Wanting to build a custom rifle

[BrentM]

Big Horn actions are good to go. I have the TL3 and would do the origin in a heart beat. These actions are in spec and consistent and the prefit suppliers have the spec and will not have an issue making shouldered prefits. Some people will ask for short chambers and use a finish reamer to dial in the head space by hand.

 

[Matchbook454]

Big Horn actions are good to go. I have the TL3 and would do the origin in a heart beat. These actions are in spec and consistent and the prefit suppliers have the spec and will not have an issue making shouldered prefits. Some people will ask for short chambers and use a finish reamer to dial in the head space by hand.

So this is something that I do not yet understand. Why would someone need to dial in or change the headspace?

 

[BrentM]

So this is something that I do not yet understand. Why would someone need to dial in or change the headspace?

Because they want a shouldered barrel vs a nut. The short chamber will work pretty much work when the action is not in spec, which many are not, ie Remington.

 

[RAGGED EDGE]

Just passing on info gleaned from talking with people who build a lot of expensive shooting systems. Of your listed potential caliber choices, it may be wise to scrap the 28 Nosler and 6.5x284 in favor of the 6.5 PRC. Their experience has been that the 6.5 PRC is the most tractable of the new wonder cartridges to get to shoot well, with factory ammo being very, very good. In their experience the 28 Nosler can be a real bugger, with far more time being spent to get them to perform satisfactorily. Again, just what I'm hearing on the range.

 

[PAGSDIII701]

Just passing on info gleaned from talking with people who build a lot of expensive shooting systems. Of your listed potential caliber choices, it may be wise to scrap the 28 Nosler and 6.5x284 in favor of the 6.5 PRC. Their experience has been that the 6.5 PRC is the most tractable of the new wonder cartridges to get to shoot well, with factory ammo being very, very good. In their experience the 28 Nosler can be a real bugger, with far more time being spent to get them to perform satisfactorily. Again, just what I'm hearing on the range.

I can echo BAD EXPERIENCE with the 28 Nosler (per 3+ friends)

 

[Matchbook454]

Just passing on info gleaned from talking with people who build a lot of expensive shooting systems. Of your listed potential caliber choices, it may be wise to scrap the 28 Nosler and 6.5x284 in favor of the 6.5 PRC. Their experience has been that the 6.5 PRC is the most tractable of the new wonder cartridges to get to shoot well, with factory ammo being very, very good. In their experience the 28 Nosler can be a real bugger, with far more time being spent to get them to perform satisfactorily. Again, just what I'm hearing on the range.

Thank you for sharing that! I have been doing a little more research and was starting to reconsider that caliber. Any input on .300 PRC?

 

[nksmfamjp]

So this is something that I do not yet understand. Why would someone need to dial in or change the headspace?

I think 2 things are not clear in the diy world. First, when a gunsmith builds the rifle, they do the machining and set the headspace wherever you want, or they want. Cutting by spec works, but the headspace will end up somewhere between GO and NO-GO, but not bias toward min as when custom cut.

Also, rifles tend not to go together magically. There are issues. Let's take barrel channel gap. Shifting the barrel a few thousandths to the rear will open up the gap and a few thousandths the other way close it. A good smith will ensure free float, fit barreled action in the stock and deal with any sticky points along the way. They have all the tools.....so usually their building/fitting knowledge goes into the price and the tool cost mostly comes out. You end up a few dollars more, but with a custom rifle.

Another thing I'm not hearing in this thread is will your rifle fit you? Take all your guns out of the safe....which length of pull feels best, which forearm feels best, which grip feels best. Check these things in your shooting position....tape stuff on like thin foam to see if the cheek rest, butt pad, grip areas need modifications. Then shop around for the right dimensions, or pay to modify. Where should the sling attach? Will you shoot off bipod, tripod, do you need an ARCA rail, barrier stop, bdl or magazine? Do you need/want open sights as a backup? What will your scope weigh? Those 3lb scopes feel weird on light barrels. Does the stock need balanced? What is your target weight?

To me, these last 2 paragraphs make a custom rifle not the same as an expensive production rifle and I need a gunsmith to get them right.

