Reloder28
Well-Known Member
Where do you buy them from and what exactly they supposed to do?
For me it is the type A Redding dies. Junk.
They solved my RCBS Chargemaster from overcharging.
https://www.ebay.com/c/810044878
Where do you buy them from and what exactly they supposed to do?
For me it is the type A Redding dies. Junk.
sure glad I did not buy a chargmaster, Ill stick with the older "slower" way
I always tell new loaders to buy quality equipment right away. If you buy junk up front you'll be upgrading very soon and that initial junk was wasted money and time...ask me how I know!Well said. I totally agree. When I started reloading I spent so much on junk. And ended up upgrading what I just upgraded lol. These forums have a lot of useful information that I wish I would have had many years ago.
Some will probably disagree but that's what makes the world go round.
Mine was to different powder auto dispensers (The RCBS Charge master) I realy thought these would improve my loading time and accuracy, They did not. I bought one and found that half the time was spent dumping error charges. So based on other peoples recommendations I bought another one to speed up the process (Some had as many as 3).
The second one was no better at dropping consistent charges than the first. and only complicated the process. so I set out on a mission to evaluate the powder charging process altogether.
I found that with a very good powder measure and beam scale, speed and accuracy was better than using the charge masters. I loaded 50 rounds with one system and 50 more with the other and it wasn't even close.
I checked each load individually and found the measure and scale came out on top with almost 100 % accuracy. the charge master was close to 20% rejected. Curious as to why, I started dumping more loads and If i waited long enough it would give me an error message and the charge had to be dumped.
Once I got the powder measure calibrated and got my rhythm down there were almost no rejects. I also checked these loads with a digital scale that measures to 0.01 g so there would be no human factor. this confirmed that the beam scale was being read correctly and accurately.
Some feel that this level of accuracy is not necessary and I don't disagree, but when I load, I don't want or need any excuses for poor accuracy and except the human factor as the problem.
So I have reverted back to a simple and time proven method that gets me the most consistent loads in less time with less problems.
I sold both of my Charge masters and have never looked back. and of all the poor choices I have made for reloading this has been the most costly one.
J E CUSTOM
J E, sorry also yours didn't work out. I have one and it's worked great all along. It's not fast but while it's dumping the load I'm usually loading the bullet in the case from the previous powder load. The scale on mine has been really accurate. I keep a 5 gram calibrated weight setting on top of it and if I have any concerns I pop that on the scale and fortunately it always reads exactly as it should. It will occasionaly dump too much powder but that's not been a real problem cause the scale clearly shows it was too much so I just take my little powder scoop and scoop out the appropriate amount which is only one or two tenths of a grain if that and go on loading. It only drops too little if I jar the bench it's on while loading and thats an easy fix as well. I think I've had mine about 4 years. I did have to replace the power adapter once due to an electrical surge that also burnt up a couple other adapters in the house. I got a adapter that you could adjust the voltage on and set it a tad higher and the thing actually speeded up the process but didn't affect the accuracy. However if I'm going to load just a few rounds at a time I don't bother to load up the hopper, I just dump some on the scale using a powder measure type scoop. I only use the hopper any more when I load 20 or more rounds at a time.
I ran into this problem on one of my five Forster Micrometer Seating dies. I took it apart and flipped the spring over and it stopped the clicking. Can't explain why as the springs ends look similar but just slightly different. It works fine now.1. Cheap digital calipers
2. Forster Ultra micrometer seater ( made a circumfrential ring around the ogive and "clicked" with every seating from the very 1st bullet. Sent to Forster, they acted like it was one off, never heard of that. Which was odd. I read in forums searches dozens of threads where the same problem was the topic, but... Played their game and received a new stem that was polished to match my bullet... same thing happened.