Washer

www.greenworkstools.com

CLEAN THE BRAINS OUT BEFORE BOILING! I scramble with a screw driver and use my power washer.
I do not touch my skulls with a scraper only a wire pick at the very end if there is a tiny piece. Pressure washer does it all 90% of the time.
Warning! There are some bones that are super fragile and care will preserve them....most of the time not always.
1: At the back of the nasal cavity just forward of the eye socket is a thin sheet of bone....paper thin. You can shred it with a washer or easily break it with any kind of scraper.
2: Spiral bones going up the nasal cavity from the front. These are full of what ends up being a dark rubbery flesh all the way to just below the eye socket. DO NOT STICK YOUR PLIERS, KNIFE, SCREWD DRIVER, etc. up there and try to pull scrape the boogers out if you want to keep the spiral bones. Pressure Washer, Pressure Washer, Pressure Washer....works perfectly just adjust what nozzle you use.

Whitening: I re-apply the saran wrap. ANYTHING THIS SOLUTION TOUCHES WILL BE WHITE SO PAY ATTENTION AND DETAIL MATTERS. I will tape off the teeth a lot so the dark stains contrast with the all white. I just use an eraser to push the tape into the cracks to lessen it from leaking down on the tooth.
I use 12% Hydrogen Peroxide off Amazon. I buy it by the gallon because I will eventually use it. I then mix Clairol Basic White powder and the Peroxide together to make a thin watery paste. Use a 1/2" brush to brush it on, and pour it down the navel cavity, etc. I put it on fairly thick and you can put a second layer if you hit it as it starts to set up. I have applied this several times, and most of the time it is done with the second coating. I use air hose to blow it off and a brush after it dries. You could soak it off....I just don't take the time to let it dry.

 

[Reelamin]

Not sure if you watched the vid, but they added the peroxide to the simmer water at the end for about an hour. Looks like it came out well on the vid.

I have a question about the pressure washer method. Do you stand back always from the skull to prevent damage?

Yes and no....all depends on the pressure washer. I use a greenworks 1500psi 1.2gpm and never had an issue regardless of distance. Blown a skull apart with my "industrial" pressure washer.

 

[Justice1327]

I just power wash mine with hot water and a little bit of vinegar

 

[jfswanson12]

I do many a year for myself/family. Here is my method.

1st let skinned skull sit in a tub/bucket of water for 1-2 weeks with some dawn or laundry detergent mixed in.

Next time to boil. I use a big crab cooker style burner and a stainless pot. Bring clean water and and again laundry detergent to a boil simmer. While waiting for water to boil I food/saran wrap from the pedicle up the beam and the first tine or 2 then electrical tap over that. This will keep all the coloring in tact and you want have to touch up later. Well worth the little effort. Obviously I'm talking elk but basically just cover anything that could be under or touched by simmering water during the 1st and second boil. Don't worry about covering up some meat or hair. It will steam in the wrap and come off easy later.

So now you're ready to boil. I simmer it until the meat/skin starts to crack and curl on the nose. Then put it comes and time to pressure wash it. Clean it really good and don't be afraid with the pressure. Some knife work and plier work might need to be done. But the pressure washer should get 90+%. Get the brain and everything out. I use a screw driver and brake the ear canal out which helps. If the nose an any time falls off that's fine. Keep it doing the same through the process and glue it on later. You will not be able to tell if you have to go that route

While your pressure washing get a fresh tub of clean water and peroxide boiling. I use 1-2 gallons of 12% depending on the size and age of the skull. The hotter the mix the faster and harder it works. So it's kinda a learning process.

Once the skull is 90+ % clean and your peroxide and new clean water are simmering
Set the skull and nose pieces in if broke off. I use a little wire hook if that happens and hang them on that so they aren't floating around and can easily be found. Let them simmer for maybe 20-30 min. Keep an eye on it as it will vary some depending on your mix and skull. Too long and it will start to etch some. All the left over meat that you didn't get will turn into a gel.

Remove skull once desired whitening is achieved. Remove Saran Wrap and do a final clean up pressure wash on it.

Let dry.

After drying glue nose on if it broke. Small amount of gorilla glue or alike keeping from getting it on the outside then a couple rubber bands around the outside to hold until dry.

Final step. After dry I get a tub of high solids dry brite wax. Re use year after year. I dip the skull in it and then hang dry. I've found 2 coatings to be what I like. Gives it a nice clean sheen and helps hold and neutralize any smells. Also helps keep dust and dirt from penetrating the skull over time.


There's a few personal preference things like I tend to remove all the cartilage like stuff up inside the nose and some around the eye/tear duct area. And so on. Learn what you like