 

[25WSM]

Easy way for you is to get a barreled action ready to drop in. Kelblys do them and they are very good at what they do. So as long as you can fit and bed your stock you have a custom.
6.5-284 is a very accurate and capable cartridge.
Good luck.
Shep

 

[BrentM]

I think 2 things are not clear in the diy world. First, when a gunsmith builds the rifle, they do the machining and set the headspace wherever you want, or they want. Cutting by spec works, but the headspace will end up somewhere between GO and NO-GO, but not bias toward min as when custom cut.

Also, rifles tend not to go together magically. There are issues. Let's take barrel channel gap. Shifting the barrel a few thousandths to the rear will open up the gap and a few thousandths the other way close it. A good smith will ensure free float, fit barreled action in the stock and deal with any sticky points along the way. They have all the tools.....so usually their building/fitting knowledge goes into the price and the tool cost mostly comes out. You end up a few dollars more, but with a custom rifle.

Another thing I'm not hearing in this thread is will your rifle fit you? Take all your guns out of the safe....which length of pull feels best, which forearm feels best, which grip feels best. Check these things in your shooting position....tape stuff on like thin foam to see if the cheek rest, butt pad, grip areas need modifications. Then shop around for the right dimensions, or pay to modify. Where should the sling attach? Will you shoot off bipod, tripod, do you need an ARCA rail, barrier stop, bdl or magazine? Do you need/want open sights as a backup? What will your scope weigh? Those 3lb scopes feel weird on light barrels. Does the stock need balanced? What is your target weight?

To me, these last 2 paragraphs make a custom rifle not the same as an expensive production rifle and I need a gunsmith to get them right.

Not everyone needs a smith do those things. You can easily buy a chassis and adjust or modify a stock lop and install risers. This stuff is not that difficult. Many who are into switch barrel rifles are quite competent in fitting and setting up a rifle they want, how they want, and make changes as they see fit. Conversely many people are not comfortable with even setting up a scope so swapping barrels is a huge nope for them. It really boils down to desire to diy or not. I've built many rifles on my own and appreciate a smiths time and knowledge, so each person has to decide what value is added for them.

 

[25WSM]

Matchbook you said you are a machinist. Making an action wrench and a barrel vise are pretty basic. And if you go the barrel nut system they are simple. Not that shouldered barrels aren't simple because they are. You being a machinist can measure your action and give those specs to get your headspace proper. It's just a few measurements they will use to make your chamber the proper depth. Shouldered barrels are even easier than a nut barrel. Lube it up screw it down and snug it up. Done. Once the company has your action measurement they can make you more barrels that will fit. You probably have scrape laying around your shop to make the tools.
Shep

 

[25WSM]

One more thing. You only need the big vise and big wrench to get factory barrels off. You don't need them. Just the tools benchrest shooters use to change barrels at the range is all you need.
Shep

 

[25WSM]

There are blueprint sheets out there that show the measurements you need to make. If you can't find one I'll send you one. One a custom you only need 3 measurements for a good fit.

 

[BrentM]

Shep made a valid point and if you buy the nut from big horn you probably have a 12 point wrench in your tool box that fit, if you go the nut route. I have action wrenches, barrel nut wrenches, action vise, barrel vise...… when I bought the bighorn I bought their inside the action tool and use my barrel vise to hold everything steady. All that is really needed is soft jaws or something on your bench vice to hold the barrel in place while you set the rifle up via their action wrench though. You need about 40-80 ft lbs to tq the barrel down. I use the lesser and have never had an issue. So, blah blah blah, a barrel vise and the big horn tool, shouldered prefit, barrel swap in a 15 min. You can literally leave the scope on, rifle in the stock, just pull the bolt, and make this all happen.

 

[25WSM]

A normal hunting rifle will have to come out of the stock. The barrel cylinder won't clear the wood. But yes on all my target rifles I just grab the barrel and use a rear entry wrench. A simple barrel vise is just make wooden plates for a 4 or 5 inch vise and glue thick leather to it. I clean and maintenance all my rifles in that vise. And you can easy get 30 to 40 pounds with it.
Shep