Warning on laminated wood stocks

codyadams

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Many of you already know this, but as this is a fast growing sport, I feel that it is something good to bring up for those new to the sport or those that have never had a laminated stock. This will help with reliability and consistency.

Laminated stocks are a great replacement for many of today's tupperware stocks that come on lower priced rifles when you are striving for the best accuracy, and many factory rifles come with laminated stocks as well. While they can greatly improve accuracy and ergonomics over these tupperware stocks at a budget price, there is something you must understand.

Laminated stocks need to be properly pillar bedded, EVEN FACTORY STOCKS. I personally have seen six different laminated stocks that were cracked at either the web, tang, or recoil lug (in two cases all three) because they were not bedded. All but one were brought to me by friends or family because they were not shooting well when they used to, the other one was my personal rifle from when I was 12, I actually missed a shot at an elk on a very cold morning and had a large chunk of the tang crack out, and the action was actually movable in the stock. this stock was not repairable, as the recoil lug cracked on both sides and allowed the action to move rearward, chipping the tang. Three of these rifles were Ruger rifles in their factory stock, two of them had never had the action removed from the stock. They were in the following calibers - 30-06, my personal rifle with around 75 rounds fired, a 7mm-08, and 6.5 Creedmoor with around 150 rounds fired. Notice that these are not necessarily heavy recoiling rounds.....Another was a Savage 11 chambered in .308 with a Boyds replacement stock, the Boyds had roughly 50 rounds through it, another was a Remington 700 with the factory laminated stock chambered in .308, and the last one was a Remington 700 chambered in 7mm rem mag with a Stocky's laminated stock.

This issue can be resolved with a solid pillar bedding job. This NEEDS to be done prior to firing the rifle at all, even if it is a factory rifle that came with the stock. If you are looking at buying a used rifle with a laminate stock, there is a good chance that it is already cracked, which led to poor accuracy, which led to the rifle being sold. If the gun shop will do it, ask to have the action removed from the stock and carefully inspect, it is likely that there will be cracks in the previously stated locations. This does not necessarily mean the stock is trash....I have repaired cracks in stocks like this by gently spreading the crack open and mushing in devcon prior to doing the rest of the pillar bedding. I have laminated stocks that have over 1000 rounds through them without issue, and ones that I repaired with hundreds of rounds and no issue so far, though I would still periodically check them to make sure that the already compromised stock does not have more issues.

Just something minor that can create a major issue. I would also add that even a solid walnut stock, I will not shoot them without a proper pillar bedding.

Good Shooting everyone!!!
 
Good to know I've never thought to look for that. I have noticed a lot of the new stocks plastic and laminate are coming with pillars. This may be the reason
 
Good to know I've never thought to look for that. I have noticed a lot of the new stocks plastic and laminate are coming with pillars. This may be the reason
It's good that they do, many of the savages come with steel pillars I know, I have only seen the issue with stocks without pillars, though it may be possible to happen with stocks that aren't bedded but have pillars, I don't know. Part of it I'm sure is the round action in many cases being forced down by torquing of action screw, this combined with the shock of recoil causes cracking of the lamination. With the flat bottom type Rugers I wouldn't be surprised if some of them come cracked from the factory, the angled recoil lug screw and the fact that they say they torque their front action screw to 90 in lbs likely contributes. And if they aren't from the factory, a few shots torqued that tight very well may do it. I wouldn't even torque an aluminum chassis that tight, let alone a bare wood stock!! with the Rugers I have pillar bedded, I always torque to 50-65 in lbs and make sure the barrel is floated and they always shoot fantastic.
 
Do you bed the chamber area of the barrel? I've always seen that and figured it was standard but with chassis they shoot fine without it.
I intentionally do not. A couple reasons, for one the barrel gets significantly hotter than the action, and can cause undue stresses that differ from the action significantly when heated and expanded. For two, if you ever change your barrel you need to remove it anyway. For three, I have noticed no discernable difference in accuracy with a bedding job approximately 1" down the barrel before and after I removed the barrel shank bedding. For four, the majority of high end custom long range rifle builders (that I have seen) do not do it. Just my experience.
 
