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Tikka short mag conundrum

I recently grabbed a beautiful Tikka Laminate stainless T3x chambered in .270 WSM. It was an Internet buy, and so I didn't put my hands on it before purchasing. 270 WSM brass is hard to come by and expensive where you happen to find it. I got the rifle, and it's beautiful. And LIGHT! I'm not really recoil shy, but the older I get, the more fragile my shoulder seems to be. I have a 7mm Rem Mag in Sauer 100 wearing German Tupperware that I won't go back in the same room with until it gets restocked with a Boyd's Heritage Monte Carlo after the beating it put on me last range outing. The Tikka is 24.3' on the barrel and has the standard 1:10 twist. Don't get me wrong - I like light, and I like powerful. I don't like evaluating my collarbone for breaks.

I did some looking. Let me back up and say I like the gun. I've wanted the T3x Laminate Stainless for a long time and the price just keeps climbing! Now that I have one... I did some research. We know there are pre-fits and all sorts of stuff for the T3x out there now. I found a couple of prefits: 1 is a satin stainless very much like the factory barrel. Factory contour, 24", but fluted (even lighter) and twisted 1:7.5 and chambered in 6.8 Western. The Western holds roughly 4 grains less powder than the WSM, but will shoot heavier bullets, so any recoil savings with the small powder reduction is negated. This configuration will have MORE recoil! But I've wanted to try the 6.8, just not in a factory gun with factory ammo (Winchester only?). It's a drop-in fit, color matches, and it's a fluted match aftermarket barrel like all the cool kids shoot! No brass available, however. Not sure I'd want it if it were. This would be a situation where I'd perform barrel break-in with 20 rounds of factory ammo and then reload having some decent formed brass onhand. New Winchester bass is bad enough generally, that it needs fire forming anyway. Is the Western on its way out already?? May make my recoil issue worse, but I might put up with it for an uber accurate 6.8 Western!

Option 2: I ran across is an aftermarket match quality barrel chambered in the same .270 WSM. Factory contour. No flutes, solid barrel, but here's the caveats: it's 20" long (lighter), bigger at the muzzle to accommodate a 5/8x24 pitch brake. AHA! Recoil issue solved! Twisted 1:8, so I can shoot most any .277" bullet. So here are my concerns: it's Cerakoted black. I'd have a black barrel and stainless action unless I had the action coated. 2nd, and most importantly, wouldn't cutting 4.3" off the factory length pretty much leave me with the same performance as a standard .270 Win with 24" pipe?? I could shoot a broader range of bullets and the little 20" barrel would be a dream climbing a tree with!

Or C, should I just keep the factory barrel and forget it? Assuming it shoots well and doesn't stomp me like a mad horse. Obviously it would depend on how well the facrory barrel shot, I guess, but I'd be foregoing a few perks.

I guess another option is to keep the factory barrel and get one of the others to switch to depending on terrain and game. Was going to sell the factory tube, but Tikka barrels are the cheapest out there/bring the least money on resale. Even less than Savage. If you didn't know this, it's completely true according to the Gospel of Me. Sold lots of factory barrels!

I'm already geared up to load the WSM. Would need dies for the Western.

So assuming the factory barrel gets about 1 MOA accuracy... which way would you guys go?

As much as the Western intrigues me, I'm leaning toward the short, fast twist WSM with break ability.
I bought the same gun in 300WSM some years ago, love it but the same thing my shoulder stopped loving it with age, so last year I ordered a custom muzzle brake from Grizzly in Canada it tamed it rite down, I shot 64 rounds from it last week during 1 outing and an earlier outing 70+, no problem. it was around $200 to my door. well worth it. The gun is a kitten now and a pleasure to shoot.
 
So I just had the same conundrum with my Win Mod 70 300 WSM. I could take the recoil, but was trying to get my rifle to better stay on target for follow up shots. I installed a B&C stock with a Pacmyer decelerator butt pad. This cleaned up my groups, but the muzzle jump was still more than I desired. So, I found a decent smith, threaded my barrel, and installed an AREA 419 brake. Boom (pun intended), this solved all my problems. Now my rifle has felt recoil somewhere in between a .223 and a .308. Very fun to shoot, and it's easy to stay on target for follow up shots. Yes, it's loud…wear ear pro.

That's what I did and it worked for me. In the end I didn't need to get the stock. If I didn't get the stock, this would have been a couple hundred dollar fix. Also, I'm all set if I ever decide to jump into suppressed shooting.
 
Sounds like my experience with the T3 Lite in 9.3x62!! OUCH! I probably put 100 rounds through that thing trying to get it to group MOA or less. Wasn't far off, but could never quote make it. It was pretty brutal, though. I thought the Mauser chambering would be superior to the .35 Whelen. It was NOT!
Yep I was getting around 3030 fps out of those 180 grain partitions, but what a kick. The Vais brake is the style with a lot of small holes, not the artillery piece big baffle style, so it is supposed to not be as loud; it's still pretty noisy but the rifle is a joy to shoot with it. That Tikka shoots well under an inch with it.
 

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I'm 77 years old and as I get older, my rifles get lighter -- as I no longer want to carry the weight! ! I have a Tikka X3 in 270 WSM and don't find the recoil bad at all! I've developed loads for it in 110 Barnes TSX Tipped, 130 Hornady SST, 140 gr Hornady SST and 140 gr Barnes TSX Tipped and 150 gr Sierra SPBT -- and I've also tried several different types of powders in each bullet! So you see -- I've shot it a LOT off the bench and the recoil is a non-issue for me! Mine shoots the 110 Barnes, the 140 gr Hornady SST and the Sierra 150 gr the best using H-1000 with all 3 shot groups being 3/4 inch or smaller. The 110 Barnes being the best at 1/2 inch or smaller going 3460 fps using my chronograph!
I also had a Kimber Montana in 270 WSM and loved the rifle but with the exception of the 110 Barnes (which it shot 1/2 inch or smaller groups as well) I couldn't get the same accuracy with other bullet weights -- and the rifle was heavier than the Tikka -- so I sold the Kimber!
I harvested a mule deer a couple of years ago at about 150 yards using the Tikka and 110 gr Barnes TSX -- and I never found the bullet as it went straight through the shoulder and exited the far side!
 
By the way! -- I read several posts about installing a muzzle brake. I had a brake installed on a Ruger M-77 in .338 Win Mag that I had and I'll never, ever do that again! It was so ear splitting loud I was afraid to hunt with it! It did help with the violent recoil of the 338 but at the advice of my gunsmith, I had the brake removed and then re-stocked the rifle with a Pacific Research stock (no longer made) and the new stock reduced the felt recoil more than the brake did!
 
By the way! -- I read several posts about installing a muzzle brake. I had a brake installed on a Ruger M-77 in .338 Win Mag that I had and I'll never, ever do that again! It was so ear splitting loud I was afraid to hunt with it! It did help with the violent recoil of the 338 but at the advice of my gunsmith, I had the brake removed and then re-stocked the rifle with a Pacific Research stock (no longer made) and the new stock reduced the felt recoil more than the brake did!
Suppressor. Much better than a brake.
 
If the factory barrel does well, it will get a brake in the Spring. If it does stupid good, it won't be touched! Like Mr. Crockett12 said above, I, too, have some loads for this cartridge with 110gr TTSX. Somebody mentioned Hammer lightweights I have 117gr onhand for my 270 SDC wildcat.

Y'all reckon what kind of speed I'd get from the .270 WSM with 20" barrel running 170gr EOLs with an ample dollop of StaBall HD?? How much speed loss from a 24" barrel, you think?
 
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