Your favorite FFP reticle for hunting…

[Dragoon300]

Tremor 3
Has many helpful tools built in it, like wind dots.
mil rad
(base 10) much easier / quicker
1 mil =
36" @1000 yards / 40" @ 1000 meters
18" @ 500 yards / 20" @ 500 meters
3.6" @ 100 yards / 4" @ 100 meters
.1 mil =
3.6" @ 1000 yards / 4" @ 1000 meters
1.8" @ 500 yards / 2" @ 500 meters
.36" @ 100 yards / .4" @ 100 meters

 

[Greyfox]

Just an observation. Being primarily a whitetail hunter with dawn/dusk being a frequent low light condition, I find myself using illumination far more frequently with my FFP scopes. The issue has been that the usually red-lit reticle has to be set quite faintly in order to not wash out the target/sight picture. My ZCO 420 has a switchable green illumination setting which I gave a try. While I'm set this may vary by individual, the I personally found using the green illumination far easier with little washout, even at higher brightness levels. Must be why they include it.

 

[Mike Matteson]

This is off the subject some, but. I am looking for Picatinny Rail Canted. I can find Picatinny rails, but not canted. It's talked about, but I have looked the net over and can't seem to find one that's canted.

 

[Crusty Buck]

I'm sure this has been asked a thousand times on here but I'm fixing to purchase my first FFP scope for hunting and Saturday long range matches at a gun club, would like to hear your favorite reticle for this…

I like your choice of cartridge. The 700 is an icon, but some need their actions trued for precision shooting. As far as scopes go, I see a lot of Night Force and Leupold at the shoots. I also see high end Vortex and Sightron. I have seen one Smidt & Bender. I use a 10-50 x 60 Sightron. Japanese glass and very repeatable. Lifetime warranty to anyone. $1000.00

 

[Pro2A]

I'm sure this has been asked a thousand times on here but I'm fixing to purchase my first FFP scope for hunting and Saturday long range matches at a gun club, would like to hear your favorite reticle for this…

Actually, 3,281 times.....plus yours, and counting, I'm sure. Thanks for keeping it going. Tremor seems to be the "real shooter's" wet dream. Todd Hodnett being it's Dalai Lama. Takes one's breathe away for maybe performance, certainly for scope up charge. One has to be a MIL man to select Tremor. MOA guys are SOL. Other than the Tremor, which is offered by several manufacturers, one basically chooses the scope preference, then takes his second pick for reticle in whatever that manufacturer offers that most closely strikes his application fancy. Most manufacturers offer my preferred Christmas tree styles for actually taking the shot. But, in those scenarios where I can't get on a spotter or binos for spotting, watching, making shoot decisions, they are a little irritating due to FOV clutter. It is a trade off I live with for the actual purpose of the shooting scope. Prefer to dial solution for drop; hold on the horizontal stadia for wind when time is not critical. But, the tree works for time sensitive drop and wind holds or quick follow-up impact corrections. I like illuminated reticles, preferably green, for low light, reticle contrast. FFP low power scenarios make the tree, or most all save the most basic reticles, border on useless, and a Guber PITA. Be sure to try the specific scope you consider before purchase. Know your application needs. I've picked up a **** load of great deals on "first purchase gently used" FFP scopes that were purchased and quickly dumped at a loss because of the low power visual reticle disappointment syndrome. Buy once; cry once; happy ever after......only if you did your proper due diligence. One tends to prefer what one was imprinted on.......religion, sport teams, Ferrari/Yugo, beer/scotch, wild women/preacher's daughters (OH, but, I repeat myself...ask me how I know), MIL/MOA, SFP/FFP, scope brand, reticles.......lazy creatures of habit we are. Selecting gear is a lot like hunting. It's not the kill, it's the hunt I'm addicted to. Welcome to the addicted masses.

 

[Pro2A]

This is off the subject some, but. I am looking for Picatinny Rail Canted. I can find Picatinny rails, but not canted. It's talked about, but I have looked the net over and can't seem to find one that's canted.

That's because, I imagine, you seek sloped rather than canted. You might find canted rails in the blemish/defect offerings. In rifles/shooting, canted generally means left/right tilt.....a No-No for hitting at long range. Slope indicates vertical up/down, an enhancement for extended ballistics. 20, 30, 40 or more MIL/MOA sloped rail/mount systems are offered by most rail/mount manufacturers. Many integral rifle pic rails have slope machined OEM. It's all in the terminology.

