Winchester pre64 model 70 action screw torque specs

[Laguna Freak]

The key is to have a gunsmithing screwdriver set. Don't use your Harbor Freight drivers on guns no matter how good they are.

Don't own any harbor freight tools. I have only 1 rule; Don't buy no junk.

 

[FnSpr1akid]

Hollow ground with a good fit you can put quite a bit.

 

[Greyfox]

I own a few pre-64's. 30-40# on the front and rear action. Very light(enough to hold the plate securely in place(<10#) on the screw under the drop plate. The forearm screw 20-25#. I like to use "Blue" LocTite on all screws. Check torque frequently with un-braked magnums.

 

[Backcountry sports]

I believe it is 35 in-lbs. I know it seems light but they are slotted screws. I recently bought a 2001 M70 Featherweight in 300 WSM that is barely shot and has pillar and glass bedding that looks like a professional installation. I researched online to find torque specs.

Heads up, when I torqued the trigger guard screw to 35 in lbs the magazine floor plate would not open. So, I left the recoil lug action screw at 35 and the others at just snug with blue loctite. I've only shot 20 load development rounds through it so not yet determined if this work-around is ok. I may have to shim my screw holes between the bottom metal and pillars if I need to increase torque. With pillars and glass, I could easily torque to 60+ in lbs with socket button-head screws or even socket head capscrews but they (capscrews) wont give the right "look" that this rifle deserves.

35 lbs I stand the gun barrel up tap it down on floor firmly the torque it to 35lbs your good to go

 

[Will Gray]

The key is to have a gunsmithing screwdriver set. Don't use your Harbor Freight drivers on guns no matter how good they are.

Yes a gunsmith set of screwdrivers is right. If you do not have those get a good screwdriver that fills the screw slot end to end. With the screw out so you can check the fit to the bottom of the slot, grind the blade so it is parallel and fits the screw with some resistance. Good to have it tight enough so a light tap or two force the blade to the bottom of the screw slot. Press down firmly while tightening, keeping the screwdriver in line with the screw. You will be able to torque the screw with no damage to the slot. Save that screwdriver for use only only on those screws. Best to use a torque wrench so grind a bit fits your wrench. I recommend you change all screws to Torex style, getting away from hex head screws (Brownells sells screw sets). No Loctite of any color on my gun screws! Use bits that fit tight. Use penetrating oil on scope base screws from inside the action and tap the bit lightly with a small hammer to shock the screw if more than 30 inch pounds of torque is needed to remove the screw.

 

[epoletna]

Just to say it before someone else does: if you don't know how much to torque the screws you shouldn't be shooting it -- just send it to me. Ha ha.

Love me some pre-64 Model 70s! Looking for a .257 Bob right now.

35-40 is good for the screw under the barrel. Rear screw can be just a little less torque. Do not put more than 10 lbs on the middle screw. It is only there to hold the front of the trigger guard and the bottom of the magazine well liner.

 

[FnSpr1akid]

Why not just go full floating? Get rid of the fore end screw if you bedded it?

 

[RAGGED EDGE]

Buy a set of hex head screws so you know where you're going.

 

[Alibiiv]

Why not just go full floating? Get rid of the fore end screw if you bedded it?

I did float the barrel forward from the boss to the fore end. I was not certain about the results I would get with the screw left it, and also wanted to maintain the esthetics of the rifle. My thoughts are that if I don't like how the rifle
shoots with the screw left in, I can always relieve the AcraGlas from around the boss. Usually I will float the barrel from
4 inches forward of the recoil lug by putting two layers of .010 thousandths pipe wrap tape. I've never bedded a rifle with a fore-end screw before, so I am uncertain about he results.

 

[FnSpr1akid]

My heavy model 70 is a rebarrel without a screw at all. Bedded and floated. It shoots 3/4 moa probably better with a good shooter and a scope. I have had a few where the screw and boss were pulled and they shot well. I have seen other where the screw is pulled and the stock plugged.

 

[beretzs]

I use 30 inch pounds for the front and rear action screws, 15 inch lbs for the front trigger guard and barrel boss screw. It's worked for 9-10 of them.