Wind Adjustment Methods / FFP / SFP

treillw

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Oct 5, 2015
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I'm new to long range shooting and am eagerly waiting for my first long range rifle to be built. The rifle is a .300 win mag weighing in at 7.25 pounds. I've had a pretty hard time figuring out what kind of scope to get to go along with it and still haven't made a decision. To my surprise, it's harder to find a scope that I like than a rifle, for various reasons.

The rifle's main purpose will be long range hunting. Most of it's life will be spent pursing elk and taking muleys that I may come across while searching for elk. I'm trying to setup my equipment to be capable of taking elk out to 1000 yards, my maximum effective range will be determined after I get my rifle by how many bullets I'm able to put through it. I picked that number for everything at this point because I don't want to be limited by my equipment - which I know is very unlikely to happen. :D

After doing a bunch of scope research, I like the idea of getting a first focal plane scope. I have looked at a few and haven't come across anything that I'm in love with at this point. However, I do have some more opportunities to check out some different scopes and reticles over the coming months. If I can't find a FFP scope that I love, I'm considering going SFP. This is where your feedback comes in.

The main reason I want a FFP scope is for making wind corrections. For the elevation corrections, I anticipate being able to dial them into the scope and not need to change that dialed elevation often. There is always the possibility of the animal running a large distance to a different location, which I would then need to re-range and re-dial. But the wind is constantly varying.

I envision being setup on a bull with my elevation and windage dialed for say a 10mph wind, just waiting for him to take a step out from behind a big tree. But he doesn't move. I wait, and wait. The second before he steps out from behind the tree, the wind stops. What do I do? Two scenarios: 1. Assuming that my SFP scope is not on max magnification where it would subtend accurately, I have to break my position and enter the revised wind correction. Hopefully he doesn't go too far in these few seconds and I can still get a shot. 2. I take my FFP scope which is set at 8.327 power and I know that I have x moa dialed into the scope, so in a second I can hold x moa on the reticle to make the correction and pull the trigger. In my mind, that is the main draw to the FFP.

To help me make my scope decision, I would like to learn more about how you deal with wind while long range hunting.

  • How do you calculate your corrections? (Wind meters, vegetation obseravtions, etc)

  • Do you dial or hold your corrections?

  • Do you often modify your corrections after their initial calculation?

  • Do you use FFP or SFP?

  • Do you ever adjust for headwinds or tailwinds? - watching a video, a 10mph head or tailwind is enough to make you miss a deer at 1000 meters. This was very surprising to me.

I know that there are a whole host of arguments about FFP vs SFP, but for the purposes of this discussion, I'd like to stick to wind adjustments. Correct me if I'm wrong, but I see wind corrections as being the big area where the FFP would be better suited. Spotting your shots and making corrections theoretically can be done with either scope on any power, if you hold your correction with the reticle. Correcting for drastically different ranges if the animal moves will require added time to range it and calculation a solution - dialing the correction isn't that much more cumbersome in my mind.

Up until this point, my hunting career has involved putting the cross hairs on the PA whitetail at 100 yard and pulling the trigger. I have successfully been to CO and MT elk hunting multiple times with the bow and rifle, but never with expectation of long range shots. This is new to me, but I can't wait to get my rifle out on the range and learning everything that I can. Thank you very much for your insight and for helping a young man get into this wonderful sport!
 
Well that's kind of a lot of question and I not sure I can do it justice but here is what I do. I try not to have to hold more than 1 MOA wind (give or take a little). My reason for this is that the gestimation can get to be too much and the room for mistakes gets to be too small if I get over that. Also if I was taking a long shot at game and I wasn't dialed quite close for wind and I only had a second or two to make the shot I think I would just wait for another chance. For me holding wind is for following up a miss or a bad hit and I try to dial for the first shot and get it as close as I can. Its just that too little makes too big a difference at that range for me to try to hold any more than just a little wind. All that being said keep in mind that I am not the best long range marksman in the world by a long shot so if you are good enough to hold right on the money every time then you shouldn't hold yourself to my rules. I ges the moral of the story is get what you want and every person has to find out what works best for THEM. There again I do not have a FFP scope but if I were to get another one I would sure try to find one I like because it sure would be nice to have the option just in case. On reading the wind the very best way I have come up with to learn how is go shooting.... lots. So I ges that just means when you get your new gun just go out and start having fun!:)
 
Thanks for your input Eric. You made some good points. I wish I could rent a few scopes to take to the range and test them out to see what I like best. Not many long range shooters around here. It's a big purchase to make not knowing 100% what you're gonna like!
 
I have one of each, and I have been privileged to see folks that are good enough to run their choice very effectively, so I understand their strong feelings.

