What do you do for NECK tention ???

bigbuck

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If I understand correctly consistent neck tention is a must for LR . So what do you do ? Is their any tricks of the trade ?

Thanks for reading.

BigBuck
 
Thing #1-- anneal your brass regularly.

Thing #2 - be consistent - the Lee neck dies are good but the correct bushing die is better. If you use a Lee neck die you can actually feel which cases have a thicker neck than others.

Thing #3 - get a VLD chamfer tool so the angle is easier for boattail bullet seating.

Thing #4 - clean the inside of your necks with a bore brush and 0000 steel wool chucked into a drill. Somewhere I put up one of my goofy videos on how to do this easy and quick.

Thing 5 - do not leave lube or any goo inside the neck that can turn sticky.

Thing 6 - you can use a neck turner to take of the high spots on your necks so they are of uniform thickness.
 
I anneal them like the video on this site, with the socket and a drill, till they just turn purple then into a bucket of water.
Chamfer and clean the inside if the necks with a wire brush.
Then load.
Tarey
 
If I understand correctly consistent neck tention is a must for LR . So what do you do ? Is their any tricks of the trade ?

Thanks for reading.

BigBuck

Muscle relaxers and a hot shower :D I couldn't resist a smart comment! BB's advice is perty much what I do and it has worked out nice, I did order my next reamer with a tighter neck than the factory is so I don't have to work the neck any more than necessary.
For me the Redding bushing die and the VLD chamfer tool made a big difference!
 
Muscle relaxers and a hot shower :D

I was gonna say that's what my wife is for......but resisted till now.:)

What's a VLD chamfer tool?

Is it different than the Wilson toow that is double-ended with standard 45-degree flutes that debur/chamfer the inside and outside mouth of the case that I purchased in 1966?

I like to keep up on the latest technology.:D
 
I was gonna say that's what my wife is for......but resisted till now.:)

What's a VLD chamfer tool?

Is it different than the Wilson toow that is double-ended with standard 45-degree flutes that debur/chamfer the inside and outside mouth of the case that I purchased in 1966?

I like to keep up on the latest technology.:D

WesB's link is a good pic of one but I use the Redding, I think everyone makes on now. Made a big difference in how the Bergers seated for me, they slide in like butter!
 
Thanks wesB.

Its' about what I thought. VLD is a marketing thing.

The Wilson is 45* the "VLD" is 28*?

Why not make one at 37.5 degrees and call it an RBBT chamfer tool.:D

You'll sell a million of 'em.
 
I just started annealing about 1 month ago. I use the rcbs VLD tool is it any different than say the redding ? Is their any trick to lubing the boolits before you seat them that would help them all have the same release.

BB
 
I just started annealing about 1 month ago. I use the rcbs VLD tool is it any different than say the redding ? Is their any trick to lubing the boolits before you seat them that would help them all have the same release.

BB

Interesting you mention lubing your bullets, I heard somewhere that you can wipe some dry graphite in the neck before seating. So I gave it a try this weekend, I remembered it after loading 5 rounds so, naturally instead of just trying 5 I loaded up 40 :rolleyes: about half shot sub MOA at every range the other half shot 3-5 MOA high, so I shot the 5 that I didn't lube and they went just under 1 MOA virticle and 20in windage at 1015yrds. I'm my worst enemy :rolleyes:
 
Interesting you mention lubing your bullets, I heard somewhere that you can wipe some dry graphite in the neck before seating. So I gave it a try this weekend, I remembered it after loading 5 rounds so, naturally instead of just trying 5 I loaded up 40 :rolleyes: about half shot sub MOA at every range the other half shot 3-5 MOA high, so I shot the 5 that I didn't lube and they went just under 1 MOA virticle and 20in windage at 1015yrds. I'm my worst enemy :rolleyes:

So do you think the dry graphite is worth it ? I was told by a hornady tech that shoots 1000 yrd comp that I could get this from any local parts stores for about $2.75 a tube . He said it worked well for him . How did you apply it ?


Bigbuck
 
So do you think the dry graphite is worth it ? I was told by a hornady tech that shoots 1000 yrd comp that I could get this from any local parts stores for about $2.75 a tube . He said it worked well for him . How did you apply it ?


Bigbuck

I'd try anything if someone has had success doing it, I just wiped a dusting in the neck with a Q-tip but my cases did not like it at all. I had a good group going at 600yrd, first and second shot were 1 5/8 then it heaved one 10 in up. I've shot dozens of 5-6 shot groups at 1015yrds and had 5-6in of vertical with this load, then I get the bright idea to tinker with it just a little more:rolleyes:.
Infuriating, the Almighty is using reloading to work on my patience level, it'll probably take a few barrel !!
 
I'd try anything if someone has had success doing it, I just wiped a dusting in the neck with a Q-tip but my cases did not like it at all. I had a good group going at 600yrd, first and second shot were 1 5/8 then it heaved one 10 in up. I've shot dozens of 5-6 shot groups at 1015yrds and had 5-6in of vertical with this load, then I get the bright idea to tinker with it just a little more:rolleyes:.
Infuriating, the Almighty is using reloading to work on my patience level, it'll probably take a few barrel !!

Thats the same way I applied it to a few that i had loaded up but the thing is I forgot to write it down on the ones that I applied it to . Don't you just love it when things like that happens lightbulb
BigBuck
 
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