I'm thinking about having a Remington 700 in 7mm mag converted to a 257 Weatherby. What can I expect to pay for the barrel swap? Is it worth the extra money to send it to someone who is notorious for accuracy if all I'm planning on doing is swapping the barrel? Also what other things should I have done to the action if I do decide to invest in more than just the barrel swap?
What can I expect to pay?
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westcliffe01
Well-Known Member
Unless you are planning on $900+ for the job, you will want to call Jim at NSS and get his Savage style barrel for the Remington action that uses a locking nut. That would set you back about $330 + another $60 for the nut and recoil lug. If you like it, you can always later strip it down and send the receiver to a specialist to get it trued.
Right now, receiver trueing by some of the name brand shops has a very long lead time. Ordering and fitting shoulder headspaced barrels has a very long lead time too. I ran out of patience trying to get my own Rem 700 done that way and got rid of it. The benefit you get with a Remington is a lot more trigger and stock choices.
For removing the old barrel, I recommend having a local smith use a parting tool just back of the shoulder and cut about 0.060" deep, that will take all the preload out of the shoulder and it should be easy to get out the action. Factory barrels (brand new takeoffs) are usually not worth more than $50-$60 so unless it is a new stainless barrel, it will cost more money trying to save it than using the parting off tool trick that will get it off fast.
If you need help with assembling Savage style barrels with nuts, drop me a line, I have all the tools and should be within driving distance.
Right now, receiver trueing by some of the name brand shops has a very long lead time. Ordering and fitting shoulder headspaced barrels has a very long lead time too. I ran out of patience trying to get my own Rem 700 done that way and got rid of it. The benefit you get with a Remington is a lot more trigger and stock choices.
For removing the old barrel, I recommend having a local smith use a parting tool just back of the shoulder and cut about 0.060" deep, that will take all the preload out of the shoulder and it should be easy to get out the action. Factory barrels (brand new takeoffs) are usually not worth more than $50-$60 so unless it is a new stainless barrel, it will cost more money trying to save it than using the parting off tool trick that will get it off fast.
If you need help with assembling Savage style barrels with nuts, drop me a line, I have all the tools and should be within driving distance.
Gunpoor
Well-Known Member
You can probably buy a new Weatherby Vanguard in 257WM for about the same or less money than a barrel swap on the 700. I helped S-I-L develop a load for a Vanguard in 300Weatherby a month or so ago and it is a shooter. Unless you are wanting to get something special I just don't see what you would gain.
Dr. Vette
Well-Known Member
Depends on what all you have done.
On my 700:
Greybulll stock, $350; already had it
Brux #5 fluted Barrel, $425; already had it
action true/barrel chambered/cut/crowned/bead blasted, $260 and 1 week turnaround
I skim bedded it myself
went from 2" at 200 to 3/4" instantly
On my 700:
Greybulll stock, $350; already had it
Brux #5 fluted Barrel, $425; already had it
action true/barrel chambered/cut/crowned/bead blasted, $260 and 1 week turnaround
I skim bedded it myself
went from 2" at 200 to 3/4" instantly
Let me throw another wrench in the mix. If I went out and bought a new Remington 700 CDL in 257 weatherby it would run about $950. If I bought a remage CBI barrel with the lug and nut, I would be into it for about $400 roughly, plus the value of my current 7mm mag, which I figure would put me at roughly $950. Which way is the better choice with this option?
Hired Gun
Well-Known Member
No need to cut on the old barrel. Remington barrels pop right off.
The action truing job is the least amount of impact on accuracy for the money. I would still check the action for square. If it's really out of whack then truing may not be optional. You might find out the smiths known for extreme accuracy don't really charge any more than anyone else. I would take the money saved from truing and spend it on a Jewel trigger.
If you like the rifle there is no reason not to put a premium barrel on it. Especially in 257 Weatherby. Long barrels really wake up an already phenomenal cartridge.
Krieger, Bartlein are my favorites in that order. $350 for a barrel and $300 to put it on is good ball park figures.
The action truing job is the least amount of impact on accuracy for the money. I would still check the action for square. If it's really out of whack then truing may not be optional. You might find out the smiths known for extreme accuracy don't really charge any more than anyone else. I would take the money saved from truing and spend it on a Jewel trigger.
If you like the rifle there is no reason not to put a premium barrel on it. Especially in 257 Weatherby. Long barrels really wake up an already phenomenal cartridge.
Krieger, Bartlein are my favorites in that order. $350 for a barrel and $300 to put it on is good ball park figures.
westcliffe01
Well-Known Member
You have a much better chance of having a shooter if you go with a Shilen, Brux, Lilja or other match barrel. Factory barrels leave a lot to be desired.
Does anyone want to assert that the whole accurizing industry is a scam ? If you watch the youtube videos of some of the people who know what they are doing, and see how tapered and out of square the threads, bolt lugs and bolt face is, then I think we know what we are getting in a Rem factory action.
I have tired of crappy factory rifles, so all I do now is buy donors and build them with Shilen barrels. I seldom have more than $1000 into them, laminate stock and all. You would have to be very lucky indeed to come close with anyones factory rifle.
Does anyone want to assert that the whole accurizing industry is a scam ? If you watch the youtube videos of some of the people who know what they are doing, and see how tapered and out of square the threads, bolt lugs and bolt face is, then I think we know what we are getting in a Rem factory action.
I have tired of crappy factory rifles, so all I do now is buy donors and build them with Shilen barrels. I seldom have more than $1000 into them, laminate stock and all. You would have to be very lucky indeed to come close with anyones factory rifle.
Sully2
Well-Known Member
VERY TRUE.....A question I am pondering myself. Id love to have a .257 but hate like hell laying out $1100-1300 for a non factory rifle
Sully2
Well-Known Member
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Well I've decided to leave the 7mm mag as it is. I have a Savage 114 chambered in 300 win mag that I have never shot that I'm going to use for a build. I pulled the barrel tonight and have started looking around at aftermarket barrels. Are all the premium barrels about the same quality wise? What's the best length to go with for this cartridge? 28-30"
You will get plenty of opinions at varying levels to filter through. I have a 30" Lilja 1:8, 3-groove, .750" at the muzzle on my Savage 110 .270 AI (http://www.longrangehunting.com/forums/f22/my-budget-270-ai-97745/) and am very pleased with it.
IIWY, my minimum length for a custom barrel would be 28" ... but would probably go with 30" (can't reverse the process if you want it longer
).NOTE: For your consideration, a 30" barrel + muzzle brake requires extra long gun case.
Good luck!
Hired Gun
Well-Known Member
Not even a little bit. Beware of the budget priced ones. I also would strongly urge you to avoid prefit or prechambered barrels. The barrel makers are better at making barrels than taking the time it takes to fit one to the level of precision available today.
