Ways in which to improve walnut blank/stock properties to improve accuracy.

[65WSM]

Here is a home built laminate stock blank. Two walnut boards from the lumber yard with a piece of purple heart tropical rainforest wood in the center. I used two layers of graphite between each ply. Tap Plastic 100% solid Epoxy resin was used to hold it together. The blank was sent to a duplicator.

 

[65WSM]

Photos did not load in previous post. I will try one at a time.

 

[65WSM]

Finished .224 Nisqually shown shooting 80gr Matchkings. I am on my second nitrocarburized barrel with this stock.

 

[ZAR LRH]

JE Custom, got two bottles of True Oil yesterday. Have some walnut plans that I'm going to test the penetration on of a diluted vs none diluted.

Bullet Bumper, thanks for the word of advice on the bedding setup. Perhaps a little too much theory and not enough experience. Wil steer away from it. The aluminium is also an option. However, spoke to few guys this side and none of the guys know about a smith or someone that they know of that will be willing to do such work.

Thanks for the info and photos 65WSM. Currently busy trying to source hardwood veneer sheets. Plan is to alternate the grain at 90 degrees with carbon fibre in between. Just have to get the right epoxy to use with the carbon fibre and veneer.

 

[65WSM]

Tap plastics has two epoxy resins that are 100% solids, that means they do not shrink. Call them. That is what you want. Most resins shrink and keep shrinking for years. Not what you want.

 

[65WSM]

"laminated" stocks all have the grain in the plys going the same direction. No 90 degrees change in directions. Borrow a laminated stock from someone. 90 degree plys would never sand out. You only need 3 or 5 plys. A hobby wood working supply like Seattle "Woodcraft" could help you. If you want a lightweight stock, they have bamboo boards that they will ship to you.

 

[Bullet bumper]

JE Custom, got two bottles of

The aluminium is also an option. However, spoke to few guys this side and none of the guys know about a smith or someone that they know of that will be willing to do such work.

Same problems here that is why if you want something unusual you have to do it yourself . Gunsmiths don't want to guarantee anything they don't normally do . I can understand that .

 

[shortgrass]

I think the first thing thst should be considered is the stock blank, itself. Not all blanks are equal. Some species of stock wood are more tight grained than others. Tighter grain won't react to moisture like a wood with more open grain will. I gave up on True Oil years ago. I like to start sealing with Pemalyn sealer. After I've wet sanded enough to fill the pores I like Pro Custom Oil. Hands down superior to True Oil. I know of one stock maker that sealed using Acra-Glass liquid. Mixed it up, wiped it on with a plastic card, let it dry for 48+ hours, and sanded with 320, then buffed with 400. It made for a nice finish and certainly sealed the blank from moisture. Kinda' messy, though.

 

[LoneTraveler]

There is a process of make Future Wood. Bear Archery once use this type wood to make the riser for the Kodiak Bow. It was developed by WVU Engineering Dept. About 1968. It is made by putting dry Maple wood in a vacuum chamber. In the process the wood drew in .7 lb of Bakelite type resin for each 1 lb. of wood. Then it was exposed to some sort of Cobalt Ray to harden the resin. I made a set of slab knife handles out of Future wood once. Had to use metal tools to shape. It was so hard and stable I had to drill and tap holes and use brass bolts to attach the slabs.
If you could find a proper size piece. It would make a stable stock but would be a lot of work and heavy. Good Luck in this project.