Bump your shoulder back 2000. I full length size everyone and bump everyone. If I don't my buddy can't close the bolt on his gun either. It was a real easy fix. And I am using the exact load you are except Fed 210 instead of CCI
Why won’t my bolt close?
- Thread starter rick523
- Start date
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So you are basically making SAMMI Spec ammo not custom made ammo for that specific rifle? And you are bumping shoulders .001-.002 from what dimension?
rick523,
Hey, I didn't read through all the others and perhaps someone mentioned this. Try an RCBS .223 Rem X-Die and neck size off of it, just be sure to bump the shoulder just a touch, you can till when you are setting the die up by watching the lube line as it comes down to the shoulder on the neck makes for a fast reference, test case after each adjustment of the die until you get a comfortable crush-fit. I've had this same problem over time and this was the solution.
I agree it's not....same load I'm using..no pressure....5 of our group all shooting the same great accuracy! Redding makes sets of Precision Shellholders. 5 to the set for easy shoulder bumps
There's nothing wrong with Hornady brass. If you partially F/L size to just size the necks that is the problem. I N/S with a Lee Collet Die and my cases fall in the chamber. Since you are obviously dismayed with that old Bergara and the Creedmoor, send it to me and I'll lighten your load. PM me for address details.
That's what it says in your original post.
DaleJ
Active Member
Set FL die for "your" chamber. I expand neck one caliber to create false shoulder. Then check in chamber by closing bolt on sized round. Continue lowering FL die down until you feel cartridge bottom out in chamber. Now sized perfectly for your rifle chamber. Most die threads 14 tpi. Adjust for clearance you desire. Going with minimal clearance will also indicate when annealing is needed.
greenejc
Well-Known Member
Well, according to the 2019 Hodgdon manual, you're running about 0.3 grains off the maximum for this powder. That means you're at or exceeding Maximum Average Pressures for this cartridge. SAAMI lists the max average pressure at 62,000psi and 41.8 grains of H4350 gives 61,200psi from Hodgdon's test barrel. You'll probably solve the problem completely by just backing off about a grain on your loads. Do it in 0.5 grain increments and re-chamber the fired brass to see if it will chamber easily in your rifle after you've fired it. When all your fired brass will re-chamber, you will be able to go back to neck-sizing it. You might want to check the case diameter at the base and web too, just to see if it has stretched there. But your problem is that you're running your loads hot and its stretching your brass, causing the shoulder to push forward and possibly expanding the base. Back your load down and give yourself a safety margin. Your brass will last a lot longer and you can go back to neck sizing without having brass problems. Also, pressure varies from rifle to rifle. Just because the manual says a maximum should be within safe pressures, that doesn't mean it will be in your rifle. That's why every manual gives a caution about working up to maximum loads. What brand of brass are you using? Some brands of brass are softer in the body than others. I've found Federal brass to be so in both 300 Winchester Magnum and in 30-06. I've had the Federal brass become un-useable after two reloads when loads were 2 or 3 grains off max loads while Remington or Hornaday brass is still re-loadable after 5 or 6 uses. To be fair, some of this Federal 300WM brass is from the Army, and the loads are for 220gr. bullets at maximum pressures, used for sniper training. I have to run them through an FL die two or three times to get them to chamber in my rifles. I've also had that problem with brass fired in semi-auto rifles. I like to neck size also, but I can only do that for my 25-06 and my 6mm Remington, as I have several rifles in each of my other calibers.
One after-thought: before you do anything, fire a few rounds at current load levels and then re-chamber the spent brass. If every round is chambering easily, its in your bullet seating depth. Seat the bullet deeper. None of my manuals list your charge as being compressed, so that shouldn't be a problem. However, your rifle may have a slightly short throat, which could cause some of the cartridges to not chamber if you're trying to seat on the lands.
People still read reloading manuals? Gives you an area I guess but as he mentioned he is .015 off lands so that lawyer safe load in the reloading manual is null and void cause there is a parameter that is different. The OP mentioned nothing about pressure signs or anything to lead to pressure signs. Its simply doing what brass does when it goes boom! If you are under the max load in a reloading manual you are definitely running a mild load in most cases. I normally start ladder .5 grains under max in reloading manuals when I use to use them. Only thing I use manuals for now is trim length. Everything else I find out on my own.
Randy Tidwell
Well-Known Member
For confirming I am bumping the shoulder correctly, I remove the firing pin form the bolt., adjust the die to just bump the shoulder enough to allow the bolt handle to almost drop closed on an sized case. You can not feel if you have bumped the shoulder with the firing pin in the bolt.
If the bolt closes with a slight resistance, I use shims to move the die out .001" at a time.
https://www.brownells.com/reloading...grades/reloading-die-shim-kits-prod33711.aspx
749-001-325WB
Reloading Die Shims for 7/8-14 Dies
Mfr Part: 22400
The shims have notches cut in the side to indicate their thickness, the come in increments from .003 to .010"
Once I find the right amount of bump, I make a note on the die box for how much shim I use.
During sizing the cases, I usually double check about 15-20 rounds in the rifle again.
When I seat the first bullet, I check it again in the rifle (with the firing pin still removed). If the feel has changed on closing the bolt, that usually indicates the seater die is maladjusted or the bullet is jamming the lands.
I never take this setting for granted, always check it again the next time I load for that rifle.
If the bolt closes with a slight resistance, I use shims to move the die out .001" at a time.
https://www.brownells.com/reloading...grades/reloading-die-shim-kits-prod33711.aspx
749-001-325WB
Reloading Die Shims for 7/8-14 Dies
Mfr Part: 22400
The shims have notches cut in the side to indicate their thickness, the come in increments from .003 to .010"
Once I find the right amount of bump, I make a note on the die box for how much shim I use.
During sizing the cases, I usually double check about 15-20 rounds in the rifle again.
When I seat the first bullet, I check it again in the rifle (with the firing pin still removed). If the feel has changed on closing the bolt, that usually indicates the seater die is maladjusted or the bullet is jamming the lands.
I never take this setting for granted, always check it again the next time I load for that rifle.
lancetkenyon
Well-Known Member
No, it originally said "42.5gr H4350". OP edited it to correct the load info.
Very good info! There is nothing worse than getting to the range and feeling different pressures on every round as you close the bolt! With these procedures you will never have that again! There is also nothing like being in a hunting situation and going to chamber a round and it won't chamber. #NEVERNECKSIZINGAGAIN and #LESSONSLEARNED
