Ol, CS, same goes big boy!
We both missed part of the question. I admit I missed the bolt closing and you missed the POI and consistency issue. Better luck next time with your Cheap Shot (CS).
What CS said about cutting trimming either the die or the shellholder is correct IF you cannot bump the shoulder.
However, if your chamber is long and you resize back more than .002 each time, you will eventually work harden the shoulder too, particularily if you go way back as you can with some die/shellholder combos. The key will be as someone else pointed out the amount of springback due to the work hardening. You either adjust the die down more and more to account for the springback or you anneal.
Now if your shoulder is work hardening, you can bet that the neck is also. That will effect your overall consistency and POI which is what I was addressing. Groups will open up and you will tend to get start getting a lot of vertical due to inconsistent neck tension. Even using tight tolerance neck bushings you will work harden and need to anneal eventually to maintain consistency for maximum accuracy.
If you have a set a machinist pin guages you can actually measure the variance in inside neck diameter of your brass AFTER resizing. That is an old trick used by some to sort brass by actual inside diameter if you do not anneal. You can buy the holder and pins on either the + or - side normally. Pick one side and stay with it.
I have done the pin guage routine and it is accurate and works, but takes lot of work. The Ken Light annealing machine is lot faster and easier now.
Like I said, if you are using the K&M arbor press with dial indicator, you can measure the difference in seating force in the necks.
If you have a custom chamber, always ask your smith to make you a "shoulder bump guage" with the reamer. Should not run over $20-25 and is the easiest way to measure the bump.
BH
