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Vortex Viper HST 4-16X44 Question.

It probably would have irritated me more if I was 10 miles from the truck on a rare tag, but fortunately I was close and had another rifle. Ironically, I shot it out to 500 yards (at the range) with the broken reticle and it still tracked well enough to ring the 3MOA gongs, but I wouldn't have been comfortable using it in a hunting situation.

I guess anything can fail at any time, but like you I try to invest in good equipment to minimize failures at critical times. It probably wouldn't keep me from buying another one, but I do think you bring up a good point on taking your best equipment on the most critical hunts.
That's fair. I'm now leaning towards leaving on my lightweight rifle for more backcountry hunts and putting a Vortex on a heavier bolt gun that'll be more close range/tree stand style hunting. In those situations, it's easy to have a spare rifle "close by".
 
I've read that some optics lose zero from vibrations when driving. Have you ever experienced that?
Yes I have however it happened on a newer Burris and an older Redfield. he Redfield was at least 20 years into hard use on a 30-06 and probably had 5000 or more rounds. The zero would change just by rattling the rifle around. It was a 3 x 9 accurange/accutrack which worked wonderful once you had the drop figured out. Sent it to Redfield, (They were still in business then) and they repaired it free of charge.
 
I dont like Vortex anymore. Eye relief is not good and I dont like the field of view.
I wouldnt trade a NF for a vortex, No way. You want lighter, go with Leupold VX 3HD, Better Eye relief, which is my beef with Vortex. That little Leupold is 13 ozs, +- and a great hunting scope
 
I dont like Vortex anymore. Eye relief is not good and I dont like the field of view.
I wouldnt trade a NF for a vortex, No way. You want lighter, go with Leupold VX 3HD, Better Eye relief, which is my beef with Vortex. That little Leupold is 13 ozs, +- and a great hunting scope
Not quite sure what you mean by bad eye relief? Eye relief is set to YOU by the person installing your scope regardless of who the manufacturer is. Also keep in mind that eye relief changes when you change shooting positions. The eye relief for your rifle will be completely different in the standing position than it is in the kneeling, sitting or prone positions. As far as clarity, a lot of people who complain about clarity have not adjusted the scope focus for their eyes. When I was working at Cabela's when someone complained about lack of clarity on any of the scopes I had them adjust focus to their eyes and suddenly the clarity issue went away. All of the modern quality rifle scopes have good clarity but one has to adjust the scope to your individual eye for the best performance.
 
Not quite sure what you mean by bad eye relief? Eye relief is set to YOU by the person installing your scope regardless of who the manufacturer is. Also keep in mind that eye relief changes when you change shooting positions. The eye relief for your rifle will be completely different in the standing position than it is in the kneeling, sitting or prone positions. As far as clarity, a lot of people who complain about clarity have not adjusted the scope focus for their eyes. When I was working at Cabela's when someone complained about lack of clarity on any of the scopes I had them adjust focus to their eyes and suddenly the clarity issue went away. All of the modern quality rifle scopes have good clarity but one has to adjust the scope to your individual eye for the best performance.
Well, Call it what you want. I have 8 or 10 Vortex scopes, 8 or 10 Leupold scopes, 4- 5 nightforce, and various cheaper scopes. Vortex are the hardest to adjust to get proper Eye relief. They are very touchy on head movement. Thats all Im saying. Dont agree with it, So be it!
 
Well, Call it what you want. I have 8 or 10 Vortex scopes, 8 or 10 Leupold scopes, 4- 5 nightforce, and various cheaper scopes. Vortex are the hardest to adjust to get proper Eye relief. They are very touchy on head movement. Thats all Im saying. Dont agree with it, So be it!
Using a blanket statement like that can be somewhat misleading. What Vortex scopes are you talking about. I will agree with you to a point on the models with non-adjustable parallax where the parallax like all like scopes are set for 100 yards. As for eye relief, they are no different than any other rifle scope especially when you try to put a short scope on a long action rifle. It simply does not allow for adequate movement to adjust eye relief. Another consideration is what position you will be shooting in. Eye relief varies greatly depending upon your position. Most people sight in their rifles from a bench rest position or some variation of it, then try shooting standing, kneeling, sitting or prone and find the eye relief way off. This is a given. Different shooting positions require different eye relief, there is no one size fits all when it comes to eye relief. Set the eye relief to the position that you shoot most of the time. If you are not in that position realize that you might have to move your head a bit to get a clear reticle.
 
Teri, I think you are confusing 'fit and feel' with technical specs.
Eye relief is the distance from the scope lens to the maximum optimum exit pupil (how far away your eye should be to get the most amount of light with the most clarity) and how much you can move your head around (x/y axis) and still maintain a clear AND full view is the eye box (a realitive spec related to the dimensions of the exit pupil and how big/small it gets the closer/further away you move from optimum relief; i). The size of the exit pupil and eye box inversely changes with the magnification. A set up variation should only really result from secondary lenses (glasses) as vision should be corrected by the focus and glasses/contacts. So my optimum functional eye relief will be different than yours but will also be consistent from any one scope to another.
All this are technical specifications not an adjustable thing, even the glasses and vision.

If the spec releif is 100mm. (mm for easy math) and usable eye box is +10mm and my offset (glasses) is +5mm. My set up will be a min of 105mm with an eye box between 105-115mm releif from lens to eye and a more likely set up of 110mm from lens to eye.

The HSt 4-16x44 is 4.0in. Where YOU put the scope in relation to YOUR eye has nothing to do with the scope. The eye box if fairly generous on the HS and I assume should be the same as the HST and LR. I like the glass and functions well but I ONLY use it for hunting. I rarely, if ever, use the turrets.

