What do you use to level the reticle?

that is a really simple tool that would cut mounting time considerably. What I've been doing lately was to level my rifle by using my bipod and a level across the rail. I install the scope and adjust the verticle crosshair using a plumb bob out far enough where my scope can focus clearly on the string.
I find it to be a good method. But after seeing this and watching the video on using it, I just may go and buy this set.
 
Actually, that is not true or what causes a shift... it's the reticle not being plumb when breaking the shot. What is important is having a reference level true to the reticle. We have one piece revivers with integral machined rails as bases and do level them first as a starting point before plumbing the optic reticle in the rings. However, that is not what is critical to consistent POI at longer ranges. The important step is once the reticle is plumb, having a reference level mounted to the rifle system somewhere visible that is also plumb. It is not accurate to rely on your senses or what feels comfortable in the field. The barrel bore is round, but not straight, and tho it is nice to imagine your reticle is timed with the 12-6 position in relation to the axis of the bore it is not critical nor practical to reference anyway. We may be very close with the CNC machined flats on our integral receivers, but even then the stacking of tolerances from the receiver to the chamber and the bore, which again is never a perfectly straight tube, makes it a moot point. All that really needs to be done is to align and secure the rifle as close to plumb as possible with bases/rings installed, install your optic and find optimal eye relief, have a plumb line hanging far enough away the parallax can be adjusted crisply, rotate the scope to align with the plumb and torque rings. Finally, while the complete system is fixated with the reticle plumb...align your chosen reference level to be plumb and go shoot stuff at long ranges.
I'm confused here. Are you saying the scope reticle and action relation has nothing to do with cant?
 
OP,
You are getting a lot of good advice and some that is not. You don't need expensive tools to level a scope in your kitchen and out a window with a plumb line. You don't need expensive tools to then verify at the range with a level vertical line drawn at 100 yards, shoot at the bottom, bring up 20 moa and shoot again at the same point. 20moa impacts will show cant between action and scope.
 
Dr Richard Gray said something very well put and I feel its my problem.
I use an old Tipton rifle vise one of the originals and for the life of me I can't get the rifle to stay level to put the Wheeler Professional level on the barrel so I get it close.
I bet the newer vises are way better at keeping the rifle level.
This vise has served me well for many years but I may need to break down and buy one of the new Tipton vises.
Super information guys!I have been around a long time but you folks are teaching ALL of us how to do things right!
Keep em coming
Old Rooster
 
Dr Richard Gray said something very well put and I feel its my problem.
I use an old Tipton rifle vise one of the originals and for the life of me I can't get the rifle to stay level to put the Wheeler Professional level on the barrel so I get it close.
I bet the newer vises are way better at keeping the rifle level.
This vise has served me well for many years but I may need to break down and buy one of the new Tipton vises.
Super information guys!I have been around a long time but you folks are teaching ALL of us how to do things right!
Keep em coming
Old Rooster
I'm a cheap..... person so I throw a bipod on the rifle with a rear bag, level the action on rail or flats of scope ring bases (Talley one piece) and line it up with my plumb line out back. Gets you close enough for test at range.
What all do you use a gun vise for?
 
If I pointed a rifle at the corner of a neighbor's house I'd shortly be explaining to the gendarme just wth I was doing. Might even get to go for a short ride in their back seat while sitting on my hands.

I'm failing to see how the whole plumb bob method aligns the rifle under the scope. I think that I'll make the tool that I mentioned in my first post. That squares the recticle to action. At least it does when working with a bolt action. I'm thinking that the Arisaka tool others have mentioned might be the best for MSR's. If the reticle isn't square after using that on an MSR I'd suggest that the scope itself is the problem.
 
If I pointed a rifle at the corner of a neighbor's house I'd shortly be explaining to the gendarme just wth I was doing. Might even get to go for a short ride in their back seat while sitting on my hands.

I'm failing to see how the whole plumb bob method aligns the rifle under the scope. I think that I'll make the tool that I mentioned in my first post. That squares the recticle to action. At least it does when working with a bolt action. I'm thinking that the Arisaka tool others have mentioned might be the best for MSR's. If the reticle isn't square after using that on an MSR I'd suggest that the scope itself is the problem.
Small level on action? Pop sickle stick with bubble level glued to it :)
 
The tool that I used to use was about as simple is it gets and didn't care what the angle of the rifle was in the vise. It squared itself on the bolt raceways and provided a perpendicular reference to align the recticle with. One measurement, so 1/2 the total possible error tolerance.
 
Line it up to a plum line using a flashlight shining thru the scope
 

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I have bought many different tools and still had a slanted reticle on a couple of scopes.
I have the Level Level tool from Wheeler,the Professional level system also from Wheeler I believe and have used the plum bob system and still have a couple slightly slanted reticles.
I just bought a new tool that fixed all my slightly off reticles and was only 19.95.
So far I have fixed all my slightly off reticles and a couple of friends with the same problem.
Has anyone used this before?
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07MC71PC4/?tag=lrhmag19-20
I hope all scopes I mount will be as easy as my new mounted Athlon Ares BTR 2.5-15x50.
Let me know if there are better tools out there.
Old Rooster
Out there past 100 yards it is critical to have reticle plumb & level for you to adjust for the range changes. I put the rifle in some type of vise and use a level to be sure the rifle its self is level; leave one ring lose one sort of not snug so the scope will turn; put a small level on the scopes elevation adjustment cap; a magnetic level is great; turn the scope and tighten the snug ring. Re check; look thur scope; every thing ok; then tighten other ring; check again; torque to specs; the key is to have rifle locked down level to start. There are scopes that have no place square to put a level on and you just have to eye ball the vertical reticle on the corner of the barn about 100 yards away but even then the rifle has to be locked firmly level in some type of devise, eh? There are even some rifles that have no flat square surface with the bore. Don't buy one of those for long range shooting, eh?
 
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I have bought many different tools and still had a slanted reticle on a couple of scopes.
I have the Level Level tool from Wheeler,the Professional level system also from Wheeler I believe and have used the plum bob system and still have a couple slightly slanted reticles.
I just bought a new tool that fixed all my slightly off reticles and was only 19.95.
So far I have fixed all my slightly off reticles and a couple of friends with the same problem.
Has anyone used this before?
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07MC71PC4/?tag=lrhmag19-20
I hope all scopes I mount will be as easy as my new mounted Athlon Ares BTR 2.5-15x50.
Let me know if there are better tools out there.
Old Rooster
Rooster, I have used the Wheeler system for some time to mount new scopes, and it works extremely well. Upgraded to the newer Wheeler Professional kit in 2016. Great daylight laser!
Over time (=30+ years), I have had the reticles on two my older scopes go "slightly off." Both were variables and turned hard. The Leupold I returned and it came back right on. The Bushnell I fixed myself by removing the eyepiece, rotating the reticle, dry lubing the zoom rotating part, and reinstalling the eyepiece with Blue Loktite. I have never had the reticle of any of my fixed power scopes shift slightly off.
 
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Hi, you said, "here's one", but I don't see what you were referring to. Were you talking about a specific method, or a tool that lets you do this? I apologize if I'm being dense or have missed something.
Here's one, you level the reticle to the bore, set your level to both, fire a couple rounds at a 100 yards to confirm. The dial 500 and every round hits to the side 2 moa. Return to zero and use 500 yard mark on reticle and you're back to center! Took me 100 rounds out of a barrel and a set of screws to figure out all scopes don't track square to the reticle.
 
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