 

[jfolanddvm]

1. I like a floating center illuminated cross - I find it allows me to focus subconsciously. I prefer it to a dot.
2. I like a clear top field for FOV
3. I like windage hashes for definite holds. That's the real trick in shooting. Drops are just math. Holds are art.
4. I mostly dial elevation, but having a bit of hash for elevation hold is appreciated
5. I like having my eye drawn to the center. So thicker outer posts that point to thinner inner wires that lead to the illuminated central cross.
6. I prefer the function of FFP, as long as the erector isn't >6x (+/-). I think for most situations, SFP is ok. FFP induces weight. But I like the wind hold being the same at any mag. 8x erectors are too fine at low power for my taste in most situations. And I definitely prefer 1x or 2x low ends for hunting (I tend to have to settle for 3x).

Admittedly, I think in yards, so MOA over MIL, but they're interchangeable in reality. Just depends upon what scale you've been raised with.

So to that end, start with a German #4 and modify it.
A NF MOAR or NP-1 are decent and Trijicon's MOA Precision on their 2-10x36 is pretty nice. Leupold had something with their Wind-Plex and Swaro with their 4Wi. Leupold's T-MOA is ok, but just a touch too busy.

I agree with pretty much everything here. I am first a hunter, but shoot a lot of steel at long range (not competitively), so I really like the MOAR on my NF 2.5-20, the EBR-7c on the Vortex Razor Gen II, and the XLR-2 on the Razor HD LHT. All of these give plenty of information for holdover or windage without being too busy in my opinion (tho the EBR-7C is close to my limits), but also have the heavier posts on the sides and lower posts to draw your eye to the aiming point at the lowest magnifications for quick, close shots in hunting situations.
Good luck in your search!

 

[Hand Skills]

st an observation. Being primarily a whitetail hunter with dawn/dusk being a frequent low light condition, I find myself using illumination far more frequently with my FFP scopes. The issue has been that the usually red-lit reticle has to be set quite faintly in order to not wash out the target/sight picture. My ZCO 420 has a switchable green illumination setting which I gave a try. While I'm set this may vary by individual, the I personally found using the green illumination far easier with little washout, even at higher brightness levels. Must be why they include it.

Green illum is really nice. Our human eyeballs are much more sensitive to green light than they are red light.

As a result, if a green light and a red light of the same intensity are compared, the green light will appear MUCH brighter to the human eye.

That is one of the reasons green washes out less.

To say it another way, red light requires significantly more intensity to achieve the same 'apparent brightness' as a green light source

 

[Bangswitch 6x47]

I love the mil-xt, the skmr3, or the ebr7. They all have good subtensions for wind holds, without having so much clutter that you can't spot impacts when shooting steel. I use them for hunting also, because of the ability to hold over and have wind holds. You don't always have time to dial, and theres nothing worse than having to hold in "no man's land " for wind.
Everyone has a preference, and this is mine. It may not suit everyone.

 

[RUFFIAN R - NY]

It's your money get the very best do you like FORD - CHEVY I like Lambo's spend it and like it just too many to pick from now . Straight or illuminated your money you pick MRAD or 5-25x56mmATACR F1 zero MOAR or SWAROVSKI Z8 3.5-28 x 50 w/ brx1 recticle , need to try them all out end result its you and your money good luck picking.

 

[Chas1]

NightForce

 

[Aussie Hunter Steve]

S&B P3L... simple mildot. Uncluttered, intuitive, and only the small centre cross illuminates preventing washout.

 

[Danehunter]

I have a 6.5 PRC Browning X-Bolt Pro. On it sits a Bushnell Elite LRTS 4.5 - 18 x 44 with a G3 illuminated reticle.

The G3 Reticle is a "small Xmas tree" reticle just right for long distance shooting. It gives hunters a way to hold for wind on a hash mark instead of holding "out in unmarked space". Some use the G3 reticle for PRS competition as well.

Since I already use a H59 reticle ("large Xmas tree") for long range competition using a smaller Xmas tree reticle for hunting. is easy and instinctive. NO TURRET DIALING NECESSARY.

I will now only buy hunting scopes that have illuminated reticles. For very cloudy days and dark backgrounds an illuminated reticle is virtually a necessity.

 

[J.J. Weiland]

I'm sure this has been asked a thousand times on here but I'm fixing to purchase my first FFP scope for hunting and Saturday long range matches at a gun club, would like to hear your favorite reticle for this…

MOAR, but I much prefer sfp in hunting scopes.