Installing pillars is to negate compression of wood/laminated stocks, and to induce stress free, repeatable surface to torque to, when they are properly installed. The action screws should never come in contact with the inside of the pillars. Proper support of the recoil lug, with glass (Marine-Tex is my preferred) , a solid bed for the front receiver ring and rear tang (or where ever the rear action screw goes) in a stress free manner will stand-up to the harshest recoiling caliber rifles. Action screws should never touch the inside of the holes they pass through to secure the action to the stock. As a side note, most of the factory and low cost laminates are made of some pretty trashy wood.
 
With a properly bedded action, pillars are not bedding, but installed to allow adequate tightness of the action -to it's bedding. That is, with bedded pillars in place, you may go a bit higher in tightness, without distorting the stock and it's bedding.
With an action that is in contact with/mounted to pillars, then that alone does nothing to contain recoil. An action recoil surface will still need to be contained by a stock recoil surface.
 
I have a Boyds laminated thumbhole stock that gave me fits for years. In a 98 Mauser action in 270 Win., it ultimately needed a pillar job. Stock crush and a lot of interference issues with the stock Argentine bottom metal. It was frustrating. It shoots fine now.
 
"Stress Free" is the key here. Pillars will allow repeatable torque for the action screws. Pillars need to be installed where there is no "stress" or bending of the action when the screws are torqued. And yes, you can bend the action if the bedding isn't 'there' to support the action as the guard screws are tightened. The 'bending' of the action can produce poor accuracy and trigger troubles. Worth repeating, the recoil lug requires proper support to prevent stock breakage. You can break a synthetic stock also, if the recoil lug is not properly supported allowing the barreled action to move rearward when the rifle is fired.
 
"Stress Free" is the key here. Pillars will allow repeatable torque for the action screws. Pillars need to be installed where there is no "stress" or bending of the action when the screws are torqued. And yes, you can bend the action if the bedding isn't 'there' to support the action as the guard screws are tightened. The 'bending' of the action can produce poor accuracy and trigger troubles. Worth repeating, the recoil lug requires proper support to prevent stock breakage. You can break a synthetic stock also, if the recoil lug is not properly supported allowing the barreled action to move rearward when the rifle is fired.
Absolutely. I prefer to use the action screws with just enough tape wrapped around them to fit snug inside the pillars, and screw the pillars that I measured and cut to proper length to the action prior to dropping it into the stock while bedding. This ensures that there will be good contact between the pillars and action, and also that the screws will never contact the inside of the pillars. The barrel near the end of the stock forend will have enough tape around it to float/center it in the barrel channel, and it is dropped into the stock and left for a couple days before I pop it out. I have had good results this way.
 
Glass bedding and installing pillars is a 2 step job in my shop. Install the pillars first. Make sure everything is "right". Then glass as a 2nd separate step. I may shim the barrel to get it in the center of the barrel channel if possible, but I never wrap tape around it to "free float". After the bedding has cured, I'll go back and open the barrel channel in the stock, so it floats free of any interference buy the stock. Then, seal the barrel channel.
 
Glass bedding and installing pillars is a 2 step job in my shop. Install the pillars first. Make sure everything is "right". Then glass as a 2nd separate step. I may shim the barrel to get it in the center of the barrel channel if possible, but I never wrap tape around it to "free float". After the bedding has cured, I'll go back and open the barrel channel in the stock, so it floats free of any interference buy the stock. Then, seal the barrel channel.
I'm not sure I understand the difference between shims to center the barrel and tape around the barrel acting as a shim to center the barrel
 
Not to argue with you Shortgrass, that is not the intention. More just to understand what negatives would come with a couple layers of tape around a barrel (not barrel and stock, just barrel) to center vs. a shim. My goal is to get the best bedding possible, I'm always looking for ways to improve my process.
 
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