What process for new brass…

[coastrange]

Graphite lube, mandrel the necks, run everything over the Giraud to ensure all necks are trimmed, chamfered and deburred, nylon brush on the case prep station to remove shavings from the beck surface. And load them.

For me the mandrel step is just ensuring the necks are round before chamfer and debur, nothing to do with trying to set neck tension.

Would you run the Lee collet neck die as I don't have a mandrel die

 

[chav0_12]

I usually at least try to run an expander ball through brass just to get the necks straight and the right size. I have some new Dasher brass that I need to start prepping but I only have a bushing die for it. I might either buy an expander mandrel die for it or just use a different 6mm die and only run the expander ball through it. Since I started buying good brass that's all I'll do, I won't typically go through an actual sizing or even touch the case with any die metal.

 

[Shubey]

So I have a batch of new adg 6.5prc brass. They recommend sizing it and even though their packaging is good the necks have a few dings in them.
So I have a set of hornaday match grade dies and a Lee collet die. What would you guys recommend?
Thanks for any help

Turn necks for easier bullet seating.

 

[Mike Matteson]

New brass never been fired. I go through the brass and see how much the brass varies in length. Set up my case trimmer and cut all to the same length. It also bevels the inside of the neck at the same time.. I turn all my necks for thickness next step. So my stop is set up to stop at the same place each time at the shoulder to neck. Some of my rifles have a reduced neck size. So even a stardard neck won't go into the chamber. That way my cases are consistent. Some rifles I use different case to neck them or sizes them to fit the rifle I reloading for. Some of my rifles are wildcats, so I have form my brass to the chamber. Been told that I should stop in the middle of my resizing the necks to anneal the necks again. do it takes me as many as 4 steps to reduce the neck size, to fit my rifles.
I use Redding bushing dies that I change out the entire die with bushing in, and go to the next step in reduction. I have a turret press. I don't have to change out my die each time. I am setting a rifle with same action. To be able to change out barrels to fireform my cases after down sizing necks.
I also work my primer pockets over as needed. Set my primes to the same depth or within a .001th. I use to weight all my cases, now I am changing over to volume weight my cases.
They say that concentricity is the name of the game.
My biggest problem is. I moving my reloading area to Montana at my sons home. He had a nice place to do the reloading, but his wifle moved into it. so I lost out. Came up with an area to building a reloading shack at my sons place. So I drew up a set pf plans. made a material list. Set up with help including my son to build the shack. The only thing is I don't move so good anymore being 76yrs old. Each time I go back up to Montana, I think I am going to finish it. I also wanted to be able to pick up the building and move it to a different location if I wanted too. I had to really think about it. Placement of reloading equipment and storing it and storing the equipment. Being I haven't built one before, makes it double hard. I would have done things a little different, but that's life. Electric power is on inside and just about to finish the storage areas inside too. I do want to say that inline equipment has help a great amount being able to store and move press or other equipment out on the table to use and move back into storage again and again. Sure will keep the table clear.
One thing for sure I miss reloading and developing loads for my rifles. I reload for rifles pistols, and shotguns.

 

[C-130 Dude]

So I have a batch of new adg 6.5prc brass. They recommend sizing it and even though their packaging is good the necks have a few dings in them.
So I have a set of hornaday match grade dies and a Lee collet die. What would you guys recommend?
Thanks for any help

My efforts are to start at the same point every time. I process my brass the same way no matter if it's new or fired. Full length sizing with bushing. Trim as necessary. But thats just my way of controlling variables. To each, their own.

 

[skipglo]

I treat new brass just like fired brass.

X 2

 

[RichCoyle]

I recently purchased 150 ADG .28 Nosler brass for a wildcat. Just to be sure, I stuck my primer hole uniformer in one. There was a burr. So I cleaned up all of them. None of the necks were damaged in the three boxes I received. All cases are sized to fit the new wildcat chamber.

To your question, I size all new brass.

 

[RichCoyle]

Well if you have a blue printed rig I would square up the primer end of the cases, I have a very old Wilson lathe style trimmer. Then I would turn the necks.

This absolutely improves accuracy. I did many, maybe ten, five shot groups each with factory and squared heads.

 

[FireFlyFishing]

Ok lots of answers just as expected. I just listened to a podcast with adg about new case prep and they recommended doing exactly what you would do with fired brass for consistency.

I've only ever used full length dies, using it intact with expander, but a buddy swore by a Lee collet die so I picked on up.

Now I'm going down the expander mandrel rabbit hole (again) to be honest every web page or thread I read goes back and forth. It's a lot to figure out

I use the Lee collet to neck size as I indicated earlier for new brass. I also use it as the second step after shoulder bumping with a Redding body die. I like this process the best.

After. Few initial firings with the Lee collet and things are starting to get snug I start the two step full length process for the remainder of the brass' life.

 

[FireFlyFishing]

Starline recommends annealing their new brass - I find it makes a difference, particularly if bottleneck brass is bumped. YMMV.

I looked on their website's FAQ page. I didn't see anything about annealing new brass. Can you share the link with that information?

 

[MontanaJack]

For many years, I loaded new brass right out of the packaging. UNTIL the neck ID of a batch of Lapua 6.5-284 brass was so tight that I deformed brass while seating bullets. What a wake up call! Since then I bought 0.001 and 0.002 undersize mandrels for all calibers that I load. Upon opening a new package of brass I do a quick visual inspection of all the brass, check confirm SAAMI length spec on several cases, full length resize all brass, and run all brass over the mandrel that creates desired neck tension. Bottle neck brass only.

 

[ddman]

I treat new brass just like fired brass.

I do the same, full length size, chamfer & deburr, measure and trim if needed

 

[Rflshootr]

I'm probably going to hear a lot of grief, that's ok but with ADG and Lapua brass, I pull it out the box and start loading. If necks are severely bent I'll address it, but otherwise I do nothing. I just did a load test yesterday with my 6.5 PRC, 3 shots at 100 as I was testing 2 powders. This was my best group with first load test, Lapua brass right out of the box.

You won't hear any from me..........but did you ever wonder that if you did it the other way, that group may have been .0xx? Kidding...nice group...but where are the other 2 shots?

 

[Sdvldog1371]

Would you run the Lee collet neck die as I don't have a mandrel die

I wouldn't, only because my Giraud's cutter is set up for my sinclair mandrel (bad joke). I get what your asking though. As long as the mandrel in the collet die is large enough to straighten the necks out, absolutely. I personally wouldn't run them all the way in. I just like having a uniform roundness before sending it into the cutter. It helps both with consistency and keep from damaging the brass in my case. Whatever method you chose to use, look for a round neck and a way to be repeatable and consistent.