I have a Browning-A bolt and after hunting with it over the years I have noticed some creep in my trigger. I'm trying to decide should I replace it with a new trigger or can this problem be corrected? And if replacing it is the way to go should I put another browning trigger in it or go with something different?? But I don't want to spend big money. Thanks In advance.
Trigger creep
- Thread starter hunter9pt
- Start date
Help Support Long Range Hunting Forum
LaHunter
Well-Known Member
Cleaning it could solve the problem. Flushing the whole trigger assembly with Ronsinol lighter fluid is what some aftermarket trigger manufacturers recommend. This will leave a light / dry lubricating film as well. If replacing I would look at Timney & Trigger Tech. I have both of these and both work well for me
Lefty38-55
Well-Known Member
Also lookie here, already posted on LRH ... Tiney makes 'spring kits' for the A Bolts that work:
www.longrangehunting.com
Browning A-bolt trigger adjustment help
I have a browning 7mm-08 and the factory trigger needs some help. I use jewel triggers in my remingtons but I'm not sure they make a jewel for the browning A-bolt. Can someone give me pointers to adjust a factory trigger. Thanks elkslayerjc
gohring3006
Well-Known Member
I polished then tumbled a AR trigger in hex boron nitride for 8 hours. HUGE difference
Grizzly60
Well-Known Member
My A-bolt had a heavy pull from factory. I put the 2.5 from the kit, and it made a world of difference.
No creep and is a lil under 1.5 lb
No creep and is a lil under 1.5 lb
WildRose
Well-Known Member
Trigger "creep" is any actual movement of the trigger after it engages the sear before the release is felt.
It's a function of the thickness of the "notch" in which the two interlock.
The only things you can really do to change it is to smooth it out with honing and polishing or it can be reduced by filing away some of that thickness.
It's there as a safety feature to help prevent accidental release of the trigger.
Some fully adjustable triggers can be set to minimize that distance and generally have smoother engagement surfaces so the trigger operates and breaks more cleanly than the factory trigger but, don't over do it or you're going to end up with an unsafe trigger.
I know lots of us like to "do it ourselves" here but unless you really know what you're doing you're always going to be best off by letting a qualified, competent gunsmith do your trigger work or replacements for you.
It's a function of the thickness of the "notch" in which the two interlock.
The only things you can really do to change it is to smooth it out with honing and polishing or it can be reduced by filing away some of that thickness.
It's there as a safety feature to help prevent accidental release of the trigger.
Some fully adjustable triggers can be set to minimize that distance and generally have smoother engagement surfaces so the trigger operates and breaks more cleanly than the factory trigger but, don't over do it or you're going to end up with an unsafe trigger.
I know lots of us like to "do it ourselves" here but unless you really know what you're doing you're always going to be best off by letting a qualified, competent gunsmith do your trigger work or replacements for you.
Grizzly60
Well-Known Member
Spot on
Flintlock shooter
Well-Known Member
Read the last sentence from WildRose post above again. Very good advise Sir! This applies in life to a lot more than triggers!!!
I had an accidental discharge several years ago on a gun a buddy of mine and I did a trigger job on. The gun fired when someone accidentally knocked the safety off in a truck (stupid I know). The bullet went through the cab at the top of the rear window and shattered the window throwing glass shards into my buddy's AR forearm, face and arm ( he was sitting on the tool box while we were driving around a farm groundhog hunting).
This was the last loaded gun inn a vehicle for me, and the last trigger job ever. Literally and enter to from dying. A couple dollars sure isn't worth that.
This was the last loaded gun inn a vehicle for me, and the last trigger job ever. Literally and enter to from dying. A couple dollars sure isn't worth that.
Good advice. I choose Trigger Tech and also use lighter fluid.
Your query piked my interest simply because I bought an AB3 last year. Good triggers are one of my pet peeves and reasons why, since I purchase firearms out of the box is why I don;t buy from many manufacturers. I never gave the trigger pull on the AB3 any thought from the time I dry fired it before I bought it until now. It has had some 200+ rounds fired through it so it is somewhat broken in. I went down to my gun vault and pulled it out then to the shop where I checked the trigger pull out. Using the finger method paying close attention to how it broke I found it broke cleanly without any perceived creep. The trigger pull gauge showed a clean break between 3 and 3 1/4 pounds. That is a bit heavier than my Winchester Model 70's or Tikka T3x which break between 2 and 2 1/4 pounds (Best one can do with a spring type gauge) Based on this, I would also suggest giving your current trigger a good cleaning and lube with a good synthetic lubricant and see if that doesn't help. A new AB3 trigger is $5.00 Code: Code No. B357048001 at Midwest Gun Works https://www.midwestgunworks.com/browning-a-bolt-3/parts.html#/perpage:48 For $5.00 plus shipping its worth a try if cleaning yours up doesn't work, Otherwise a new Timney, which I could only find for the X Bolt is $174.95. I would contact Timney direct 1-866-484-6639 to check compatibility with the AB3 before ordering one.
