Too much camo?

[sxsandoval]

View attachment 119569
TG, I used this pad in the pic on the bat and sponge on the AR hand guard. The pad could not get in the tight spots on the hand guard very well.

Here's a sponge similar to what I've used before. Turns out with a rougher looking texture that looks good.

https://m.lowes.com/pd/Signature-Colors-Faux-Finish-Paint-Sponge/1094441

 

[Jeff R]

Definitely don't skimp on your clear coat. I haven't used some of the ones mentioned above, but I did try a couple of different camo patterns on hard plastic cases several years ago for a proof of concept. In both instances, I used a clear coat spray paint (I don't recall the brand but it was whatever was on the shelf at Home Depot). The paint held up fairly well, but you can see in the pictures where some of it got scraped off. Both of these items were heavily used/shipped and seemed to do okay, but I wish I would have chosen a much tougher clear coat. For those who might be interested, the Desert Digital was 4 colors and the Multicam was 7 colors.

 

[one3]

Looks good to me , too How were you able to get that effect?

 

[Trb696]

I tip I got from an auto body friend that pai ts plastic body parts. To keep paint from chipping off when painting fiberglass/plastic/Tupperware stocks, use an "Adhesion Promoter". Any Oriellys etc should have it in a rattle can. This makes a STRONG and FLEXIBLE bond to the substrate and prevents the hard topcoat camo colors and clear from chipping off. Camo doesn't have to be a Micheal Angelo. It's just meant to break-up the outline of an object. Think tigers, raccoons, deer, lizards, fish, snakes. They don't have leaf, twig and branch patterns! I personally wear any pattern and different for hat, jacket, pants, gun, bow. If you wear all the same, the camo itself develops an outline. Just keep greens when in green, browns in brown and white in white. I shake my head when I see glam hunters NEEDING all "Mossy Oak" or "Real Tree" or whatever... The masters of old hunted in red PLAID or Furs!!! MY humble 2c...

 

[Jeff R]

I used an x-acto knife and cut templates out of a 12 pack Coke carton. I probably used 3 cartons total for each pattern. I also cut out patterns on lots of blue painters tape that I moved around during the painting. Here are several pictures from the project during the actual painting. Overall, I was pleased with the results.

 

[Cfshooter]

Try Testors Dullcote as your topcoat/clear. It's a matte finish and it's held up awesome on my .17HMR! (bottom rifle, top is a B/C factory finish)

They look good! I will look up the Testers. Ty.

 

[Cfshooter]

For a clear coat, check out southern hydrographics on amazon. They have gloss and flat versions. It's basically an automotive grade clear coat in a can that has uv protection.

Thanks WW. That is what I currently have in my "cart". I will order some and sample it.

 

[Cfshooter]

I tip I got from an auto body friend that pai ts plastic body parts. To keep paint from chipping off when painting fiberglass/plastic/Tupperware stocks, use an "Adhesion Promoter". Any Oriellys etc should have it in a rattle can. This makes a STRONG and FLEXIBLE bond to the substrate and prevents the hard topcoat camo colors and clear from chipping off. Camo doesn't have to be a Micheal Angelo. It's just meant to break-up the outline of an object. Think tigers, raccoons, deer, lizards, fish, snakes. They don't have leaf, twig and branch patterns! I personally wear any pattern and different for hat, jacket, pants, gun, bow. If you wear all the same, the camo itself develops an outline. Just keep greens when in green, browns in brown and white in white. I shake my head when I see glam hunters NEEDING all "Mossy Oak" or "Real Tree" or whatever... The masters of old hunted in red PLAID or Furs!!! MY humble 2c...

Great tips Trb.

 

[Cfshooter]

I used an x-acto knife and cut templates out of a 12 pack Coke carton. I probably used 3 cartons total for each pattern. I also cut out patterns on lots of blue painters tape that I moved around during the painting. Here are several pictures from the project during the actual painting. Overall, I was pleased with the results.
View attachment 119621View attachment 119622View attachment 119623View attachment 119624View attachment 119625View attachment 119626View attachment 119627View attachment 119628View attachment 119629

That looks great!

 

[Alibiiv]

For a clear coat, check out southern hydrographics on amazon. They have gloss and flat versions. It's basically an automotive grade clear coat in a can that has uv protection.

On one of my rifles, I used a "flat" clear coat for coating aluminum wheels on motor vehicles, and it has held up well. I now that it sounds crazy, but it was the only "flat" clear that I could find. I bought it at an Auto Zone or Auto Palace.

 

[Cfshooter]

On one of my rifles, I used a "flat" clear coat for coating aluminum wheels on motor vehicles, and it has held up well. I now that it sounds crazy, but it was the only "flat" clear that I could find. I bought it at an Auto Zone or Auto Palace.

I actually already have some of clear wheel spray. It holds up great on wheels for sure.

 

[Canuck308]

First time painting a rifle. Krylon rattle can paint job. Used stencils, mesh and netting. Overall happy with the result. Do NOT skimp on prepping the surface to clean it (alcohol, then brake cleaner worked well)

 

[Cfshooter]

First time painting a rifle. Krylon rattle can paint job. Used stencils, mesh and netting. Overall happy with the result. Do NOT skimp on prepping the surface to clean it (alcohol, then brake cleaner worked well)

Very nice, minus the maple leaf!

 

[skipglo]

Thanks dok, will do. It is currently with the smith, but should have it done by the end of next week. Still trying to figure out what clear coat to put over it also.

Careful on the clear coat...some will reflect like a mirror... I would think Satin Coat...but it's just me