What caliper do use?

Gary's advice is right on. I bought a Mitutoyo 6" digital caliper 12 years ago, and it is still working well. I have put 3 or 4 batteries in it over the years.

Some time ago, I could not find it. I ordered another exactly like it. Before it arrived, I found the lost Mitutoyo. So I have a brand new 6" Mitutoyo digital in the original box never used. Will sell it for $125 shipped CONUS.

Could you post a pic of the dig caliper u r willing to part with? I'd be interested. Which model? How long have you had it?
 
I have had a lot of good luck with SPI's at work. We have 1-24", 1-12", 2-8" and 2-6".

These calipers get abused quite a bit and keep on running even getting dropped and cutting fluid on them they still stay calibrated and run quite well.
 
I have the $20. model from Midway. It has served me well for the past two years as a newbie metallic reloader. But I have been thinking about upgrading.

Where are you folks buying the better ones, Mitutoyo and Starrett?

Seems to me a digital 6 inch model would be best, suggestions, model numbers are welcome.
 
If u r looking for a 'Made in USA' Starrett caliper, the 799 series is made in China while the more expensive 798 series is made in the USA and has the IP67 level of protection against dirt, oil, water, etc.: 798A-6/150 Electronic Caliper, Stainless Steel, .0005" Resolution, and 0-6" Measuring Range. I called the company and was transferred 3x to finally talk to someone who confirmed that the 799 series is made offshore.

I've noticed lately that some companies are making it harder and harder to tell the country of origin.

For instance, a recently aquired RCBS/OHAUS 1010 powder scale does not say, anywhere in the scale itself, that it is made in Mexico. It does say this on the bottom of the cardboard box the scale comes in. I didn't think to look at the bottom of the box, thinking this information would surely be on the unit itself. On the scale, it says MFG. by Ohaus company, etc. and then gives their US address. A little tricky. This product has been returned as in a conversation with Scott Parker, (he's the one who told me to look on the bottom of the box) well known for tuning scales, he says that he won't even try to tune a 1010 scale made in Mexico--just not worth his time. He suggests the currently made Redding #2 scale or an old Lyman M5, if you can find one, as his two most preferred scales at the moment.

Hope another measuring instrument conversation isn't too off topic for the OP...
 
Thanks for the input. So my 1010 is made in Mexico - I will work with it in detail this week to see if it is true. And if not, I will return it to the retailer. The Redding is available. And my old Lyman has always been true, kind of wondering why I spent a buck fifty.

As for Made in America, I am doing my best to purchase fully. But scales are the least of my concern, the fresh vegetable department in my grocery store sends more of my money abroad than any other culprit.

Best.
 
Dial calipers, I have had one set of digital and they got misplaced I don't even know when! shows you how much I used em. A good set dial calipers if taken care of and not abused will last decades, I also have a pair of lyman calipers and :rolleyes: they want to flex and read off by 0.001 - 0.002 at the thought of reading off, but when you figure out why they do that (besides being cheap) you can work around it. you'd be a lot better off just getting a good dial caliper and be done with it though.
 
I have no love for digital calipers. I also am not paying a $150 for a simple fragile tool. I will not go cheep like harbor freight cheep but the frankford or dillion $25-60 give good service.
 
"I will not go cheep like harbor freight cheep but the frankford or dillion $25-60 give good service. "

I haven't held a Dillon in my hands but I have Frankford/Midway and it's identical in everything but the plastic name plate to my Harbor Freights that cost less than half. Suspect that's true of the Dillons too. Ditto the Lyman, RCBS, Hornady labels and most of the machine tool house brands too.
 
Probably true. They all look the same to me but my first one was a harbor freight special and it went nuts on me one day out of the blue. gears gave out for no reason one day and shut me down for a day. The others I have had for a long time without trouble.
 
If we allow a dial caliper's exposed rack gear to get 'dirty' it will clog the pinon gear in the dial mechanism and forcing it will damage the gears for sure. I use compressed air to blow out the gear from time to time. Don't think that's unique to Chinese calipers tho. In fact the only ones I know of that are immune to clogging-jamming are the original precision calipers with vernier scales and the various digitals. I love my old Swiss made 6" vernier calipers, they're very accurate and tuff but my eyes can't handle the tiny calibration lines anymore.
 
If we allow a dial caliper's exposed rack gear to get 'dirty' it will clog the pinon gear in the dial mechanism and forcing it will damage the gears for sure. I use compressed air to blow out the gear from time to time. Don't think that's unique to Chinese calipers tho. In fact the only ones I know of that are immune to clogging-jamming are the original precision calipers with vernier scales and the various digitals. I love my old Swiss made 6" vernier calipers, they're very accurate and tuff but my eyes can't handle the tiny calibration lines anymore.

With a pair of Mitutoyo dial type calipers you can reset them in about one minute flat. Takes longer to get the little brass shim in your hands than to do the job. But the exposed gear & rack is a built in design problem with most all dial calipers. With the Starretts you have to take the head apart to reset them. I don't know about Browne & Sharps, but even Fowlers have to be split to do it right.
gary
 
What is IP67?

I was considering a Mitutoyo 500-196-20. But my 20 buck unit from Midway appears true.
 
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