Butch’s bore shine?

171farm

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Finally about ready to shoot my 7prc I had built. The smith that did the work has a "barrel break in" recommendation that includes thorough cleaning with Butch's bore shine. What's everyone's opinion on Butch's? Any other recommendations of other similar products? Seems like more recent reviews of Butch's are mixed especially vs overwhelming glowing reviews in past.
 
Good stuff not sure if it's the Best but has worked great for me. As far as barrel break in what is his recommended procedure
 
It's pretty involving and can be adjusted more or less patches/cleanings based off what the patches look like. Here is a paraphrase

Start with 2-3 wet patches of Butch's and then 2-3 dry patches. Shoot a round and then do 3-5 wet patches of Butch's followed by 3-5 dry patches then throughly brush Sweets 7.62 to get the bore saturated…let it sit 15 minutes. Run 2 patches soaked with peroxide followed by dry. Shoot a round and start it all over.

Seems like a lot but I'll give it a try for the first several rounds.
 
I have found Boretech and/or Montana cleaning solvent to be the best. I shoot ~8K rds a year and do NOT enjoy cleaning. So I wanted something quick and easy and didn't destroy brains cells when I smelled it.


I will say that if you follow the instructions with the wipe out /accel products, they seem to work pretty good too, especially if your Barrel cleans easy
 
Barrel break-in for a factory rifle is a waste of time. Break-in for my customs I've stuck with what GAP & Krieger recommend: Clean the throat/leade after 5 rounds to knock down whatever copper built up, and then I just keep shooting till the amount of rounds I decide necessary. That is just what made the most sense to me. The copper seen through the barrel is a result of the copper being molten and sprayed from the contact with the lands. So that is the spot to "burnish".

AR barrels get cleaned at the gas port at 10, 20, 30 round schedule to reduce the/any metal migration cause by the port. Some barrels migrate pretty bad, others barely at all. If one gets a custom 416R stainless and it's not bug holing, I would bet the farm that the metal migration at the port is the culprit. Nitrided and CMV barrels migrate less than 416R.

I've also been using Thoroclean on all my barrels for the past year. I've thrown out all other barrel cleaning products. Using a slightly oversized bronze brush and Thoroclean system, the carbon rings are gone and barrels are spotless in 5 minutes. I ran out of the Thoroflush and substituted "Purple Power" degreaser as I found a degreaser is what comprises most of the flush.
 
Barrel break-in for a factory rifle is a waste of time. Break-in for my customs I've stuck with what GAP & Krieger recommend: Clean the throat/leade after 5 rounds to knock down whatever copper built up, and then I just keep shooting till the amount of rounds I decide necessary. That is just what made the most sense to me. The copper seen through the barrel is a result of the copper being molten and sprayed from the contact with the lands. So that is the spot to "burnish".

AR barrels get cleaned at the gas port at 10, 20, 30 round schedule to reduce the/any metal migration cause by the port. Some barrels migrate pretty bad, others barely at all. If one gets a custom 416R stainless and it's not bug holing, I would bet the farm that the metal migration at the port is the culprit. Nitrided and CMV barrels migrate less than 416R.

I've also been using Thoroclean on all my barrels for the past year. I've thrown out all other barrel cleaning products. Using a slightly oversized bronze brush and Thoroclean system, the carbon rings are gone and barrels are spotless in 5 minutes. I ran out of the Thoroflush and substituted "Purple Power" degreaser as I found a degreaser is what comprises most of the flush.
What is CMV?
 
I find it's a good all around solvent that will remove copper and powder fouling if you clean regularly. If copper gets bad you may need something stronger. I also find it works well if you run a wet patch then brush a few strokes and go back to patches. On a good custom barrel it doesn't take much.
 

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