Wich .300 magnum?

[MontanaRifleman]

l would go with the 300 win mag. the reason is that it has penty of power. dont need the 300RUM. the down side with the RUM is the recoil, you need to hold the gun tighter than usual and that can throw off accuracy, and make you uncomfortable with taking shots.And the the 300WSM is a verry handsome round

I don't hold my 300 RUM tight at all and I get good consistent accurate shooting out of it. On the bench I use a slip-on recoil pad and that helps with shooting multiple rounds.

It's always been my technique to just settle in behind the rifle, butt snug in the pocket of the shoulder and squeeze the trigger, with any rifle I shoot.

 

[FEENIX]

I'll try to focus on some of your questions:

The RUM cartridge is great if you are planning on 800+ yard shots & don't mind a heavy rifle with a brake. With your parameters I would scratch it from the list. The weight, cost, & muzzle blast are totally unjustified at these ranges.

The .300 wsm & .300 Win mag are ballistic clones, so close together you can ignore the differences. Either of these is a step up from where you are now. The .300 Weatherby (that you didn't list) slightly outperforms both the wsm & win mag. All three of these can be fired from medium weight rifles without planning for a trip to the chiropractor & dentist. Ammunition is cheaper for the wsm & win mag than for the Weatherby. After looking at each I ended up with a used stainless Win model 70 in .300 Weatherby, mostly because I got a GREAT deal on it & the .300 Weatherby was a meaningful step up from my 7mm Rem mag. (For a big-game rifle I generally ignore the cost of ammunition as there isn't a lot of it fired after load development & you know the drop-chart.)

For rifles in your price range I would look at nothing but Savage. They have the best expected out-of-the-box accuracy of any moderately priced firearm, have great triggers & a good stock, & they are no longer the world's ugliest rifles. A stainless Savage Model 16 FCSS in .300 WSM weighs in at 7.17 pounds and has a list price of $834. Blued Savages are about $150 cheaper.

I like the Tikka T3 rifles in non-magnum calibers but they are too light for shooting a magnum well. I see people adding weight to the stocks of Tikkas to make them more "shootable" — even in .308. It makes more sense to opt for a gun that weighs a little more to start with & has the weight where it matters than to buy an ultralight & add lead.

Plan on using a LeadSled for bench work. The added 100 pounds of lead lets you practice away without getting beat up & developing a flinch.

Hope this helped.

I like everything you said except for the last statement. I use Lead Sled too but if you put enough counter weight to eliminate recoil instead of reducing it, this is a great way to break a stock. Remember, something has to eventually give in, mostly likely the stock. 10-20 pounds of weight should be sufficient.

Below is my SAKO M995 .300WM with improvised tire chains for weights ...

 

[Buano]

I've been using a LeadSled for years with 100 pounds of lead. Even with that, the sled will move when the trigger is pulled & the recoil pad takes up a lot of the shock. I've never had a problem with stock damage. Perhaps I've been lucky but I think any stock should be able to handle the recoil of the cartridge being fired when there is no backward "give" allowed to leave enough excess strength that the stock will never fail in hunting situations.

 

[FEENIX]

I've been using a LeadSled for years with 100 pounds of lead. Even with that, the sled will move when the trigger is pulled & the recoil pad takes up a lot of the shock. I've never had a problem with stock damage. Perhaps I've been lucky but I think any stock should be able to handle the recoil of the cartridge being fired when there is no backward "give" allowed to leave enough excess strength that the stock will never fail in hunting situations.

Just google "lead sled stock damage" and you'll get quite a few pings, i.e...

I saw a guy that had one of those at the range one time, testing his new Remington 700 BDL in 338 Win Mag. He had about 4 sacks of lead (100 lbs) on the Lead Sled. After 4 shots, the wrist of the stock cracked and he had to quit.

I have considered this for a while. I think that recoiling firearms with wooden stocks need some freedom to move. IMO, you should not try to eliminate all rearward motion in the recoil cycle. Even on lightly built fiberglass stocks, I think that there should be some motion in order not to risk damage to the firearm. (Reloader's Nest Forum - Lead Sled)

Was talking to a customer yesterday who told me that the stock on his .300Win Mag cracked from shooting it on a Lead Sled with 75# of shot on it. (Lead Sled - Stock Damage? - Hunting Chat)

A while back I got a Lead sled to reduce recoil due to an injury. I used it as directed. After about 30 rounds, the stock on the rifle I was shooting cracked at the wrist. This rifle was not a magnum or African style rifle. It was a .260 Rem. After review, I found that recoil has to go some where. If it does not reach the shooter, it is absorbed by the stock and some by the Lead Sled. Also, I found the point of impact was different when the same rifle and load was shot off sand bags. I still have the Lead Sled and use it with bags full of sand not lead. It does reduce the recoil considerably but allows the rifle to recoil some. Just an observation. (Caldwell Lead Sled problems)

Lucky or not, believe it or not, you will at least know the risk/damage possibilities, whether you choose to ignore or heed caution is entirely up to you.

Good luck!

 

[Buano]

Looks like I need to reduce the weight on the sled. FYI: I've never used my LeadSled with a wood stocked firearm & there is no doubt that wood stocks can't withstand the shock a good composite stock can take.

 

[dkhunt14]

Usually a gun has to recoil some or accuracy suffers. Ask any of the guys that built 150 to 300 lb. heavy guns and shot matches with them. They soon disappeared from the firing line. I like the 300 WSM because they are real easy to get to shoot and brass seems to last forever. No belt to mess with. Almost all the Weatherbys and 300 Win. Mags have disappeared in 1000 yard shooting. Almost every one that was cut off and rechambered in 300 WSM out shot what it was before. Matt

 

[Rev.]

300WSM is the way to golightbulb My main hunting rifle is a 300wsm M70 Shadow after all the acc. where added I'm a little over 8.5lbs. Using 150gr AB out 400yds easy & I only use it for WT deer. If I need to get 600+ all I use is 180gr AB.

Pros for me

easy to reload
sub moa
it sure last longer than the RUM

 

[nwolf]

Appreciate the responses, though neither addressed any question I asked. I know there's no reason to move up from my .270 (which shoots best with 130 grn.) I've killed many deer, an elk and two bears with it. I'm always going to keep my beloved .270 and continue killing with it but here you go guys: The reason I'm making to move is simple....I want to! It's just time for a new gun to play with. thanks.
I dang sure don't want a 16 lb. rifle for hunting with, try making a free hand shot with that!

If anybody has any info on the rounds I asked about, make a post.

Actually I did answer, with 300 mag. And yes I shoot off hand very well with this rifle, thats what its made for. The .22 I shot in rifle team weighed 12lbs. The weight is supposed to be hard to hold. It makes the efects of your shaking less pronounced, and the trigger break wont throw the barrel off as much either. Target rifles arent heavy for looks.