Which neck turning systems does everyone prefer ?

So far my K&M works fine, and to me changing the setup for different calibers has been no big deal. It is something I only need to once, and usually it is about 200 cases at a time. Just curious as to why some feel the ability to change the setup "quickly" is a driving concern.
 
Blake Machine IDOD:

https://fclassproducts.com/the-idod-case-turner

They are great but overkill for 95% of neck turners... I have the above but started with a K&M then bought a 21st Century powered lathe with all the bells and whistles. They are all capable of precision under 0.0003" if used properly. If turning for small volume (under 200cases) I would go simple with the K&M or similar units. Just make sure you get one with a large aluminum handle for the cutter; it will serve as a heat sink and make your results more consistent from the first neck to the last. The other option, which is what I would suggest to the OP, is to have DJ's Brass Service turn them for you. He is very good at it and quick.

https://djsbrass.com/

Another vote for the IDOD or 21st Century.
 
So far my K&M works fine, and to me changing the setup for different calibers has been no big deal. It is something I only need to once, and usually it is about 200 cases at a time. Just curious as to why some feel the ability to change the setup "quickly" is a driving concern.
I agree....set-up does not take long with the standard O.D. turners....it pales compared to the total time to turn 100cases or so. As far as speed when turning necks the 21st Century powered lathe is pretty quick but not much quicker than my K&M with a drill to drive the case. Both are very accurate when used properly with appropriate cooling and lube of the cutter/mandrel.
 
Not being able to find any quality brass for a 25-06 has led me to want to resize Lake City 30-06 brass that I have on hand.
I was told I would definitely have to turn the necks. I have never done this in 40 years of reloading. Am wanting to hear any opinions about who's neck turning systems I should be looking to purchase.
Thanks
Howdy: I have done this brass resizing chase myself. I have a 6mm Rem. built on a '96 Mauser. When I first started loading for it, 6mm Rem. brass was hard to find in my area, so a reloading buddy suggested I reform 30-06 brass. I first annealed the the cases, a little below the necks, then ran them through a 7mm M. f-l die. Next was trimming them close to 6mm length. They were then run carefully thru a 6mm Rem. f-l die. Next, after talking to a couple of benchrester's, I Inside neck reamed the cases instead of out side turning them. {Theory was that inside reaming thinned the neck walls, without chancing cutting the case body.} After all that, they were length checked, and fire-formed with medium loads. Similar steps could be taken for the 25-06. Hope this helps and not confuses...
 
Howdy: I have done this brass resizing chase myself. I have a 6mm Rem. built on a '96 Mauser. When I first started loading for it, 6mm Rem. brass was hard to find in my area, so a reloading buddy suggested I reform 30-06 brass. I first annealed the the cases, a little below the necks, then ran them through a 7mm M. f-l die. Next was trimming them close to 6mm length. They were then run carefully thru a 6mm Rem. f-l die. Next, after talking to a couple of benchrester's, I Inside neck reamed the cases instead of out side turning them. {Theory was that inside reaming thinned the neck walls, without chancing cutting the case body.} After all that, they were length checked, and fire-formed with medium loads. Similar steps could be taken for the 25-06. Hope this helps and not confuses...
This didn't confuse at all, and thanks. But what you have left me wondering along with a few other posts and what I have researched, is this.
The main rifle I want to trim necks for right now is a Browning XBolt (all factory)
Factory chambers are sloppy compared to custom.
So is person better off resizing necks from the inside, allowing a .001 for spring back in the opposite direction as from the outside or ?
My ADD has me wondering
 
This didn't confuse at all, and thanks. But what you have left me wondering along with a few other posts and what I have researched, is this.
The main rifle I want to trim necks for right now is a Browning XBolt (all factory)
Factory chambers are sloppy compared to custom.
So is person better off resizing necks from the inside, allowing a .001 for spring back in the opposite direction as from the outside or ?
My ADD has me wondering
Back to ya...{is too much information, disinformation???} I maybe should have added that the cost of the reamer, extra f-l die, & file trim die, all from RCBS, was more cost-effective to me, and all work was done on my "old-reliable" Rockchucker. After fire-forming, I only neck size, for the next 8-10 reloads. (I don't max load)
 
Well that certainly clarifies things.
I'm headed in a different direction I thinking.
I have ran a file over more saw teeth than you could possibly imagine
The thought of using a flat file (wether single or double cut) over my brass makes me shutter
 
If you can get different cutter set up that once you set a thickness, and not change it unless there needs to be additional adjustment for that caliber neck. I would say what would work. I don't have a K&M setup. So I don't know much about it. I looked at it yesterday. It looked good for what it is. I know it's a pain to adjust a cutter head for a different caliber and go back to what your cutting on another caliber. I know about the costs in getting a 21st Century set up. I just put down $1,800.00 for system. I am lucky to have two boys, and a brother, that are close to me, and they will get to use it too. Hornady only only sell a single cutter set up. You can get different mandrels for it. You have to just the cutter each time you change caliber. Hornady system doesn't allow for additional cutter head assemble set up. Maybe they will wake up and sell the head assemble only without selling the base. 21st Century cutter assembles cost more than the entire Hornady set up. I watch some films on one person that just purchases additional Hornady set up for each caliber. That's gets to be a lot of gear to shelve.
The only reason that this person has bought multiple setups Horandy or otherwise is that he doesn't want to change the adjusted cutting length without cutting into the brass shell case's neck where the neck and the angle meet. This set up plus the the cutter head with the angle either 20 degree or 30 degree ground angle and the change out of the mandrel are the three required changes that need to made in order to neck turn any one caliber.
Obviously this gentleman is uncomfortable making these setups only to change them when he is neck turning a different caliber.
IMHO it is very simple to change out and set up to a different caliber. Typically the change out and adjustments can be made in under 5 -7 minutes.
 
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It is a awesome machine, but if you aren't processing a lot of brass it isn't worth it IMO.....That said nothing like knocking out a 1000 cases in a few hours. :)
Yes, the IDOD is nice. It removes any internal bulges, particularly 'donuts' near the base of the neck which can be problematic in wildcats, much more effectively than a mandrel expanded case externally turned. It is also lightning fast and does not require lube; it is much less messy. But...WAY overkill unless you want to turn necks on the side for profit or you need very large batches of prepped brass. My cases turned on a 21st Century lathe shot the same as those turned on my IDOD. Frankly though case neck turning 'for precision' is over rated in my opinion. It is necessary if you are forming certain cases or choosing to run a tight neck chamber but my results with turned necks are no better on target at 300-1000yds than a properly tuned load/bullet combination using out of the box necks. I know this may rub a few the wrong way but I have tested this (as well as many of my competition colleagues) and we have all come to the same conclusion. Flame away...I wear Nomex undies!:D
 
I do a lot of fire forming with case between 300 Win Mag down to 308 Norma Mags. I will be sizing down to 6mm-06 cases some time next year. I load for 3, 308 norma mag, and 4 different 25/06's. I load for 3 different 338 Win Mags. I use 4 difference case to track which rifle the cases are going too. I use 3 diffecent head stamp, noting 30/06, 270, and 25/06. The forth is a different manufacture of the case. So there a lot of resizing going on. I have some chambers that are tighter and normal. Donuts do cause problems too, and have to be address. Outside cutting of necks is something I feels that needs to be done. Your case necks thickness isn't perfect by any means. Thicker on one side than the other. So now as the case neck expands the thicker side pushes against the side of the chamber more than the other side, pushing the bullet out of line some. I weight all my cases. So anything I can do to tighten up my groups, I will do. It's all in what you want. The person that sizing down 30/06 case, can use 270 case also. A little less work.
 
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