For piston, I would buy the highest quality bolt and upper receiver you can afford to minimize wear and gauering by carrier tilt.
For DI, you'll be using a rifle length gas system, but on a 24" barrel, you will want an adjustable gas block to tune the cycling.
I use both Odin and JP adjustable gas blocks, and find the JP is a much better adjustment system.
If you plan on using a silencer, go piston. Your eyes and face will thank you.
What will really make a difference in your accuracy:
- Your choice of barrel manufacturer and the quality of the chambering
- The squareness of the upper receiver face where the barrel extension mates.
- The strength, sturdiness and alignment of your hand guard, especially if you're using BUIS
- Your bolt. Stay away from cheap Chinesium junk.
- Your trigger. For rapid repeated, look at the Geissele S3G. There are others too.
Finally, tune your ammo. I've been playing with 308 147gr plinkers (i.e. crap bullets) out of a 16" Ballistic Advantage barrel. Standard loading, I'm happy with 1 to 1-1/2 MOA. Playing with a ladder the other night, I found at high velocity, showing pressure signs, I'm <1/2 MOA. So, my plan is to find that velocity using LC 7.62 brass rather than 308 brass.
Edit to add: it's a stretch to call it a ladder, more like OCW group testing, fifty rounds, five rounds at each charge weight, looking for vertical dispersion. The last group, exhibiting high pressure signs, were all touching.
Also note, not all barrel chambers are equal. The BA 308 barrel was tight. Of my "sight in" rounds (20 rounds at 49gr of PP2KMR), all will pass my check by a Lyman case gauge, but easily 1/3 failed to chamber in my barrel (failing the "plunk" test). Evidently I need to invest in a small base sizer.