What Can I do to my 700 in .270?

I like the way you think!

I only wish I was a bigger guy! haha, I guess I will just have to tough it out and do more conditioning for my hunt. But only being 5'8" and 160 lbs makes things a little tougher i suppose. Good thing for power lifting the last couple years. If I can break the school deadlift record at 510 lbs, I ought to be able to carry a 14 lb gun!
 
I like the way you think!

I only wish I was a bigger guy! haha, I guess I will just have to tough it out and do more conditioning for my hunt. But only being 5'8" and 160 lbs makes things a little tougher i suppose. Good thing for power lifting the last couple years. If I can break the school deadlift record at 510 lbs, I ought to be able to carry a 14 lb gun!
Well I'm 5'8" too. But the day I finished Ranger Training at the age of 18 I weighed 197. I stay between 205-210 these days unless I have a slow winter. Then I pork up like a fall bear HA!

Light is nice to carry. Heavy makes for a more stable weapon to shoot and lowers felt recoil considerably.

Use the recoil calculator I linked to and compare the difference between a 6.5lbs sporter and a 14lbs weapon. You'll see what I mean real quick.
 
pbailey,

This thread is going well. You are getting great advice and seem to be settling on your choice of stock. Follow your judgement as I've learned that buyer's remorse tends to increase group size.:)

As has been pointed out, heavier is better, up to a point. That point can only be determined by you. I carry my 10# big bore kicker. I also carry my 12# 30" barreled LRH rifle easily with an across the front carry system. I haul my heavier than heavy 16# super hooty far reacher and only on short hauls. I'm 5-10, 200# and 68:rolleyes:

Regarding what to do next: Reloading will make a big difference. Hornady and Nosler make great 140 grain offerings. Hornady's lead tipped spire point boat tail is usually a great shooter, if your mag doesn't flatten their tips. Nosler's 130 and 140 grain offerings are usually accurate shooters.

Your 270 would be good with a 24" bbl and a bit better with a 26" one. Even with a 24" barrel you should be able to get great velocities. Good for around 900 yards for my way of thinkin.

Keep on truckin' Keep us posted. You're asking great questions.
 
Do you think it would really be useable for deer past 500 yads?

Sure would love that!

With out a doubt!!! The 270 Win that is at my house, been there for 45 years, on second barrel is dead nuts on milk jugs @ 630 yards any day of the week. And with plenty of energy to do in a muley of any size.

Hornady 140 BTSPs and 140 NABs are tough to beat even with their lowly bc of less than 0.500. We haven't tried Bergers in it yet.

Go with Winchester brass of any head stamp, it is lighter and tougher than Remmy brass by a good bit. More powder capacity = more velocity. RL-22 is the powder of choice as the rifle is used during hunting season when temperature swings are minimal.

Your limiting factor will be the reticle on the scope. With a BDC type reticle, such as the Zeiss or others will remove the delay time for the shot by removing clicking time.

Run the number on a 0.496 G1 BC and again on a 0.600 bc with 140 grain velocity of a reasonably achievable 3100+ MV. It'll light your fire!
 
Do you think it would really be useable for deer past 500 yads?

Sure would love that!
Out to six hundred the .270 is enough gun even for Elk if you put it in the right place with the right load.

Not my choice of caliber, but next to the 30-06 and 7Rmag it's probably taken more deer in the US than any other caliber over the last 30 years or so.
 
Awesome! Thank you very much. I have 100 140 grain Hornady BTSP that are just waiting to get loaded up. I have 90 hornady casings, will those be ok to start with? Or should I just buy a new batch of winchester brass?

Also, I have really been looking at the H4831 and the 4831SC, could anyone tell me the difference between these two? From all that I have read, they should work good for the 140 grain 270 bullets. But I am not opposed to used the Reloader powder if that will provide better results!
 
Awesome! Thank you very much. I have 100 140 grain Hornady BTSP that are just waiting to get loaded up. I have 90 hornady casings, will those be ok to start with? Or should I just buy a new batch of winchester brass?

Also, I have really been looking at the H4831 and the 4831SC, could anyone tell me the difference between these two? From all that I have read, they should work good for the 140 grain 270 bullets. But I am not opposed to used the Reloader powder if that will provide better results!
If those ninety are once fired through your own rifle that's a great plact to start. They'll already be expanded to match your chamber exactly.

I'd just neck size them as opposed to full length resizing for at least every two uses.

I've always had great luck with Hornady as well as Norma and winchester brass.
 
With out a doubt!!! The 270 Win that is at my house, been there for 45 years, on second barrel is dead nuts on milk jugs @ 630 yards any day of the week. And with plenty of energy to do in a muley of any size.

Hornady 140 BTSPs and 140 NABs are tough to beat even with their lowly bc of less than 0.500. We haven't tried Bergers in it yet.

Go with Winchester brass of any head stamp, it is lighter and tougher than Remmy brass by a good bit. More powder capacity = more velocity. RL-22 is the powder of choice as the rifle is used during hunting season when temperature swings are minimal.

Your limiting factor will be the reticle on the scope. With a BDC type reticle, such as the Zeiss or others will remove the delay time for the shot by removing clicking time.

Run the number on a 0.496 G1 BC and again on a 0.600 bc with 140 grain velocity of a reasonably achievable 3100+ MV. It'll light your fire!

Roy have you tried one of these 165 vld hunting bullets?
.277 Caliber Rifle Bullets Built for Accuracy | Matrix Ballistics
 
Awesome! Thank you very much. I have 100 140 grain Hornady BTSP that are just waiting to get loaded up. I have 90 hornady casings, will those be ok to start with? Or should I just buy a new batch of winchester brass?

Also, I have really been looking at the H4831 and the 4831SC, could anyone tell me the difference between these two? From all that I have read, they should work good for the 140 grain 270 bullets. But I am not opposed to used the Reloader powder if that will provide better results!

4831 is the same as 4831ssc.

Note that I am a velocity hawg! I milk the last ounce of velocity out of every thing I shoot. Except the 270 Win where I stop at 3200 FPS MV. Why stop there? Simply it seems to me, to be uncool to shoot a classic beyond what it was designed for. For 30 years I shot the Sierra 90 gr hollow point at 3400 with, I think, 54 grains of 4895. The 130 grain Sierra BT went 3190 with N-205 until it became unavailable then a stiff load of IMR-4350. Norma powder did the job with noticeably less pressure. RL or RE-22 is the same powder as N=205/MRP but I understand much less quality control. (Possibly floor sweepings.....:rolleyes:)

4831 never cut the mustard except for great accuracy and mediocre velocity. I shot a max load of 4831 and it did everything I asked behind the 130 grain pill. I made some memorable long shots with it. Then I bought the Oehler #1 Chrono and learned the bullet was traveling under 2900 FPS as compared to the 3100 stated in the book. That flat didn't cut it.

There are fellas here shooting the Winny at almost unbelievable velocities. You may wish to do some searches. For me 3190 is plenty sufficient with 130s and 140s. Case life is measured in years when used only for taking game of any size.

Start with the cases you have. Compare their weight against Winchester's. If your milking velocity, go with the lighter case.
 
Thanks guys! Well...I was going to buy some H4831 for the 140 grain interlocks that i have, should I start somewhere else?
 
How much do you want to spend? It may be cheaper to order a rifle already made..once you start tricking out your rifle you can have $2000.00 into it fast, if you have the money.
Wright down all the changes and the cost of parts and Xs it by 2 and thats about how much you will cost from the Gunsmith. The scope alone will be at least $300+ the new barrel and instalation $500.00 and its no garantee you will be making little holes at long ranges.
 
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