458win
Well-Known Member
4ked Horn
Great info there!!
Great info there!!
Which safe to buy
- Thread starter kbb468
- Start date
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sniperVLS
Well-Known Member
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Or do what I do and just don't buy any jewelery. I love being married to a woman that would rather have a new shotgun than a new ring. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif
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How on earth did you manage that!? I would give anything to come across such a woman. I've actually lost girlfriends over firearm purchases. "You'd rather buy this rifle than me a necklace?!"
They don't last long after that /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif
I have a cheapie 2 door Stack-On from Gander for $230.00, but I bought it because it wasnt several hundred lbs. Its serving its purpose until I buy a nice one. And when I do, I'll be heading to this thread and read thru it again for ideas. Thanks in advance.
Or do what I do and just don't buy any jewelery. I love being married to a woman that would rather have a new shotgun than a new ring. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif
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How on earth did you manage that!? I would give anything to come across such a woman. I've actually lost girlfriends over firearm purchases. "You'd rather buy this rifle than me a necklace?!"
They don't last long after that /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif
I have a cheapie 2 door Stack-On from Gander for $230.00, but I bought it because it wasnt several hundred lbs. Its serving its purpose until I buy a nice one. And when I do, I'll be heading to this thread and read thru it again for ideas. Thanks in advance.
4ky, you're a wealth of knowledge!!! Excellant info. It made me run right out to my gun safe and see if it has the appropriate numbers. My safe is an oooooold Mosler Safe Co. unit built for the U.S. Airforce / Army. It's 76" by 51"by 36"deep w/ double doors. Underwriters Lab. tag says, class A fire rated and T20 burglary rated. The Mosler tag says Spec F1-D and SMNA rating 4 hr. It has 11 bolts. From your post It should be OK as a gun safe.(I think) All this info was painted over, but the steel wool fixed it right up. The inside is OD green so I always figured it was surplus. Anyway,if you see something in these numbers that might be of interest let me know. Thanks again O 4ked one.----7mmrhb
Hired Gun
Well-Known Member
I sure like my Fort Knox Titan. It has 20 1-1/2" live locking lugs. The body is 3/16" with an inner box of 10 guage steel making it a safe in a safe. It weighs 1,848 pounds and is fire rated to 1680 degrees for 90 minutes. I like the electronic lock because I can get into it in 3 seconds. I can program up to ten combos so I can give someone temporary access and then delete their code. It has a dehumidifier and a rope light in there so it stays right at 75 degrees in there all the time. It also has a full lifetime warranty including paint. The lock holds two 9 volts so I never have to worry about a dead lock. I just change them when the time changes. I'm sure they will last a couple years with normal use. If I did it again I would have got the stainless option on the inner box. That would make it even more torch proof.
I recently got a power deal on a Liberty Franklin edition. It was a great deal and a good starting point. It is a 50 gun safe and I quickly realized how fast space disappears. This model is fire rated and has the S&G combo lock. It weighs 1200 pounds and is enough to hopefully stay home for awhile.
Thanks 4ked, it is nice to have a locksmith around, love the tagline too.
Thanks 4ked, it is nice to have a locksmith around, love the tagline too.
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My safe is an oooooold Mosler Safe Co. unit built for the U.S. Airforce / Army. It's 76" by 51"by 36"deep w/ double doors. Underwriters Lab. tag says, class A fire rated and T20 burglary rated. The Mosler tag says Spec F1-D and SMNA rating 4 hr. It has 11 bolts.
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My first post. I just had to comment on this Mosler. A 3/8" drill 3 inches left of the dial, punch and hammer. Opens in 3-4 minutes. I'm not a thief but had a near identical safe. I think the feds bought them in bulk.
My safe is an oooooold Mosler Safe Co. unit built for the U.S. Airforce / Army. It's 76" by 51"by 36"deep w/ double doors. Underwriters Lab. tag says, class A fire rated and T20 burglary rated. The Mosler tag says Spec F1-D and SMNA rating 4 hr. It has 11 bolts.
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My first post. I just had to comment on this Mosler. A 3/8" drill 3 inches left of the dial, punch and hammer. Opens in 3-4 minutes. I'm not a thief but had a near identical safe. I think the feds bought them in bulk.
sniperVLS
Well-Known Member
Good grief Hired Gun....
The weight of your safe alone scares me /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif
The weight of your safe alone scares me /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif
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4ked horn what do you think about fort knox safes? what would you reccomend for a good safe around $800-1200?
