Dented shoulder / occasional not cycling 22 nosler

I have plastic 6.8 mags.

Not certain of the rest of the parts as I don't have it with me at the moment.

I may try to find a steel one before throwing in the towel here.
 
With body diameter being the same (~.002") the mag shouldn't need to be tweaked (unless it wasn't made correctly). That in turn will hold the cartridge in the correct place to not be run over with damage. By the time the bolt lugs get the round out of the mag the hammer reset on the bottom of the carrier should be pushing down on the next round. If damage is done when extraction is occurring, there's pressure at the back/base of the cartridge making the front tip upwards for the bolt lugs to cause the damage.
22N cases have a 68SPC body shape and a rebated rim, therefore the 22N case has more in common with the 6.8SPC case.
65G cases have more taper and that's why Grendel and SPC have specific magazines developed for each of them.
Some 6.8SPC magazines need tuning and it's quite possible that the OP's mags need tuning.
In the link I posted above, Harrison @ AR Performance has done extensive work tuning 6.8SPC magazines as noted in the link.
 
I have plastic 6.8 mags.

Not certain of the rest of the parts as I don't have it with me at the moment.

I may try to find a steel one before throwing in the towel here.
The 6.8 crowd favors metal mags because the feed lips can be tuned and they allow a longer COAL.
PRI being the best followed by CPD and ASC.
 
Last edited:
22N cases have a 68SPC body shape and a rebated rim, therefore the 22N case has more in common with the 6.8SPC case.
65G cases have more taper and that's why Grendel and SPC have specific magazines developed for each of them.
Some 6.8SPC magazines need tuning and it's quite possible that the OP's mags need tuning.
In the link I posted above, Harrison @ AR Performance has done extensive work tuning 6.8SPC magazines as noted in the link.
I saw the pic above (earlier page) as I have both the 6.8spc and 6.5gren, just don't have a 22n. Not only is the case taper different then body diameter is smaller than the 6.5g. I haven't shot either lately and would need to check which mag and brands they are. None have had any denting or damaged brass.
 
This shouldn't be too complicated to fix. The issue appears to be the bolt over-riding the base of the case, as has been said by several. This is probably due to the rebated rim of the 22N, the bolt lugs probably barely catch the rim of the case, and sometimes, with some cases, just skips over it. The fix for that would be try a different mag or tweak the feed lips slightly to get the case to ride a little higher.

The other possible cause, you mentioned adjustable gas. It's possible that the bolt may not always travel back quite far enough to catch the rim.

As far as differences in 6.5 vs 6.8 mags, I have a few of each, ASC I think, and there's no measurable difference between them.
 
IF, bolt speed is the issue it shouldn't be damaging the cases. The carrier has a long slope at the rear to reset the trigger, but the front is minor which should catch the base and push down on the cartridge to keep the bolt from dragging/damaging the brass. Has anyone checked the back and front feedlips on measurements that have successful and reliable feeding? The info I have from h/s doesn't cover duel fed mags.
 
IF, bolt speed is the issue it shouldn't be damaging the cases. The carrier has a long slope at the rear to reset the trigger, but the front is minor which should catch the base and push down on the cartridge to keep the bolt from dragging/damaging the brass. Has anyone checked the back and front feedlips on measurements that have successful and reliable feeding? The info I have from h/s doesn't cover duel fed mags.
Related rims and an AR are not a best practice. It does make them finicky. Bolt speed and mag have to be just right. Part of what makes our hobby both fun and frustrating at the same time
 
IF, bolt speed is the issue it shouldn't be damaging the cases. The carrier has a long slope at the rear to reset the trigger, but the front is minor which should catch the base and push down on the cartridge to keep the bolt from dragging/damaging the brass. Has anyone checked the back and front feedlips on measurements that have successful and reliable feeding? The info I have from h/s doesn't cover duel fed mags.
The problem is that if the bolt misses the base, on a rebated case it can still catch in front of the extractor groove and push the case forward. This can be caused by the case sitting too low, or the bolt not traveling far enough back. I think I read that polymer mags were being used, IMO this is the most likely cause of the issue.
 
The problem is that if the bolt misses the base, on a rebated case it can still catch in front of the extractor groove and push the case forward. This can be caused by the case sitting too low, or the bolt not traveling far enough back. I think I read that polymer mags were being used, IMO this is the most likely cause of the issue.
Agreed! Metal mags should be way better that poly on 6.8 and 6.5's. Didn't think about short stroke cause.
 
Agreed! Metal mags should be way better that poly on 6.8 and 6.5's. Didn't think about short stroke cause.
Stroke is important. Great example is mine in an earlier post. Drop bolt from lock back and it will miss the Rim sometimes and catch on the extractor groove causing a jam and ruining the case. Pull it all the way back and let it fly and it feeds 100%. Feeds 100% from mags shooting it now too. Finicky, oh I said that already. There are better desig s on the 6.8 case for a .22, but it works fine and is very accurate when you get it running
 
Rather than spend time troubleshooting, with 4 kids and another AR that functions good enough for my minimal shooting I think I'm just going to sell this as is.

Any thoughts on a fair price for how it sits?

I will include the brass, dies, mags, etc.
IMG_5791.jpeg
 

Attachments

  • IMG_5790.jpeg
    IMG_5790.jpeg
    307.8 KB · Views: 10
Have you ever built or modified an AR?

What is the buffer weight? Looks like a rifle length gas system?

I see it does not have an Adj gas block…that would help you tune this.
 
Have you ever built or modified an AR?

What is the buffer weight? Looks like a rifle length gas system?

I see it does not have an Adj gas block…that would help you tune this.
I've put one together now piece by piece but don't know about the details you're asking.

Any thoughts on a selling price?
 
Top