Bullet Recommendation for 300WSM

Tiny Tim

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Have a friend that has a Tikka 300WSM with a 1:11 twist barrel (advertised). Shoots 165 grain factory ammo well, but anything heavier begins to open up increasingly as bullet weight increases. Shoots sub moa with 165 gr, 1.5 moa with 180 grain, and 3-4 moa with 200 grain.

He's planning and elk trip with family and I'm wondering what you would recommend. Personally, if going light for caliber, I'd probably recommend a bonded or copper construction. Distances likely inside 400. He'd be open to handloads and I can help with that.

What say you all?
 
Have a friend that has a Tikka 300WSM with a 1:11 twist barrel (advertised). Shoots 165 grain factory ammo well, but anything heavier begins to open up increasingly as bullet weight increases. Shoots sub moa with 165 gr, 1.5 moa with 180 grain, and 3-4 moa with 200 grain.

He's planning and elk trip with family and I'm wondering what you would recommend. Personally, if going light for caliber, I'd probably recommend a bonded or copper construction. Distances likely inside 400. He'd be open to handloads and I can help with that.

What say you all?
Nothing is wrong with what he uses; know and stay within its limitations. We all have different experiences and bullet preferences; even though I have a good inventory of bullets (leaded and lead-free), Berger bullets are my go-to bullet. For the .300 WSM with 1:11", I would load the 190 Berger VLD. The reality is most hunting bullets will work for elk at 400Y with proper shot placement, so there is no need to complicate it unnecessarily.
 
Nothing is wrong with what he uses; know and stay within its limitations. We all have different experiences and bullet preferences; even though I have a good inventory of bullets (leaded and lead-free), Berger bullets are my go-to bullet. For the .300 WSM with 1:11", I would load the 190 Berger VLD. The reality is most hunting bullets will work for elk at 400Y with proper shot placement, so there is no need to complicate it unnecessarily.
Not certain of his shooting situations is why I went the route of tougher construction. All the bullets he's tried are more conventional (no eldx/m or vld types). Next time I see him I'll verify his twist rate. Calculators suggest it should stabilize better than it does. Perhaps a classic hunter?
 
Not certain of his shooting situations is why I went the route of tougher construction. All the bullets he's tried are more conventional (no eldx/m or vld types). Next time I see him I'll verify his twist rate. Calculators suggest it should stabilize better than it does. Perhaps a classic hunter?
Even the conventional, i.e., Nosler partitions (I was a long-time NP, NAB, NBT user before transitioning to Bergers), should work. How it is reloaded and finding the right combination of powder, primer, seating depth, etc., is another story. As with anything else, YMMV.

It is probably a good idea to verify the twist. Some of the newer Tikkas in .30 cal are now 1:10." The 1:11" in .30 cal are standard in most European nations. My SAKOM995 is 1:11", and the heaviest I load is the 190 Berger.
 
He's not inclined to modify the rifle for sentimental reasons.
I would not, either sentimental or not until it is due for a re-barrel. In 2004, I wanted a faster than 1:11" on my SAKOM995 in .300 WM. The gunsmith asked how it shoots, and when I showed him the group, he said, "When it is no longer like this, come see me." In 2012, I harvested a Montana bull elk at 931Y with it using 190 Berger VLD.
 
Forget the twist and shoot different bullets. Factory try the basic bullets from Fed RP WW Hor they will kill anything he is shooting at. Reloading same thing I am not a fan of target bullets for hunting stuff I eat. Use search and you will find 1000's of posts on what bullet people like and common advice.
 
Nothing is wrong with what he uses; know and stay within its limitations. We all have different experiences and bullet preferences; even though I have a good inventory of bullets (leaded and lead-free), Berger bullets are my go-to bullet. For the .300 WSM with 1:11", I would load the 190 Berger VLD. The reality is most hunting bullets will work for elk at 400Y with proper shot placement, so there is no need to complicate it unnecessarily.

I agree with FEENIX. Within 400 yards, any of the available bullets from 150 grain to 200 grain will work. Elk are not armor plated. They sometimes don't know when they are dead, but there is nothing a bullet can do about that unless you hit the CNS, and then it doesn't matter if it is a cup and core, bonded, or mono-metal, the elk is going down.

In regards to the accuracy of the gun using heavier bullets, are you sure it is the gun? Heavier bullets mean more recoil. I have seen quite a few people claim their guns "don't like heavy bullets", but when that gun is put in the hands of someone who has good fundamentals and is used to heavier recoil, it shoots just as good as with the lighter bullets. This is not to disparage your friend at all, it is just to confirm that it actually is the firearm and not the shooter.
 
Not certain of his shooting situations is why I went the route of tougher construction.

I feel you on this. Full frontal at 100yd, or quartering toward at 50yd? It's nice to full confidence that a bullet set on a path through the vitals is goona make it there, and do some damage along the way.

If the rifle likes light bullets, might as well go with it an use an all copper construction - with impacts over 3000fps, there is no comparison. Unless they are bonded, lead bullets just get too frangible for anything but a broadside (ribs) shot, in my opinion.

Copper bullets have the opposite problem - performance drops off with velocity and by 2000fps or so wound channels get really small. Barnes struggle with low velocity performance from what I have seen, but Hammer and Cutting Edge shed the nose (like a partition) and do a lot better, especially at moderate velocity (2400-2500fps).

Just my opinion here, take it or leave it. For context, I was a heavy and slow guy for years. Had 2 300wsms and shot the 215gr Berger in both.
 
Shot a 300 wsm with 165s for a lot of years, was my main squeeze for almost a decade and several barrels. First tube was like the one you described and liked up to about 165 and started to trail after that. Never felt like it over drove the bonded bullets, had some 150 ballistic tips tear up some game we jumped a little close but the 165 accubond did just fine in everything it was sent at. Would think almost any hunting bullet from core lok to a frame and everything in between would be just fine. Find what's local and shoots good and call it a day.
 
I agree with FEENIX. Within 400 yards, any of the available bullets from 150 grain to 200 grain will work. Elk are not armor plated. They sometimes don't know when they are dead, but there is nothing a bullet can do about that unless you hit the CNS, and then it doesn't matter if it is a cup and core, bonded, or mono-metal, the elk is going down.

In regards to the accuracy of the gun using heavier bullets, are you sure it is the gun? Heavier bullets mean more recoil. I have seen quite a few people claim their guns "don't like heavy bullets", but when that gun is put in the hands of someone who has good fundamentals and is used to heavier recoil, it shoots just as good as with the lighter bullets. This is not to disparage your friend at all, it is just to confirm that it actually is the firearm and not the shooter.
Shot placement is paramount..... no matter what range....
 
I've tuned 3 Tikka 300 WSM's for friends and have used the 168 TTSX bullets in all three. I had best luck with IMR 4350 or H4350 and velocity has been over 3100 FPS. 5 shot groups were 3/4" or less in all three. In short, all three of these rifles are as accurate as my custom 300 WSM and the cost of all three of those factory guns is still less than my custom.
 
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