Kmccord
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Tuning for long range
- Thread starter Alex Wheeler
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Alex Wheeler
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The crony is nice for a hunting rifle as well because different nodes act differently. Some nodes are forgiving when you break out, some the velocity will make a huge jump if you break out of the node. I dont like those for hunting and temp swings. I have found tunes that shot tiny groups but would jump 60 fps if I added .5 of a grain of powder. I wont use a load like that.
I like this approach. Last load I developed I started with two loads. One ~0.012" jammed and one ~0.010" jump. 3 shots at each bullet seating depth. The 0.010" jump was notably better on paper.
We all know that being into versus off the lands causes large changes in MV, and many times significant changes in precision. Which are some reasons I went this way, chronographing while shooting.
Then continue load development with the better of the two seating depths...
Alex Wheeler
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post#5
Don A Parsons
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I totally agree with you Wheeler,,, the old turning fellow up our way kinda thinks the same way.
Find those nodes first, that way we know the barrel will be "closest" to its faverible whip or less aggressive vibration of the tuning folk idea.
Then he'd play with the seating depth after.
Once it was all said and done on the magic load he'd throw in a few different primers for chits & giggles,,, he said 3 things are going to happen doing this.
Your going to get the same results, the group down range will smart'en up or things are going to fall apart.
But that's was just his take on finding the magic.
My next range day will be 600M with 3 tall targets on the calmest of days and the one where I can relax to get at it.
3 cartrages from middle starting point to max in 0.5 gr spread like you suggested.
Target 1, 2, and 3 with the three middle ground loads.
Then repeat this with the next and so on up to the point of stick bolt hand lift.
Watching primers for sure.
I'll you'd mentioned,,, don't worry about the right to left as we are more interested in finding the "Flat" water line as you call it.
We do this with our FTR rifles.
I do my heavy bore Harvesting rifle the same way.
My plan in life it to burn out as many barrels as I can since it falls into the category of "Good Times."
Glad to share a small fraction on this as even I am game to learn something new.
Old dogs like to bark once in while. LOL
Western Canada Don
Find those nodes first, that way we know the barrel will be "closest" to its faverible whip or less aggressive vibration of the tuning folk idea.
Then he'd play with the seating depth after.
Once it was all said and done on the magic load he'd throw in a few different primers for chits & giggles,,, he said 3 things are going to happen doing this.
Your going to get the same results, the group down range will smart'en up or things are going to fall apart.
But that's was just his take on finding the magic.
My next range day will be 600M with 3 tall targets on the calmest of days and the one where I can relax to get at it.
3 cartrages from middle starting point to max in 0.5 gr spread like you suggested.
Target 1, 2, and 3 with the three middle ground loads.
Then repeat this with the next and so on up to the point of stick bolt hand lift.
Watching primers for sure.
I'll you'd mentioned,,, don't worry about the right to left as we are more interested in finding the "Flat" water line as you call it.
We do this with our FTR rifles.
I do my heavy bore Harvesting rifle the same way.
My plan in life it to burn out as many barrels as I can since it falls into the category of "Good Times."
Glad to share a small fraction on this as even I am game to learn something new.
Old dogs like to bark once in while. LOL
Western Canada Don
Great to see you over here on LRH sharing your knowledge. I've been reading your posts and watching your videos on AS for along while. You'll have these guys over here shooting 6BRAI's soon! 
I don't know how you find the extra time to share your experience on the shooting forums, but I am thankful for it! God bless you!
I don't know how you find the extra time to share your experience on the shooting forums, but I am thankful for it! God bless you!xarcher
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mpayne
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jlvandersnick
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great thread. tagging in
Matthappens
Active Member
I am curious why you said this. Do nothing to the inside of your necks other than brush with a stiff nylon brush, do NOT remove the carbon from inside your necks.
Wouldn't your ES be more if you are getting different friction from within the neck? some necks having more carbon than others being almost free of carbon.
Wouldn't your ES be more if you are getting different friction from within the neck? some necks having more carbon than others being almost free of carbon.
I'll let Alex give you his answer but for me, I get more even seating pressure by just running a nylon brush in the neck. The last thing I want is a bare inside neck to seat bullets into. I don't tumble or sonic clean brass. I spin some 0000 steel wool on the outside of the neck and shoulder, clean the primer pockets with a Sinclair primer pocket uniformer, wipe off and resize. I'm guessing another reason to leave the carbon inside is to prevent "cold welding" of the bullet to the he cartridge case. I also anneal bit that's a subject all in itself.
Matthappens
Active Member
Does the buildup of carbon on the inside of the case start to change your ES after loading them many times? Also how many times do you reload a standard say 300win mag? I do the same as you with the steel wool but also tumble and use isopropanol just on the neck area but maybe I should try a different approach.