"FOR ME" FFP is best suited for what most here consider moderate ranges, and small hold offs. If 1000 yards is truly in your wheelhouse I would go SFP.
 
I have done holdovers when winds are 10 MPH and dial them for anything greater.

This boils down to personal preference and for your intended purpose(s).

All of my scope except for my last two purchases are SFPs but I have to admit I am enjoying transitioning to FFP.
 
I have scopes in both styles. All my newer units are FFPs, and I'll probably stick with that for any LR rifle in the future. May I suggest the article on Dialing vs Holding from a few months back to answer some of the questions you posed in your OP. During practice sessions it is good to test your ability using both dialing and holding, to establish which works best for speed when absolutely necessary, vs which is ultimately the most accurate if time permits. The more tools and tricks you are able to master, the better.
 
Dial distance and hold for wind here. Whichever type you choose make sure turrets match the reticle ie; MOA/MOA or mils/mils.
 
I don't take quick LR shots on animals just because they happen to step out into an open area for a couple seconds so the FFP is kinda useless for me. If they happen to step into the woods first... well that's just hunting.

But I notice that the wind often sort or breaths and has a rhythm. I use my wind meter to gauge the wind and watch some noticeable vegetation at least halfway to the shot. If there is a regular lull, or slow moment, I often dial windage on that. Then watch the vegetation for that lull again and take the shot at that time. If I am off a bit and could spot the shot, I visually correct with holdoff for the second shot.

Which kinda brings up a second point. I don't dial the scope way up when shooting. For a 600~800 yard shot, I will often have the scope set to 8 or 12 powder. This way I have a wide field of view to to spot the shot and get back on the animal quickly.

On a 24x power 1 MOA SFP reticle 24x = 1 MOA, 12x = 2 MOA, 8x = 3 MOA, 6x = 4 MOA. I can also still see the MOA hash marks at 6x. Not usually possible with a FFP scope.
 
I have scopes in both styles. All my newer units are FFPs, and I'll probably stick with that for any LR rifle in the future. May I suggest the article on Dialing vs Holding from a few months back to answer some of the questions you posed in your OP. During practice sessions it is good to test your ability using both dialing and holding, to establish which works best for speed when absolutely necessary, vs which is ultimately the most accurate if time permits. The more tools and tricks you are able to master, the better.

Good points, thanks 7Mag. Could you direct me to the article on Dialing vs Holding? I haven't come across this one yet.
 
I don't take quick LR shots on animals just because they happen to step out into an open area for a couple seconds so the FFP is kinda useless for me. If they happen to step into the woods first... well that's just hunting.

But I notice that the wind often sort or breaths and has a rhythm. I use my wind meter to gauge the wind and watch some noticeable vegetation at least halfway to the shot. If there is a regular lull, or slow moment, I often dial windage on that. Then watch the vegetation for that lull again and take the shot at that time. If I am off a bit and could spot the shot, I visually correct with holdoff for the second shot.

Which kinda brings up a second point. I don't dial the scope way up when shooting. For a 600~800 yard shot, I will often have the scope set to 8 or 12 powder. This way I have a wide field of view to to spot the shot and get back on the animal quickly.

On a 24x power 1 MOA SFP reticle 24x = 1 MOA, 12x = 2 MOA, 8x = 3 MOA, 6x = 4 MOA. I can also still see the MOA hash marks at 6x. Not usually possible with a FFP scope.

I didn't mean recklessly taking a quick shot, just to shoot. Sorry if it came across that way. It seems like I'm always waiting for a deer to take that final step so I can pull the trigger, but maybe that's just the type of hunting I do here in PA - it's usually pretty thick with small shooting lanes. I just thought that waiting for an animal to step out of a thick patch in a field is a scenario where you can do your homework to take an ethical shot, but still need to make some adjustments as the wind is always variable and an educated estimation.

Good point about not having the scope cranked up all the way and thanks for the tip on the pulsing wind - makes sense. Thanks!
 
Did you swerve into the forums from some other site? There are several tons of gold to be gleaned from the articles. Also check out the online store, the ballistic calculator, the video archive etc. Whether it has to do with building them, shooting them, or buying them, you can find it here.
 
Did you swerve into the forums from some other site? There are several tons of gold to be gleaned from the articles. Also check out the online store, the ballistic calculator, the video archive etc. Whether it has to do with building them, shooting them, or buying them, you can find it here.

A buddy of mine told me about the forum. I have looked through the store and video library on the main forum page a bit - that's the only area with videos that I've come across. I see that you are from the Lebenon area. I live outside of Pottsville. Are there any local spots to shoot or good stores to visit that I'm not aware of? Does anybody ever offer classes?
 
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