Truck Tires on a Trailer?

I 've got an older goodyear that looks like The op s on one of my trailers rite now. It was fine when I pulled it last and went to hook up the other day and it was separating. Cooper tires are made in the USA as well.
Was that a trailer or a truck tire? How old was it?
I get that tires don't last forever, but 2-3 years and then pull them off because they may explode? Really???
I'm going with decent truck tires on my trailers until experience tells me otherwise.

Thanks for all the replies. It's always good to hear it from those with experience, instead of just the guy who stands to make a few bucks.
 
OP, they look like heat separated the tread at the chords-- I'd those were steel belted it looks to me like the steel belts overheated.

If it overheated, it was due to something in the tire. I check for hot wheel bearings at every fuel stop, and on this trip I only had maybe 50 miles from where I put them on until I camped. On the return trip, I went maybe 30 miles before pulling in for fuel and a check on things.
It was late September, so cooler weather, and I didnt run but maybe 60-65 the whole way home.
Air pressure was also checked before the trip, again when I had the bad tire replaced at a tire shop maybe 50-60 miles into the trip, and again before I started home.

I have put on probably a hundred thousand miles or more pulling trailers of different sizes and shapes, but I have never seen a tire that appeared to be in perfect shape, was aired to specs, not overloaded, not pulled hard across the desert, etc separate the tread the way this one did.

I'm going back to truck tires.
 
Not sure how old the tire is. At least several years old and a few thousand miles on it. I like to pull truck tires off when they are starting to get a little low on tread and mount them on trailers that don't get pulled a lot.Of course this isn't as easy now that all the newer trucks have 17s and up for tires. I have several trailers but only a couple get pulled a lot. I would go broke if I had to replace them all every couple of years.
it was a 15 inch trailer tire. Has made a few trips back and forth from west to central Tx.
 
Last edited:
Radial cord failure usually happens from under inflation, the cords flex more when there is not enough air to support it and they work harden just like a piece of wire. Those failures are usually father up the sidewall though. The picture looks more like a cap separation. It's rare on virgin tires but I suppose on cheap tires nothing's impossible.
 
I run truck tires on my horse trailers, mainly my hunting/mountain trailer. Most ranchers in my country do the same. Never had an issue, they last longer and I get hardlyflats. When I ran trailer tires seems like I was buyers by at least one new one every few months
 
Trailer tires are like a black hole on what to choose at times. If it is an older trailer that was designed for bias tires and not radial you have to be extremely careful in a decision to replace bias with radial. Typically older trailers that have bias tires were designed with much stiffer suspensions that require heavier sidewall ratings plus tougher materials to manage trailer sway safely. Radials are not constructed to manage this type of sidewall sway and can accentuate trailer sway as we all know ain't fun at high speed. Bias tires perform the best at max air ratings since the trailer was designed for that as well. The biggest reasons that bias trailer tires come apart is their speed rating which virtually nobody looks at all. Bias tires can have a max speed rating of 65mph and if you pull at higher speeds they will heat up and bad things can happen. Look at the sidewall to determine if the tire has a max speed rating and understand if you exceed it it is not designed for the higher speed. Furthermore if you are towing in hot conditions, the tire can also heat up faster even at the rated speed. Stopping periodically to let tires cool will extend life and keep them from peeling apart. Trailer tires do have limitations that are not even remotely close to passenger tires. If a bias tire is underinflated, it will heat up even faster at over speed or hot environmental conditions. The air temp is lower than the concrete or asphalt road temp so bear that in mind as well.

There are possible radial options that I have heard that might work and usually they are LT rated radial tires which are most costly but do have stiffer sidewalls to help on trailer sway. I have a 4500# rated dual axle boat trailer built in 1989 with bias tires that I contacted manufacturer to see if I could switch and they said absolutely not based upon the suspension of my trailer. It has a jointed tag axle suspension that requires bias tires to work properly. It hauls my boat perfectly without any issues at all. I haul my boat 20-25 times a year fishing up and down the Lake Michigan coast for salmon so it does see a lot of highway. One way to improve bias trailer tire life is go up in tire size if you have fender space, typically it will increase load rating as well and pull nicer.

I also have a travel trailer with radials that pulls nicely with them but clearly was designed to do so.

The points I hope everyone takes is bias tires have a speed rating, keep them inflated at psi listed and check psi before using every time, older trailers are designed for bias due to suspensions, road temp can affect bias tire integrity, radials have softer sidewalls for ride and can adversely affect older bias tire designed trailer handling and bias tires can be safe if managed as bias tires.

