Trying the SwitchLug

Prieto9000

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I bought a switchlug to see if it works as advertised. I built a 6.5 GAP 4S and a 28 Nosler on a 700 Ti Action. Barrels are: 6.5mm 1:8 Proof and a 7mm 1:8 Bartlein.
I´ll bed it tomorrow an maybe try it next week. I used a Manners EH-1 for it.
 

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I don't see the point of the screw on top of the recoil lug....... if the recoil lug is already pinned to the action face why does it need the screw on top?

The lug is pinned so that when you take off the barrel and install the new one its in the exact same alignment as it was when the smith chambered the barrel if you are torqueing it to the same spec as he did.
 
I don't see the point of the screw on top of the recoil lug....... if the recoil lug is already pinned to the action face why does it need the screw on top?

The lug is pinned so that when you take off the barrel and install the new one its in the exact same alignment as it was when the smith chambered the barrel if you are torqueing it to the same spec as he did.

The barrel is only hand tight. The screw takes the place of torquing the barrel.
 
I bought a switchlug to see if it works as advertised. I built a 6.5 GAP 4S and a 28 Nosler on a 700 Ti Action. Barrels are: 6.5mm 1:8 Proof and a 7mm 1:8 Bartlein.
I´ll bed it tomorrow an maybe try it next week. I used a Manners EH-1 for it.

Clayton is a very innovative gunsmith. He showed me a switch barrel rig he had just finished, when I was picking up my build. I would have set that rifle up with the SwitchLug, had I had known more about it, at the time. Please keep us informed of your results.
 
this is how it looks like. I need to cut a little bit of the picatinny rail because the recoil lug gets in the way.
I´d like to turn down the break on the 28 Nosler Barrel, but I´m a little afraid it won´t work as expected. It is a Big caliber burning a lot of powder.
 

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A little heads up about turning the brake down. I have done some recoil slide testing with different brakes. I can guarantee you a thicker wall brake works better than a thinner wall brake. A brake with angled back ports works better than a brake with perpendicular ports or front angled ports.
 
Well, I've been passing on reading this thread. For some reason today I decided it was time to find out what was up.

Dang, I'm impressed.

I have 2 switch barrel bench rest rifles. Based on the old AMT V-Block action. They use a lot of parts to achieve the desired result.

I may have to give this a try. The idea of one screw appeal to me greatly. Gonna take some fancy foot work though.
 
This is a great and simple concept. I have asked them about making one for larger actions, was told maybe.
I have two barrels for a .375 Snipetac; one is a lighter contour 30" with 1-10 twist that I would use for hunting with the 375 grain Chinchagas I just got in, and the other is a heavier contour 36"+ 1-8 twist that I would like to use the higher BC Cutting Edge projectiles for ELR target/comp.
 
I've tried it and the barrel stucked. Y don't know if it was because it was still a little warm or what. Before going to the range I switched the barrels 3-4 times without any problems, but after firing 5 rounds and letting the rifle rest for 3-4 minutes I tried to change the barrels and it was impossible. I had to use a barrel vise and an action wrench to remove the barrel. I'll let it cool down a little more next time I try it. I was using the 6.5 GAP proof barrel.
 
the barrel probably just worked a touch tighter when firing, I have two rifles I switch barrels with and I like the way this looks :)
 
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