300wm loaders help me

I'm currently using this beast as my tactical comp gun shooting it suppressed. Bad time to send it out for set back, only other gun I have is custom 308 thats great but the 300 is a serious cheat when shooting wind with 210 berger or 208 amax's. Who would you guys send the bolt to for m16 extractor that isn't back logged a year? It needs that done regardless of barrel set back or re-barrel, polish or diff sizing technique. By the way you guys are really good bunch of guys helping me out. Your all top notch in my book, I would be honored to shoot with anyone of you if your ever in the blackfoot idaho area give me a hauler, thanks again, Shane.


I recently received a Remington Bolt with a Tubb M16 Extractor installed by the guys at Superior Tactical Solutions out of KY. Bolt is finished nicely and appears as if bolt was orig designed for this, ill give him a call and PM you more information if you'd like. Shot a match the other month with a .308 and after 45mph+ winds, I was wishing I brought the 300... :D
 
Last edited:
I recently received a Remington Bolt with a Tubb Sako Extractor installed by the guys at Superior Tactical Solutions out of KY. Bolt is finished nicely and appears as if bolt was orig designed for this, ill give him a call and PM you more information if you'd like. Shot a match the other month with a .308 and after 45mph+ winds, I was wishing I brought the 300... :D


please do and did you have to mess with headspace when changing the bolt?
 
Shane1,
I had the same problem with reloads that I felt was at a starting load, changed bullets, powder, did my case work and problem was still there.

So I took rifle to my smith and he polished the chamber for $40.00, problem solved, shoots great now.
 
Just a note on dies- I measured the amount my FL dies set my cases shoulder back and it was over .020". That amount of resizing I felt was excessive so I set the dies up to only bump the shoulder about .003 now.

You may want to measure how far back the shoulders are being bumped. I use a 40 S&W case to check it.

I use the Innovative Collet die when the cases get snug or when I make sure-fire hunting ammo. I FL size all the time.
 
please do and did you have to mess with headspace when changing the bolt?

Shane,

PM Sent. Nope the headspace remaining the same as with the Mini 16 extractor the lugs arent touched so all remains normal. The Mini 16 allows the extractor to be placed close to the lug for optimal "bite" on case and smooth extraction and angle. 15 Day turn around aswell...
 
Shane,

PM Sent. Nope the headspace remaining the same as with the Mini 16 extractor the lugs arent touched so all remains normal. The Mini 16 allows the extractor to be placed close to the lug for optimal "bite" on case and smooth extraction and angle. 15 Day turn around aswell...


I mis-understood I thought you got a replacement bolt, sorry.
 
Not a problem, those can be done as well... but barrelled action would be needed for that.
 
Shane1,
I had the same problem with reloads that I felt was at a starting load, changed bullets, powder, did my case work and problem was still there.

So I took rifle to my smith and he polished the chamber for $40.00, problem solved, shoots great now.


I'm hoping this will solve my problem as well, deffinatly the cheapest route.
 
I have a recently purchased Rem 700 Milspec in 300WM. Loaded with 76.5 Gr H1000 or 79 Retumbo with 210VLDs, Norma brass I get 4-5 reloads with neck sizing only. No issues at all. Sounds like it might be an out of spec chamber. Might try some different brass to be certain its not your brass. In any case, the basic rifle design should work. I'd send it back to Remington and have it checked/fixed.IMO
 
The last M16 extractor I had installed was done by "Grit" on this site. He is a sponsor and his business name is "Deadly Precision" He is located in Id. I know he is much busier these days, but he did mine with a minimal turn time.

That said I would attack your problem in this order.

1: Get the sizing and shoulder bump to where I would want it for every round I hand loaded, with precise shoulder set back.

2: Polish chamber

3: Install a fool proof extractor like a M16 style so I had some serious pull on the case if needed.

Jeff
 
A friend had a 300 winmag 5R that the same issues. He called up Remington warranty and told them what it was doing. They did not argue one bit with him and sent him a RMA number to send it in to get fixed. No questioned asked.
 
A friend had a 300 winmag 5R that the same issues. He called up Remington warranty and told them what it was doing. They did not argue one bit with him and sent him a RMA number to send it in to get fixed. No questioned asked.


I would love to send it to them except I replaced the trigger with a timney and threaded the barrel for suppressor, don't think they will be to impressed. I talked to them, they told me from my description that it was within spec, built to shoot factory ammo which it does fine.Said they would check it and if found out of spec whatever they consider that in the chamber they would take care of it as long as the rifle has not been modified. I also have it in a Mcree chassis and sold the hs stock it came with.. Pretty sure it qualifies as modified. I would be scared to see what they sent me back.
 
The last M16 extractor I had installed was done by "Grit" on this site. He is a sponsor and his business name is "Deadly Precision" He is located in Id. I know he is much busier these days, but he did mine with a minimal turn time.

That said I would attack your problem in this order.

1: Get the sizing and shoulder bump to where I would want it for every round I hand loaded, with precise shoulder set back.

2: Polish chamber

3: Install a fool proof extractor like a M16 style so I had some serious pull on the case if needed.

Jeff


I'm going to do some sizing and give her a polishing tonite. One recommended cutting a case, drill and tap it and using it to polish chamber. How would you do it?

Soon as I can part with the bolt for a couple weeks it will get the m16 extractor or a new ptg bolt.
 
I'm going to do some sizing and give her a polishing tonite. One recommended cutting a case, drill and tap it and using it to polish chamber. How would you do it?

Soon as I can part with the bolt for a couple weeks it will get the m16 extractor or a new ptg bolt.

The new bolt would require the lugs to be lapped in and head space set on the barrel. That would not be what I would do at this time. If you were rebarreling or a set back then yes.

The case and fine compound will work. Or I have used a tight fitting bore mop, some compound and added a wrap with some thin cloth as needed too. I used JB paste for compound. I powered it with a cordless drill and a section of old 22 cleaning rod that screwed together. Crude for sure. Take great care to not get into the throat area and do two very thorough cleanings after including the bore. I was having extraction issues with a rusty chamber on a old family rifle. It worked great.

Jeff
 
Warning! This thread is more than 11 years ago old.
It's likely that no further discussion is required, in which case we recommend starting a new thread. If however you feel your response is required you can still do so.
Top