I have been trailering all sorts of trailers (boats, 8 horse, travel trailers, flat beds, box trailers etc.) for over 50+ years and have never had a tire failure except when I hit road debris kicked into me. It just takes a willingness to accept the limitations of bias tires and work with them as they are designed.
 
Very good points on LT tires.
After this all happened last fall, I bought a set of top of the line trailer tires. They are radials, and they market them as "all steel", but they are still made in China.
With the price tag of those tires (around $175 ea mounted), I started looking at the truck tires.
I recently bought a set of USA made Load Range E Coopers for about that same price for one of my pickups, so that's what I'm going with on the horse trailer too. I've also got a fifth wheel needing shoes, and it'll probably get the same.
Like I said earlier, until I see a need to switch back to trailer tires it's going to be LT tires on all my trailers. To me, the complete lack of quality in "trailer only" tires just isn't worth the headache.
Thanks for all the responses, everyone!
 
Trailer tires are like a black hole on what to choose at times. If it is an older trailer that was designed for bias tires and not radial you have to be extremely careful in a decision to replace bias with radial. Typically older trailers that have bias tires were designed with much stiffer suspensions that require heavier sidewall ratings plus tougher materials to manage trailer sway safely. Radials are not constructed to manage this type of sidewall sway and can accentuate trailer sway as we all know ain't fun at high speed. Bias tires perform the best at max air ratings since the trailer was designed for that as well. The biggest reasons that bias trailer tires come apart is their speed rating which virtually nobody looks at all. Bias tires can have a max speed rating of 65mph and if you pull at higher speeds they will heat up and bad things can happen. Look at the sidewall to determine if the tire has a max speed rating and understand if you exceed it it is not designed for the higher speed. Furthermore if you are towing in hot conditions, the tire can also heat up faster even at the rated speed. Stopping periodically to let tires cool will extend life and keep them from peeling apart. Trailer tires do have limitations that are not even remotely close to passenger tires. If a bias tire is underinflated, it will heat up even faster at over speed or hot environmental conditions. The air temp is lower than the concrete or asphalt road temp so bear that in mind as well.

There are possible radial options that I have heard that might work and usually they are LT rated radial tires which are most costly but do have stiffer sidewalls to help on trailer sway. I have a 4500# rated dual axle boat trailer built in 1989 with bias tires that I contacted manufacturer to see if I could switch and they said absolutely not based upon the suspension of my trailer. It has a jointed tag axle suspension that requires bias tires to work properly. It hauls my boat perfectly without any issues at all. I haul my boat 20-25 times a year fishing up and down the Lake Michigan coast for salmon so it does see a lot of highway. One way to improve bias trailer tire life is go up in tire size if you have fender space, typically it will increase load rating as well and pull nicer.

I also have a travel trailer with radials that pulls nicely with them but clearly was designed to do so.

The points I hope everyone takes is bias tires have a speed rating, keep them inflated at psi listed and check psi before using every time, older trailers are designed for bias due to suspensions, road temp can affect bias tire integrity, radials have softer sidewalls for ride and can adversely affect older bias tire designed trailer handling and bias tires can be safe if managed as bias tires.

I have been trailering all sorts of trailers (boats, 8 horse, travel trailers, flat beds, box trailers etc.) for over 50+ years and have never had a tire failure except when I hit road debris kicked into me. It just takes a willingness to accept the limitations of bias tires and work with them as they are designed.
Exactly what I found out on my quad trailer with "trailer tires". Speed rating on those" grenades" were a measly 62 mph. I blew up 4 sets over the years I had it. Found Maxxis tires speed rated at 102 mph. That was key for me as I never had early failures again.
 
https://www.tirerack.com/tires/tiretech/techpage.jsp?techid=219

Although I'd already made up my mind on the subject, I thought I'd post this. It has some very useful information about using truck or passenger car tires on trailers.

It has a lot of good information, but basically says that ST and LT tires can safely carry their full load rating when used on trailers, but with P-metric tires you must reduce the load by 9% of its' rated capacity.

One other thing I found interesting is where it says that most trailer tires are rated for only 65 mph. Our two lane roads are mostly 70, so that eliminates the trailer tires right off the bat.
 
Torsion axles are horrible! Yes, use only trailer tires on a trailer! If it's just around the house then it won't make any difference.
 
Warning! This thread is more than 4 years ago old.
It's likely that no further discussion is required, in which case we recommend starting a new thread. If however you feel your response is required you can still do so.
Top