Videos on bedding bases and rings + new method for scope leveling

[philip140]

Hi guys, I got a new camcorder so I thought I'd show you my method of scope mounting. I go from bedding a one piece picatinny rail (actually glue in) to steel bedding the scope rings for a stress free scope/action and a new method I found for leveling the crosshairs.

Apologies, sometimes I do tend to blabber and occasionally use the words: base/rings/mounts interchangeably! Enjoy:


[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rSw3mIEDqhc]‪Weatherby video 1.wmv‬‏ - YouTube[/ame]

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JjGoR3tZ9Mg]‪Weatherby video 2.wmv‬‏ - YouTube[/ame]

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cOiOZ356vpI]‪Weatherby video 3.wmv‬‏ - YouTube[/ame]

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n3XgXz6CZNc]‪Weatherby video 4.wmv‬‏ - YouTube[/ame]

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6WQ5acp6XYA]‪Weatherby video 5.wmv‬‏ - YouTube[/ame]

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y9sml-LslDM]‪Weatherby video 6.wmv‬‏ - YouTube[/ame]

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Hi13DNzE3l8]‪Weatherby video 7.wmv‬‏ - YouTube[/ame]

Phil

 

[Eaglet]

I enjoyed watching those videos. Thanks for posting them!

I have never bedded the rings though I had been playing with the idea instead of
lapping.

Lapping does do top and bottom of the ring; you did not bed the top portions of the
rings, did you?

Nice work!

 

[philip140]

Thanks eaglet! You're right I didn't bed the top of the rings since they're pretty much self leveling and will conform to the scope quite nicely. I don't see the benefit on a .243 but it might be a good idea on heavier recoiling rifles. I may just try it when I upgrade the rings in the future, can't harm I guess.

Phil

 

[fj40mojo]

While I agree completely with the use of the machined surface of the bottom of the action as your base referance I disagree with using the verticle surface of the turret cap to compare it too. I say this because I have doubts as to the precision that goes into the manufacture of a part which is intended only to cover and protect the adjustment parts underneath. My method is to support the action on precision ground 1-2-3 blocks (a machinist set up tool) and then line the reticle up with a precision ground machinist square referenced off the same surface as the 1-2-3 blocks ie bottom of the action is in a parallel plane to your referance surface and you are alligning the reticle with a verticle line referenced off the same surface.

 

[philip140]

While I agree completely with the use of the machined surface of the bottom of the action as your base referance I disagree with using the verticle surface of the turret cap to compare it too. I say this because I have doubts as to the precision that goes into the manufacture of a part which is intended only to cover and protect the adjustment parts underneath. My method is to support the action on precision ground 1-2-3 blocks (a machinist set up tool) and then line the reticle up with a precision ground machinist square referenced off the same surface as the 1-2-3 blocks ie bottom of the action is in a parallel plane to your referance surface and you are alligning the reticle with a verticle line referenced off the same surface.

Yes, you are correct, which is why in the last video I mention that you are trusting the machining tolerances of the scope manufacturer in using this method. I'm trying this technique out for the first time and I have since had the action clamped, leveled and using a plum line confirmed that it is in fact dead nuts. Of course I could have just done that in the first place, but if I ever need to remove the scope, I can install it and level it very quickly (I am always fiddling with it, I can't leave anything alone for long).

Out of curiosity, how long is your 1-2-3 block? I'm trying to imagine how you look through your scope and level off a machinist square a few inches away, aren't they only 3'' long? Do you have a different way of doing that?

Phil

 

[fj40mojo]

Out of curiosity, how long is your 1-2-3 block? I'm trying to imagine how you look through your scope and level off a machinist square a few inches away, aren't they only 3'' long? Do you have a different way of doing that?

Phil

1"x2"x3". The action is supported on a pair of blocks, muzzle supported on a machinist jack. Square set up between my eye and the ocular lense, look through the lens and turn the scope to allign the verticle cross hair with the edge of the square. Could be done by hanging plumb bob at distance from the scope too but then you have to make sure the surface supporting the action is dead flat. By using the square everything references of the same surface.

 

[philip140]

Yes, that makes more sense now. I'm guessing you're working with a flat base receiver then? That's one of the reasons I prefer my Vanguard action over my Remington.

Phil

 

[planehunter]

Really enjoyed the videos. Great information, thanks

 

[bruce_ventura]

Latecomer here.

Nice videos. Good narration.

What happens when you change scopes? Do you need to re-bed? If so, how do you remove the bedding material?