A short eye relief and small eye box will put your eye lashes on the lens and you won't be able to breathe on one extreme and be able to do jumping jacks 10ft back on the other extreme.

My bausch and lomb on a mostly bench CZ 22lr/wmr/17 has a short releif (2.5-2.75in) and small ish eye box. And I like it. It's as clear as nearly anything I've seen and I like to lean into it. Would I hunt with it. F*** NO. I'd smash my glasses with very shot from my 308 (tikka so it kicks). The vortex viper HS has an eye box just short of 4in and a moderate to good eye box, great for my 308 and hunting. A vortex that came with a rifle (no idea what one, I used it as a hammer for a joke, makes a good hammer) had a relief of about 0.0001 but a massive eye box, seriously massive. Steiner gs3 releif is about +4.25in from my glasses and I can just about do jumping jacks, thats for mags.

Hold the rifle, put your face where it needs to be, move the scope to place the exit pupil as close to your eye's lens as possible (relief distance as per spec sheet of the scope) and you should be VERY close to where it needs to be.

Eye relief and exit pupil size are objective measurements. Comfort is subjective. If you like it closer or further away so be it, but the specs are the specs. Don't confuse the feel of a sports car and a tractor just because they are both Lamborghinis. And dont confuse a corvette with a mustang because they are both sports cars. Different scopes for different strokes, or something like that.

Base your choices on the specs and you'll be happier for it. Until colour comes into it. That really IS subjective.
 
Teri, I think you are confusing 'fit and feel' with technical specs.
Eye relief is the distance from the scope lens to the maximum optimum exit pupil (how far away your eye should be to get the most amount of light with the most clarity) and how much you can move your head around (x/y axis) and still maintain a clear AND full view is the eye box (a realitive spec related to the dimensions of the exit pupil and how big/small it gets the closer/further away you move from optimum relief; i). The size of the exit pupil and eye box inversely changes with the magnification. A set up variation should only really result from secondary lenses (glasses) as vision should be corrected by the focus and glasses/contacts. So my optimum functional eye relief will be different than yours but will also be consistent from any one scope to another.
All this are technical specifications not an adjustable thing, even the glasses and vision.

If the spec releif is 100mm. (mm for easy math) and usable eye box is +10mm and my offset (glasses) is +5mm. My set up will be a min of 105mm with an eye box between 105-115mm releif from lens to eye and a more likely set up of 110mm from lens to eye.

The HSt 4-16x44 is 4.0in. Where YOU put the scope in relation to YOUR eye has nothing to do with the scope. The eye box if fairly generous on the HS and I assume should be the same as the HST and LR. I like the glass and functions well but I ONLY use it for hunting. I rarely, if ever, use the turrets.

A short eye relief and small eye box will put your eye lashes on the lens and you won't be able to breathe on one extreme and be able to do jumping jacks 10ft back on the other extreme.

My bausch and lomb on a mostly bench CZ 22lr/wmr/17 has a short releif (2.5-2.75in) and small ish eye box. And I like it. It's as clear as nearly anything I've seen and I like to lean into it. Would I hunt with it. F*** NO. I'd smash my glasses with very shot from my 308 (tikka so it kicks). The vortex viper HS has an eye box just short of 4in and a moderate to good eye box, great for my 308 and hunting. A vortex that came with a rifle (no idea what one, I used it as a hammer for a joke, makes a good hammer) had a relief of about 0.0001 but a massive eye box, seriously massive. Steiner gs3 releif is about +4.25in from my glasses and I can just about do jumping jacks, thats for mags.

Hold the rifle, put your face where it needs to be, move the scope to place the exit pupil as close to your eye's lens as possible (relief distance as per spec sheet of the scope) and you should be VERY close to where it needs to be.

Eye relief and exit pupil size are objective measurements. Comfort is subjective. If you like it closer or further away so be it, but the specs are the specs. Don't confuse the feel of a sports car and a tractor just because they are both Lamborghinis. And dont confuse a corvette with a mustang because they are both sports cars. Different scopes for different strokes, or something like that.

Base your choices on the specs and you'll be happier for it. Until colour comes into it. That really IS subjective.
What you have written here is absolutely and technically correct but is nothing but a bunch of gobbledygook to the average shooter. All they want to do is bring their rifle up, center the reticle on the proper place on the critter they are pursuing and have the bullet find it's mark to cleanly dispatch said critter. The average person had little or no knowledge other than they want the scope to do what they want, when they want. You are absolutely correct saying that once eye relief is set it will not change, It is the optimum position of the relationship between the eye and scope where you get a clear and full view without any distortion. The issue is that the position of your cheek weld in relation to the eye relief changes with any change in shooting position. If you sighted the rifle in using a prone position your eye will be the closest to the ocular lens than in any other position. If the eye relief is set for a prone position it will be off for kneeling, sitting and especially standing. You will have to adjust your cheek weld to accommodate the set eye relief which make for an uncomfortable position. Ideally the eye relief should be set for the position that the shooter uses most often. A simple discussion on scopes can be found here: https://www.americanhunter.org/content/a-beginner-s-guide-to-riflescope-terminology/ This gives a person basic information on scope terminology which is the beginning of understanding how a rifle scope works.
 
Not HS-T's but I run HS LR's on all my stuff. I drive from MI to WY down miles of bumpy mountain roads with my rifle in a soft case and they hold zero just fine and tracking has always been perfect. For lightweight I've been eyeballing Leupold scopes, but I have heard some bad reports in tracking issues so you would definitely want to run a scope through the paces IMO.
 
I have had a couple and for the money, they would be fine. I never had any complaints with mine.
 
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