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I'm not real familliar with the features of all the different brands so I hesitate in reccomending one brand over another. You should get what you pay for in quality assembly, security and looks. If you don't feel that you are then you probably are NOT.
What I would reccomend for a safe around $1000 is have the people in the showroom remove the back of the door so you can look at the workmanship. If the welds look like crap and there is a bunch of welding wire still stuck to the welds or the locking lug joints don't have nylock nuts or cotter pins (look like they might unscrew themselves) or the locking lugs are attached to their drawbar in a feeble manner (that is a big one but I shouldnt say why) then don't buy it. But before you don't buy one look at a few so you become familiar with them and how they should look.
If the sales staff won't remove the back of one of the doors for "security reasons" this would send up a flag. Either they know how crappy it is or this is your first sign of the warrantee service you will get if the safe craps out on you.
It's your money. Spend it wisely.
4ked horn what do you think about fort knox safes? what would you reccomend for a good safe around $800-1200?
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I'm not real familliar with the features of all the different brands so I hesitate in reccomending one brand over another. You should get what you pay for in quality assembly, security and looks. If you don't feel that you are then you probably are NOT.
What I would reccomend for a safe around $1000 is have the people in the showroom remove the back of the door so you can look at the workmanship. If the welds look like crap and there is a bunch of welding wire still stuck to the welds or the locking lug joints don't have nylock nuts or cotter pins (look like they might unscrew themselves) or the locking lugs are attached to their drawbar in a feeble manner (that is a big one but I shouldnt say why) then don't buy it. But before you don't buy one look at a few so you become familiar with them and how they should look.
If the sales staff won't remove the back of one of the doors for "security reasons" this would send up a flag. Either they know how crappy it is or this is your first sign of the warrantee service you will get if the safe craps out on you.
It's your money. Spend it wisely.
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How on earth did you manage that!?
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I just broke up with a girlfriend that I dated for 10 months. During that time I didn't go shooting one single time. What the heck was I thinking? I don't know so I got out. A few months and one rebound girlfriend later I met the woman I married. We go to plays, the park, camping and full auto funshoots. We do it all. And jewelery isn't much fun to see, drive, throw or shoot at anyway.
How on earth did you manage that!?
[/ QUOTE ]
I just broke up with a girlfriend that I dated for 10 months. During that time I didn't go shooting one single time. What the heck was I thinking? I don't know so I got out. A few months and one rebound girlfriend later I met the woman I married. We go to plays, the park, camping and full auto funshoots. We do it all. And jewelery isn't much fun to see, drive, throw or shoot at anyway.
Hey Roland. Safe sounds like a neat safe. It sounds like the one my brother got from a surplus store. Don't go drilling holes in it and avoid the dust from the insulation. There is a good chance it is a mix of asbestos and a binding agent. If the insulation is breaking up do what you can to get rid of it or seal it with sheetmetal and silicone or some appropriate method. My brother got his by offering to haul it away when the owner discovered that it wouldn't sell because of the asbestos.
Mosler did make some good stuff. In fact I believe it is a Mosler (or Diebold) safe that protects the Declararion of Independance every night.
Mosler did make some good stuff. In fact I believe it is a Mosler (or Diebold) safe that protects the Declararion of Independance every night.
Hired gun, I see that your safe is on a small step. That reminds me that I have seen safes in basements and garages that were actually sunk into the floor an inch to make prying them loose from their floor anchors that much more dificult.
It is a fine looking box. Thanks for sharing the info on that brand and model.
It is a fine looking box. Thanks for sharing the info on that brand and model.
4KY the entire inside is lined with sheet metal and is in good condition. I don't see any sign of dust coming out of the seams.Should I be worried? With a T20 burglary rating is Walter right about drilling a hole and getting in,in 3 to 4 min? (Hope not)----7mmrhb
I wouldn't be worried about the asbestos if there is NO sign of dust.
A T20 rating is for making a 4 or 6 inch hole in the door so what he said may be possible. I wouldn't know for sure. I can assure you that the number of people that know if it works on that safe and live in your city are in the single digits. I wouldn't fret.
A T20 rating is for making a 4 or 6 inch hole in the door so what he said may be possible. I wouldn't know for sure. I can assure you that the number of people that know if it works on that safe and live in your city are in the single digits. I wouldn't fret.
