300wm loaders help me

You guys a have a wealth of information that would take a guy a lifetime to learn, So your cases measure the same 1/2 thou as mine so that tells me I shouldn't worry about that, maybe just a slight polish on the chamber and use a body die? or not polish at all and use a body die? I've been using redding dies but they are the standard fl set and regular neck size die that i polished down the expander to give me the 2 thousandths neck tension. I have to really cam them hard in the fl sizer to get the body 1 thou smaller and in doing so it's bumping the shoulder to much. sounds like the body or collet die would help. or should I get the stepped shell holders for my current fl die? maybe my die is cut slightly wrong. The case I painted which was once fired from new didn't rub any paint off shoulder only right above the belt so if I full length size that case that apparently doesn't need the shoulder bumped it will bump it to far before it sizes the body down. If I polish the chamber slightly I may not need to size the body as much and everything may come together, what ya think??? Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge, Shane.
 
I've been using redding dies but they are the standard fl set and regular neck size die that i polished down the expander to give me the 2 thousandths neck tension.
How do you measure neck tension?

I ask 'cause I don't know why anyone would polish an expander ball down as that usually ends up with smaller case mouths than what's good. 2 thousandths neck tension typically means to use a neck sizing bushing that's 2 thousandths smaller than a loaded round's neck diameter.
 
Even though many only neck size I may try FL every time. I FL all my brass for my 300WM as the chamber is fairly tight and doesnt over work brass. This helps with case to case volume. It seems like after skimming over the posts you have an out of round chamber. It stinks that the rifle fires fine as Remington probably wont be interested in fixing an issue unrelated for the standard operation of the firearm. (Even though an OOR chamber is un-sat)

Are you thinking or rechambering or shooting as it is until it needs a new one?
 
I would try evenly polishing off the top of your shell holder .001 or .002 at a time to get a little more sizing done.

Also, I feel your extractor may be failing you a bit as well. If the case is not stuck that hard it should extract.

Just my thoughts at this point on your original issue.

Jeff
 
How do you measure neck tension?

I ask 'cause I don't know why anyone would polish an expander ball down as that usually ends up with smaller case mouths than what's good. 2 thousandths neck tension typically means to use a neck sizing bushing that's 2 thousandths smaller than a loaded round's neck diameter.


I was measuring the inside neck diameter after sizing and the bullet exterior. Probably only smoothed out the expander more then anything I doubt I took much material off the expander, I polished it more for less friction then actual neck tension.
 
I would try evenly polishing off the top of your shell holder .001 or .002 at a time to get a little more sizing done.

Also, I feel your extractor may be failing you a bit as well. If the case is not stuck that hard it should extract.

Just my thoughts at this point on your original issue.

Jeff


I will give that a go, pretty cheap to ruin shell holder versus screwing up the chamber.
 
Even though many only neck size I may try FL every time. I FL all my brass for my 300WM as the chamber is fairly tight and doesnt over work brass. This helps with case to case volume. It seems like after skimming over the posts you have an out of round chamber. It stinks that the rifle fires fine as Remington probably wont be interested in fixing an issue unrelated for the standard operation of the firearm. (Even though an OOR chamber is un-sat)

Are you thinking or rechambering or shooting as it is until it needs a new one?


It shoots to dam good now to rebarrel. I was just hoping to make reloading a little easier opearation in the mean time. Remington could care less about the chamber, They told me they build guns to function with factory ammo not for ease of reloading. Said to seek a good smith.
 
You could set the barrel back and have the chamber recut.
Doing so solves all of your brass and extraction problems.
I did that to my old VLS in 308 and it shoots with any rifle now.
 
I thought your original problem was that you could not re-chamber a fired case without it sticking.......you should solve this issue first before getting side tracked by reloading die reccomendations.

I would have someone take a hard look at your chamber and replace th extractor, once you can cycle a fired case then make die adjustments as necessary, if you keep changing to many variables you'll never nail the issue.

I use redding competetion bushing dies in mine, it has a tight chamber and I had to full length resize once fired brass from my last barrel before they would chamber but now I can only neck size without issue.
 
I thought your original problem was that you could not re-chamber a fired case without it sticking.......you should solve this issue first before getting side tracked by reloading die reccomendations.

I would have someone take a hard look at your chamber and replace th extractor, once you can cycle a fired case then make die adjustments as necessary, if you keep changing to many variables you'll never nail the issue.

I use redding competetion bushing dies in mine, it has a tight chamber and I had to full length resize once fired brass from my last barrel before they would chamber but now I can only neck size without issue.


You are correct I can't rechamber a fired case.
 
You could set the barrel back and have the chamber recut.
Doing so solves all of your brass and extraction problems.
I did that to my old VLS in 308 and it shoots with any rifle now.


I think this would take care of the problem for sure, I was hoping there was a cheaper route with maybe minimal polishing or something before having to set back and rechamber.
 
I think this would take care of the problem for sure, I was hoping there was a cheaper route with maybe minimal polishing or something before having to set back and rechamber.


Im willing to bet you could find a factory take off barrel for close to the same price if not less then a cut, thread, re-chamber ect.... just my .02.
 
I'm currently using this beast as my tactical comp gun shooting it suppressed. Bad time to send it out for set back, only other gun I have is custom 308 thats great but the 300 is a serious cheat when shooting wind with 210 berger or 208 amax's. Who would you guys send the bolt to for m16 extractor that isn't back logged a year? It needs that done regardless of barrel set back or re-barrel, polish or diff sizing technique. By the way you guys are really good bunch of guys helping me out. Your all top notch in my book, I would be honored to shoot with anyone of you if your ever in the blackfoot idaho area give me a hauler, thanks again, Shane.
 
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