Tikka actions

People want to fix **** that's not broken, the lugs work fine on sako trgs in conditions harsher than most civs will ever see.

They are more bind resistant than most custom 700 offerings and cycle fast as snot. Plus a good trigger from the factory. I like them.

Biggest problem is they employee the hulk to put the barrels on them. I've got one in a vise now beating on it whenever I get the chance. It'll come off eventually
My son, Cut, a Groove in Bbl's SHANK about, .050 in Front of Action with, a Hacksaw, Filed Flats on Barrel and,....
it SPUN,.. Right ,.. OFF !
New PROOF 7 PRC barrel, is Due, any Day now, he bought a couple of, .300 Win Mag Magazines, opened up, Bolt Face and a longer Bolt Stop,.. DONE !
We just ADD,. Trigger Springs, Adjustable Cheek Risers, LimbSaver Pads to our Tikka's and,.. Choot Em' !
 
My smith won't mess with them much either because he said he'd rather cut that wonky bevel on the receiver back and use a standard recoil lug...which gets into recutting the lug inlet in stock as well.
WHY would, a "Smith" mess with, them ?? There's practically NOTHING that, the "Average guy" can't Modify, on a Tikka at, very Little, Expense !
G Smiths NEED to,.. Make Money and working on Tikka's, DOESN'T, "get it done" for, THEM.
IF you look, in the Dictionary, under Money PIT,.. you will Find,. Remington 700, Listed,.. FIRST.
I have, 2 old Remington 700's and THREE,.. New Tikka's
 
WHY would, a "Smith" mess with, them ?? There's practically NOTHING that, the "Average guy" can't Modify, on a Tikka at, very Little, Expense !
G Smiths NEED to,.. Make Money and working on Tikka's, DOESN'T, "get it done" for, THEM.
IF you look, in the Dictionary, under Money PIT,.. you will Find,. Remington 700, Listed,.. FIRST.
I have, 2 old Remington 700's and THREE,.. New Tikka's
The rifle smith I was referring to works on Remington 700's and custom clones only.

He has NO bad words for Tikka!
He actually says they are very good.

He is meticulous as hell and just doesn't want to re-tool.
He is set up for Rem and clones only and has enough work with those builds.
Rifle building is his second job.

He mostly builds competitive bench rifles but will do hunting builds for a few customers.
I'm ok with that and would have to seek another smith to remove this barrel if I can't get it off.

I'll try the flipped wheeler trick!
Thanks for the information!
 
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No flip the side that has the v notch and you have 2 flat sides
How far off the end of the receiver (tenon area) do you clamp down the two flat sided wheeler wrench?
It seems like it would put uneven stress on opposite side flats and bind the threads?
Also… do you set up at 90 degrees to an upright receiver as not to touch the top rail?

I've been lucky on my previous Tikka with the rear entry but this one is a tiger!

Any additional information would be helpful.

Thanks
 
Well if you're going top bottom you have the spot picked for you as the flat part on the button is up front be the recoil lug.



In the comments chase says to make sure not to be too far back so you don't twist/damage the reciever. I've also seen online not to overly tighten the wrench as someone has squished the action from overtorquing the wrench. Plus, you're squeezing the barrel threads if you do that and that's not gonna help anything lol
 
I did mine recently with factory barrel. I did it as close as possible. Maybe 1/4" from end of receiver.

Took about a 2' breaker bar.

1677252019578.jpeg
 
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That wrench is putting a lot of stress on that action. I set mine up that way. Put as much force as i felt safe with and it wasn't enough. I used a parting tool in the lathe. It came right off after that
 
Fill a cylinder full Kroil. Several day before you plan on pulling the barrel. Strip the action. Drop the action down in the cylinder full of Kroil, so the Kroil level is slightly above the recoil lug. Let it soak for a couple days. Then break the barrel free.
 
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