To shim or not to shim

[Rflshootr]

You could always put the amount of shim you want under the extreme front of the base and then bed the base to the action. And btw, MOA bases aren't always exact. It doesn't take much to change a couple of MOA.

 

[yorke-1]

I'll second the Burris signature rings. I use them on a bunch of different guns and I've never had a scope slip.

 

[jdyoung]

Did you start off with your scope reticle absolutely centered ? With the scope on highest power, place a mirror against the objective lens / front . Look in the scope and if the reticle is centered, you will see one combined reticle. If the reticle is not centered, you sill see two reticles. One centered that does not move, the other moveable and its positions will be indicative of the adjustment you have entered through the turrets.

 

[Blackhawk]

1. You can't lower the scope because the bell will hit the barrel and it is already too close IMO. Scope tubes bend and flex under recoil. You also want enough room for a scope cap of some sort. Its a pain when they don't fit because the bell is almost touching the barrel.

2. Lowering the scope won't help anyway, changing the mount angle will.

3. Leaving the reticle in the extreme so that you can just get on target at 200yds is a bad idea. The reticle should be near the center of its adjustment. That's why 1,000 yd shooters started using the 20moa bases in the first place.

4. A 10moa base (of the same height or higher) would solve the problem but would not get you to extreme ranges if that's important.

5. Burris Signature rings would definitely solve the problem. They have many different size inserts and you could custom tailor the angle to your liking and change it at will. Inserts can be used to raise and/or lower either end of the scope with NO CHANCE of binding the scope tube if installed properly. Note - they should always be installed with mated halves. If you need instructions look on youtube. Scopes slipping in the inserts should not be an issue. I have them on rifles in 300RUM and 338RUM, both of which are shooting maximum loads without issue.

6. Shimming rings is an inherently bad idea and I wouldn't shim the base either.

Just my 2 cents. I hope it helps.

 

[Blackhawk]

Are you certain the scope is OK. If you were still 2" high after adjusting the elevation in the scope, and you started out 2" high before adjusting, something must be wrong with the scope. The elevation never moved!

Scope is just fine!

 

[Blackhawk]

1. You can't lower the scope because the bell will hit the barrel and it is already too close IMO. Scope tubes bend and flex under recoil. You also want enough room for a scope cap of some sort. Its a pain when they don't fit because the bell is almost touching the barrel.

2. Lowering the scope won't help anyway, changing the mount angle will.

3. Leaving the reticle in the extreme so that you can just get on target at 200yds is a bad idea. The reticle should be near the center of its adjustment. That's why 1,000 yd shooters started using the 20moa bases in the first place.

4. A 10moa base (of the same height or higher) would solve the problem but would not get you to extreme ranges if that's important.

5. Burris Signature rings would definitely solve the problem. They have many different size inserts and you could custom tailor the angle to your liking and change it at will. Inserts can be used to raise and/or lower either end of the scope with NO CHANCE of binding the scope tube if installed properly. Note - they should always be installed with mated halves. If you need instructions look on youtube. Scopes slipping in the inserts should not be an issue. I have them on rifles in 300RUM and 338RUM, both of which are shooting maximum loads without issue.

6. Shimming rings is an inherently bad idea and I wouldn't shim the base either.

Just my 2 cents. I hope it helps.

Thank You for your reply!

 

[Blackhawk]

Did you start off with your scope reticle absolutely centered ? With the scope on highest power, place a mirror against the objective lens / front . Look in the scope and if the reticle is centered, you will see one combined reticle. If the reticle is not centered, you sill see two reticles. One centered that does not move, the other moveable and its positions will be indicative of the adjustment you have entered through the turrets.

I have never encountered the complete bottoming out of the elevation knob during any load development before . This is a new one on me but not an unheard of condition. After being enlightened as to the benefits gained by using Burris Signature Z Rings ( something that I've never even contemplated before )I have taken the liberty of ordering a set from Midway.
In that vein I will track my elevation as well as my windage back to a zero and reset my scope onto the rifle using these rings and start the process all over again.
Again Thank You for your Input!

 

[Varmint Hunter]

You will need a set of inserts that are not zero. I'm not sure what comes with the rings currently although I just ordered another set. Always use them in a matched set, ie: +10 with a -10, +5 with a -5 and so on. People fail to do that all the time.
The rear of your scope is just lifted too much by the 20moa base. Try using a set with the + number under the front of the scope and the corresponding minus on the top of the front ring. Or you could lower the back by using a minus under the scope and the corresponding plus on top.

Good luck

 

[Blackhawk]

You will need a set of inserts that are not zero. I'm not sure what comes with the rings currently although I just ordered another set. Always use them in a matched set, ie: +10 with a -10, +5 with a -5 and so on. People fail to do that all the time.
The rear of your scope is just lifted too much by the 20moa base. Try using a set with the + number under the front of the scope and the corresponding minus on the top of the front ring. Or you could lower the back by using a minus under the scope and the corresponding plus on top.

Good luck

You have enlightened me with your wisdom.
I want to Thank You for your insight !

 

[Blackhawk]

What zero are you trying to achieve ?

Working to obtain a 0 reference at 100 yards
Rehash:
This is strictly in the load development faze as due to a powder shortage of Alliant RL-22 I had to switch to Hodgdon H 4350. With the Hodgdon's powder my POI at 100 Yards was now 2.000"high and my Nikon Monarch Scopes elevation knob is now .bottomed out, but was shooting sub 1/2" MOA @100yards with the Alliant Powder.
Note I removed my scope and re-tensioned it back to Zero, on both the Elevation and Windage turrets,
I ordered sat set of High Burris Z rings and ordered the + -.005"', + - .010", & + - .020 supplemental insert set.
I now must start my process all over again.
Thanks for Asking,& yeah I could have left my Nikon Monarch Scope alone my elevation was bottomed out, and that is not correct as I would not have been able to properly adjust for anything longer than 200 yards, so I need to come up with a solution and I thank the forum members for their input.